Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Hi! guy's can anyone recomend a good underbody treatment. I want to do my 98 wagons underneath which is in good nick and I don't know whats best to use these days either a wax or stone chip. I've got a compressor to help getting it on. Cheers Steve.

poolio74

Bilt hamber products are the best around for that job mate.

Go on there website and see what stuff suits the job at hand

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Post 97.

https://www.scoobynet.com/997840-my-...type-ra-4.html

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

I've got my on on their cavity wax and I've seen the 3m and Dinitrol stuff and the good old waxoyl and I think the wax may be the way to go over the underbody seal/stonechip/shultz. Just want to see what gets recomended the most.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Are you happy with the Dynax fella it's scored well in a 3 year classic MG test I read earlier.
How much do you think would be needed to do the underneath and inside the doors and panels. Cheers Steve.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Steve,

It comes with a lance for getting into cavities. It covers really well but depends on how much of a layer you want. The cans are 750ml and I have used very little on the arches.

The underside would be a different scenario, dependant on us and road conditions.

quattroowner

iTrader: (5)

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-ru...html?limit=all

Remove as much original paint and underseal as possible.

Cavity wax inside chassis rail's and sill's
1- 2 layers Etch primer
Seam sealer everywhere required
3-4 layers of Por15
2 - 3 of tie primer
2 - 3 layer's of rubberized coating

Complete..

Thats what im using just now, It's brilliant stuff. Can be sprayed over as well to match paint work ( Just use preferred paint colour compared to the Rubberized coating )

I probably spent near £350 on all that and brushes, sandpaper, wire wheels,masks.

Probably the best £350 i could of spent IMHO

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Thanks mate, going to order 3 cans from Opie over the weekend, I've already got Deox gel and Hydrate 80. I have 2 small spots of corrosion on the chassis to treat and I'm adding 2mm strenghtening plates to the jacking points and boxing the rear arb brackets and then I'm going to wax it. If I need more I'll order more after.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

That'll be a propper job fella just ain't got that kind of coin to throw at it and it would be overkill on mine. I used Por 15 on the screens grip rail last week after grinding all the rust back and treating it with Hydrate 80, it's very good paint and dries fast to.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Another vote for Bilt Hamber's Dynax range here. I'm currently using loads of it on a van I've just bought and really rate it.

It was beaten by a couple of other products in 'Classics Monthly' magazine's three year test last year:

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...lcne-JHDp2Af1Q

but I've been using it since 2006 and can see no reason to change. I do try to top it up every couple of years though.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Thanks mate Dynax is what I'm going to use, cheers.

poolio74

Hang on a minute, you said waxoyl was crap!!

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

In my experience (a lot longer than three years), it is.

poolio74

I agree mate, especially the black waxoyl. That stuff has dried out with rust coming through after 6 months!!

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

I've had that problem with their unbody seal on other cars that's why I asked whats best to use. Another reason when ever I've used waxoyl spray cans I've always had them clog, spit and never fully empty even when I've stood the cans in hot water before use, that may be just my bad look. My cans of Dynax are now on the way and can't wait to start.

poolio74

Prepare to get it all over you!

I usually need hosing down

just me

iTrader: (3)

Where exactly do you put this undersealing stuff?

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Depends on the product but generally the chassis, wheel wells, inner doors and panels etc to protect the car anywhere you can to stop rust.