98 Type R Road / Track
28 August 2010, 07:28 PM
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98 Type R Road / Track
Afternoon all.
I bought my type-r from a forum member, about 2 months ago. I thought the car would stay as it was, how wrong was I!!
Here it is the day after, covered with welsh flies:
Then all cleaned up:
I bought my type-r from a forum member, about 2 months ago. I thought the car would stay as it was, how wrong was I!!
Here it is the day after, covered with welsh flies:
Then all cleaned up:
28 August 2010, 07:29 PM
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The first thing I noticed was that under hard cornering, it would suffer from fuel surge when the tank was 1/4 or so full. The obvious solution was to fit a swirl pot.
The hardest part for this was chosing where to mount it all. Initially I wanted to stick the pump beside the spare wheel well on the underside of the car because it was rather loud when dry-run. I decided not to initially, just to test how loud it would be once the seats were back in place. Luckily the car came fitted with a rear brace connecting the suspension turrets to the diff, so I was able to mount the tank on a bracket off the mounts fot this, pictured here:
The part to the right of the swirl pot is a secondary fuel filter, to protect the second fuel pump which is hidden just out of sight. I decided to use a walbro 255 external in-line pump with a 12mm inlet and 8mm outlet. The feed to the swirl pot uses a 12mm push on connector and the rest are 8mm, to match that which the car has as standard. Also replaced standard fuel filter st same time, no telling when it might have been changed last (if ever):
The seconed problem I encountered was that one of the fuel lines connected directly to the tank had a plastic connector to a plastic fuel line. This meant that I wasn't able to plumb in my new fuel lines onto it as it was too small. To get around this, I replaced the entire plastic fuel line with the new fuel line, running directly to the swirl pot.
As the fuel lines are now within the boot, ordinary hose would not do as it permeates fuel, so I ordered marine grade fuel lines which are heavily regulated (you can't have fuel vapours leaking into a boat!) as this way I retain flexibility which the stainless braided alternatives don't offer. The inner diameter is still 8mm (or 12mm for the fuel pump feed) but has a much alrger outer diameter to cater for the extra sheidling.
Luckily the fuel pump is almost inaudible above the sound of the engine, so I was able to keep it in the boot rather than under the car, which would have involved a lot more work.
The hardest part for this was chosing where to mount it all. Initially I wanted to stick the pump beside the spare wheel well on the underside of the car because it was rather loud when dry-run. I decided not to initially, just to test how loud it would be once the seats were back in place. Luckily the car came fitted with a rear brace connecting the suspension turrets to the diff, so I was able to mount the tank on a bracket off the mounts fot this, pictured here:
The part to the right of the swirl pot is a secondary fuel filter, to protect the second fuel pump which is hidden just out of sight. I decided to use a walbro 255 external in-line pump with a 12mm inlet and 8mm outlet. The feed to the swirl pot uses a 12mm push on connector and the rest are 8mm, to match that which the car has as standard. Also replaced standard fuel filter st same time, no telling when it might have been changed last (if ever):
The seconed problem I encountered was that one of the fuel lines connected directly to the tank had a plastic connector to a plastic fuel line. This meant that I wasn't able to plumb in my new fuel lines onto it as it was too small. To get around this, I replaced the entire plastic fuel line with the new fuel line, running directly to the swirl pot.
As the fuel lines are now within the boot, ordinary hose would not do as it permeates fuel, so I ordered marine grade fuel lines which are heavily regulated (you can't have fuel vapours leaking into a boat!) as this way I retain flexibility which the stainless braided alternatives don't offer. The inner diameter is still 8mm (or 12mm for the fuel pump feed) but has a much alrger outer diameter to cater for the extra sheidling.
Luckily the fuel pump is almost inaudible above the sound of the engine, so I was able to keep it in the boot rather than under the car, which would have involved a lot more work.
Last edited by JamesWalker; 28 August 2010 at 07:43 PM.
28 August 2010, 07:59 PM
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At the same time as the fuel surge issue, I had a slight feeling that the problem could have equally been boost control related. I fitted a boost gauge with a record feature so that I could pull through all the gears and observe what the behavior was like. 1.2 bar through gears 1-3 and 1.3 bar through gears 4-5. Possibly slightly too high, so I cleaned the entire BC system. Parts sprawled out in the garden:
Since installing the swirl pot ans cleaning boost control, there have been no surges or fuel cuts (not even sure there were any fuel cuts to begin with) so all is good!
The next task on my list is an ongoing mini project that I have been working on. I come from an electronics background, so I thought I would make my own shift light. Here are the parts before:
And after:
The principle is using an LM2917N-8 frequency to voltage converter as used by most commercial tachos then driving 4 comparators each set with a unique voltage each, which represent which gear to change at. This will give me a sequential 4 LED output, for a fraction of the cost of a real sequential shift light.
