Jacking car with trolley jack?
#1
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Jacking car with trolley jack?
I am going to remove the rusty U brace under my bug but
only have a trolley jack. Where is the best place to jack the
car?
Does anyone have a under car pic showing the brace?
only have a trolley jack. Where is the best place to jack the
car?
Does anyone have a under car pic showing the brace?
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When I said where to jack the car I meant other than the
actual jack points as I don't want to flatten the seams at
said points.
Also, what's the best place to put jack stands?
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One option is...but no good as you need it tomorrow...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-pad...-/261424568128
Stands - Wishbone will be fine for the amount of time it's in the air
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-pad...-/261424568128
Stands - Wishbone will be fine for the amount of time it's in the air
#7
My sill jacking points are totally rooted.
I use wishbones on the front to jack and would probably use the rear/chassis end of them if I was to place a stand.
I'd probably stick a couple of tyres under the sills as well if working under the car.
Belt and braces approach for me.
I use wishbones on the front to jack and would probably use the rear/chassis end of them if I was to place a stand.
I'd probably stick a couple of tyres under the sills as well if working under the car.
Belt and braces approach for me.
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How many bolts hold the plastic undertray in place
as I am struggling to get it off?
I removed three at the front but seems there is one hidden
away near the rear centre of the tray but can't see it.
as I am struggling to get it off?
I removed three at the front but seems there is one hidden
away near the rear centre of the tray but can't see it.
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#12
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+1
Anyone who bothers to look at the owner's manual...or download the workshop manual will know this. Hell, its even on Autodata (which is often poo).
The front trolley jack point is on the front subframe behind the sump (need a low profile jack to get under the bumper though). The rear is the diff.
Using a trolley jack on the sills will bend the seams if not used with a sill adapter. It should only be jacked by the sill using an adapter, the vehicle jack or a 2post lift (which spreads the load so they don't get damaged).
Last edited by ALi-B; 20 March 2014 at 02:35 PM.
#13
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Always use my trolley jack in the normal sill points, never flattened a sill. They are rock solid.
Wouldn't be so sure about jacking on the diff. Have done this once or twice with some wood on the jack head to spread the load, but always a bum clenching moment as you don't want to crack the diff casing.
Once up in the air you must put axle stands ander the bottom arm chassis points (or somewhere else solid).
Wouldn't be so sure about jacking on the diff. Have done this once or twice with some wood on the jack head to spread the load, but always a bum clenching moment as you don't want to crack the diff casing.
Once up in the air you must put axle stands ander the bottom arm chassis points (or somewhere else solid).
#14
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I do what the manual states.
This is what typically happens when using a unadapated trolley jack on the sills (note the irony that photograph taker is still using a trolley jack!):
Unless it has a pad that's in good condition. Most jacking pads fall to peices after 20 or so uses.
This is what typically happens when using a unadapated trolley jack on the sills (note the irony that photograph taker is still using a trolley jack!):
Unless it has a pad that's in good condition. Most jacking pads fall to peices after 20 or so uses.
Last edited by ALi-B; 20 March 2014 at 02:46 PM.
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Well I struggled and swore and bled but no matter what I was
unable to remove the brace as all but one of the nuts was
solidly in place(in the pouring rain).
**** it, if it fails the test I think I may just get rid as it is costing
more and more and I have only had it since end of December and
it seems to be problem after problem.
unable to remove the brace as all but one of the nuts was
solidly in place(in the pouring rain).
**** it, if it fails the test I think I may just get rid as it is costing
more and more and I have only had it since end of December and
it seems to be problem after problem.
Last edited by Raptorman; 20 March 2014 at 06:09 PM.
#16
I use the scissor jack at the front to get it up enough .Stick a 75x75 block under the tyre .Then use the low level trolley jack with a piece a wood on lifting cup and raise the car using the horseshoe/sub frame .Then piece of wood in between axle stand and horseshoe/sub frame .Back wise under the diff and axle stands either under trailing arms or diff support arm fixing ie near to sill
That sill will straighten up with a few movements of a shifter/adjustable
That sill will straighten up with a few movements of a shifter/adjustable
#20
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Doesn't sound like a problem worth worrying about to me matey, get the car jacked up you can tell by looking which points will be strong enough etc and if you've not snapped the bolt that's got you stuck you're not trying hard enough! There is not a single bolt on a car that won't crack off with a power bar unless it's your missus using the spanners?
Get it sorted lad!
I must be lucky with the place I use for mots.
Mick
Get it sorted lad!
I must be lucky with the place I use for mots.
Mick
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