What's the best Underbody Chassis treatment.
Hi! guy's can anyone recomend a good underbody treatment. I want to do my 98 wagons underneath which is in good nick and I don't know whats best to use these days either a wax or stone chip. I've got a compressor to help getting it on. Cheers Steve.
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Bilt hamber products are the best around for that job mate.
Go on there website and see what stuff suits the job at hand:thumb: |
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Originally Posted by poolio74
(Post 11396057)
Bilt hamber products are the best around for that job mate.
Go on there website and see what stuff suits the job at hand:thumb: |
Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
(Post 11396072)
How much do you think would be needed to do the underneath and inside the doors and panels. Cheers Steve.:thumb: |
Originally Posted by Firez34
(Post 11396112)
Are you happy with the Dynax fella it's scored well in a 3 year classic MG test I read earlier.
How much do you think would be needed to do the underneath and inside the doors and panels. Cheers Steve.:thumb: It comes with a lance for getting into cavities. It covers really well but depends on how much of a layer you want. The cans are 750ml and I have used very little on the arches. The underside would be a different scenario, dependant on us and road conditions. |
http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-ru...html?limit=all
Remove as much original paint and underseal as possible. Cavity wax inside chassis rail's and sill's 1- 2 layers Etch primer Seam sealer everywhere required 3-4 layers of Por15 2 - 3 of tie primer 2 - 3 layer's of rubberized coating Complete.. Thats what im using just now, It's brilliant stuff. Can be sprayed over as well to match paint work ( Just use preferred paint colour compared to the Rubberized coating ) I probably spent near £350 on all that and brushes, sandpaper, wire wheels,masks. Probably the best £350 i could of spent IMHO |
Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
(Post 11396117)
Steve,
It comes with a lance for getting into cavities. It covers really well but depends on how much of a layer you want. The cans are 750ml and I have used very little on the arches. The underside would be a different scenario, dependant on us and road conditions. |
Originally Posted by quattroowner
(Post 11396184)
http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-ru...html?limit=all
Remove as much original paint and underseal as possible. Cavity wax inside chassis rail's and sill's 1- 2 layers Etch primer Seam sealer everywhere required 3-4 layers of Por15 2 - 3 of tie primer 2 - 3 layer's of rubberized coating Complete.. Thats what im using just now, It's brilliant stuff. Can be sprayed over as well to match paint work ( Just use preferred paint colour compared to the Rubberized coating ) I probably spent near £350 on all that and brushes, sandpaper, wire wheels,masks. Probably the best £350 i could of spent IMHO |
Another vote for Bilt Hamber's Dynax range here. I'm currently using loads of it on a van I've just bought and really rate it.
It was beaten by a couple of other products in 'Classics Monthly' magazine's three year test last year: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...lcne-JHDp2Af1Q but I've been using it since 2006 and can see no reason to change. I do try to top it up every couple of years though. |
Originally Posted by Osimabu
(Post 11396333)
Another vote for Bilt Hamber's Dynax range here. I'm currently using loads of it on a van I've just bought and really rate it.
It was beaten by a couple of other products in 'Classics Monthly' magazine's three year test last year: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...lcne-JHDp2Af1Q but I've been using it since 2006 and can see no reason to change. I do try to top it up every couple of years though. |
Originally Posted by Osimabu
(Post 11396333)
Another vote for Bilt Hamber's Dynax range here. I'm currently using loads of it on a van I've just bought and really rate it.
It was beaten by a couple of other products in 'Classics Monthly' magazine's three year test last year: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...lcne-JHDp2Af1Q but I've been using it since 2006 and can see no reason to change. I do try to top it up every couple of years though. |
In my experience (a lot longer than three years), it is.
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I agree mate, especially the black waxoyl. That stuff has dried out with rust coming through after 6 months!!
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Originally Posted by poolio74
(Post 11397203)
I agree mate, especially the black waxoyl. That stuff has dried out with rust coming through after 6 months!!
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Originally Posted by Firez34
(Post 11397219)
I've had that problem with their unbody seal on other cars that's why I asked whats best to use. Another reason when ever I've used waxoyl spray cans I've always had them clog, spit and never fully empty even when I've stood the cans in hot water before use, that may be just my bad look. My cans of Dynax are now on the way and can't wait to start.
I usually need hosing down:lol1: |
Where exactly do you put this undersealing stuff?
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Originally Posted by just me
(Post 11398038)
Where exactly do you put this undersealing stuff?
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