The first attempt shown above did not work as expected (suprise suprise) the comparator used was misbehaving badly and the F to V converter was not functoning at all. A new comparator saw a fix there. As for the f-V, turns out that in a small app note in the datasheet, it requires a signal which fluctuates below GND to trigger a pulse, for the frequency input. This is because the input is driving a comparator within the IC.
The ignition signal I am tapping from (directly from the ECU, ignition signals 1 and 2) is 0-3.7V rather than -V to +V, so to get around this I rased the GND to 0.1V as a kind of bodge, so that the ignition signal now drives the IC properly. This is what the new circuit looks like, with the old circuit on the right:
A problem still existed though, the LEDs would flicker lightly sub 1k revs, so when idling. When above 1k RPM, the LEDs would turn off as expected and only illuminate when they should. Currently set at 3.5k and 4k, just using 2 for test purposes. Eventually they will be between 7.5k and 8.2k. A potential fix for this is to filter the ignition signal below 10Hz or so, to get rid of the low rpm flicker. I also added a buffer so that any current this additional circuit may draw from the ignition signal, will not affect the cars performance. This is how the circuit looks now:
Will post an update once more developments happen!
Since installing the swirl pot ans cleaning boost control, there have been no surges or fuel cuts (not even sure there were any fuel cuts to begin with) so all is good!
The next task on my list is an ongoing mini project that I have been working on. I come from an electronics background, so I thought I would make my own shift light. Here are the parts before:
And after:
The principle is using an LM2917N-8 frequency to voltage converter as used by most commercial tachos then driving 4 comparators each set with a unique voltage each, which represent which gear to change at. This will give me a sequential 4 LED output, for a fraction of the cost of a real sequential shift light.
The first attempt shown above did not work as expected (suprise suprise) the comparator used was misbehaving badly and the F to V converter was not functoning at all. A new comparator saw a fix there. As for the f-V, turns out that in a small app note in the datasheet, it requires a signal which fluctuates below GND to trigger a pulse, for the frequency input. This is because the input is driving a comparator within the IC.
The ignition signal I am tapping from (directly from the ECU, ignition signals 1 and 2) is 0-3.7V rather than -V to +V, so to get around this I rased the GND to 0.1V as a kind of bodge, so that the ignition signal now drives the IC properly. This is what the new circuit looks like, with the old circuit on the right:
A problem still existed though, the LEDs would flicker lightly sub 1k revs, so when idling. When above 1k RPM, the LEDs would turn off as expected and only illuminate when they should. Currently set at 3.5k and 4k, just using 2 for test purposes. Eventually they will be between 7.5k and 8.2k. A potential fix for this is to filter the ignition signal below 10Hz or so, to get rid of the low rpm flicker. I also added a buffer so that any current this additional circuit may draw from the ignition signal, will not affect the cars performance. This is how the circuit looks now:
Will post an update once more developments happen!
28 August 2010, 08:02 PM
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I ordered a brake master cylinder stopper last week and fitted it. Not really much difference when driving on the road as the pedal doesn't tend to go beyond 50% travel, but under hard braking, feels more rigid now. Pics installed:
Last edited by JamesWalker; 09 September 2010 at 07:40 PM.
30 August 2010, 09:33 PM
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Thanks,
Well I have continued development on the shift light today, tested the buffer, smoothed the lm2917 output to smooth it off because the ignition signal is rather dirty really, causing tiny blips in the output. I also reduced the output by 10% (only about 0.1V or so) as my potential divider ranges sit better in range this way. I could have just modified the 4 dividers, but it was easier to just tamper with the output. I didn't even need to add a high pass filter to remove the small LED flickers. Result!
The shift light now works very well, though there is 1 small problem which I will leave for now. Let's say the LED is set to shift at 7,500 rpm, it will actually turn on at appx 7,450 and work its brightness up to max brightness at 7,500 rpm. This happens so fast that under normal use it will never be noticed. If I happen to be accelerating VERY slowly between 7,450 and 7,500, it would be annoying, but that almost never happens in real life, if ever. I am a perfectionist so I will inevitably fix this issue eventually. Here it is in its current state:
I need to box it up and then decide how to mount the LED's. Possibly add brightness control based on ambient light levels, so it doesn't blind me at night. Thats the beauty of making it yourself, any additional features can easily be added!
On a side note, the first of my suspension upgrades have arrived:
Well I have continued development on the shift light today, tested the buffer, smoothed the lm2917 output to smooth it off because the ignition signal is rather dirty really, causing tiny blips in the output. I also reduced the output by 10% (only about 0.1V or so) as my potential divider ranges sit better in range this way. I could have just modified the 4 dividers, but it was easier to just tamper with the output. I didn't even need to add a high pass filter to remove the small LED flickers. Result!
The shift light now works very well, though there is 1 small problem which I will leave for now. Let's say the LED is set to shift at 7,500 rpm, it will actually turn on at appx 7,450 and work its brightness up to max brightness at 7,500 rpm. This happens so fast that under normal use it will never be noticed. If I happen to be accelerating VERY slowly between 7,450 and 7,500, it would be annoying, but that almost never happens in real life, if ever. I am a perfectionist so I will inevitably fix this issue eventually. Here it is in its current state:
I need to box it up and then decide how to mount the LED's. Possibly add brightness control based on ambient light levels, so it doesn't blind me at night. Thats the beauty of making it yourself, any additional features can easily be added!
On a side note, the first of my suspension upgrades have arrived:
01 September 2010, 01:07 PM
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01 September 2010, 06:04 PM
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You never know!! I am in the middle of drawing up some schematics, even going to design a PCB layout and see how much it will cost to get a PCB made (primarily for myself) A group buy wouldn't be a million miles away!! Though a shift light isn't exactly hard to buy as it is. Future plans include making it wireless (LED module talking wirelessly to the transmitter), full RGB LED colour output and possibly a lot more outputs, almost a gradient of colour, F1 style.
Here is my messy sketch, with a real schematic to follow:
Here is my messy sketch, with a real schematic to follow:
09 September 2010, 07:32 PM
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OK so I have now received half of my suspension / chassis upgrade parts, namely: camber adjust bolts, ALK, 22mm rear ARB, poly outrigger bushings and still to arrive: rear diff plate, beatrush diff plate, beatrush pitch mount.
First, I fit the ARB. Was a right PITA to remove. The studs would just rotate in their cups, as I have the metal ball joint style drop links. Here is the car in the air for easy access:
Then an image of the standard 20mm rear ARB as it came from factory:
Note, the rear anti static strip has now been removed. Weight saving of 300g? Jackpot! I better not get electrocuted now...
Here is the new ARB awaiting installation:
Once I figured out that to undo the drop link nuts, the stud had to be locked using an allen key. Easy when you know how! Anyway, an easy installation as it should have been:
So next for the outrigger bushings:
Instructions stated to fit the smaller 10mm bush inside of the larger 10mm bush and install that on top, then use the 4mm bush underneath. This meant that I had to flatten the 3 tangs on the large washer on top of the subframe, but I read elsewhere that others have done the same, so shouldn't be an issue. Here it is installed:
And highlighting a "random" rubber mounted metal ball on the rear subframe between the outrigger bushes and the diff:
I took the liberty to waxoil all components before reinstallation, as I plan to use the car over the winter. Next to fit the ALK and wait for the rest of the components to arrive!
First, I fit the ARB. Was a right PITA to remove. The studs would just rotate in their cups, as I have the metal ball joint style drop links. Here is the car in the air for easy access:
Then an image of the standard 20mm rear ARB as it came from factory:
Note, the rear anti static strip has now been removed. Weight saving of 300g? Jackpot! I better not get electrocuted now...
Here is the new ARB awaiting installation:
Once I figured out that to undo the drop link nuts, the stud had to be locked using an allen key. Easy when you know how! Anyway, an easy installation as it should have been:
So next for the outrigger bushings:
Instructions stated to fit the smaller 10mm bush inside of the larger 10mm bush and install that on top, then use the 4mm bush underneath. This meant that I had to flatten the 3 tangs on the large washer on top of the subframe, but I read elsewhere that others have done the same, so shouldn't be an issue. Here it is installed:
And highlighting a "random" rubber mounted metal ball on the rear subframe between the outrigger bushes and the diff:
I took the liberty to waxoil all components before reinstallation, as I plan to use the car over the winter. Next to fit the ALK and wait for the rest of the components to arrive!
Last edited by JamesWalker; 09 September 2010 at 07:38 PM.
11 September 2010, 08:20 PM
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OK so i started today off by removing the "random metal parts" from the rear subframe. They are apparently to reduce vibrations and were fitted as part of a recall. Vibrations arent of concern so off they come:
Next to replace the pitch mount. Here is the IC removed:
And the old pitch mount removed:
Here the old vs new can be compared and contrasted:
Then the new part installed:
Engine bay post installation:
That was a very short write up because there really was nothing to it. The most annoying part was reinstalling the IC as it has to clear the strut brace while fitting the 2 silicone hoses to the turbo and throttle body.
While the IC was off, I had a good inspection of the TB. I was set out to clean it but it was in perfect condition, with nothing for me to clean!!
Next to fit the ALK. I only managed to take 1 picture before the rain started so here it is, the old rear wishbone mount removed:
Next to replace the pitch mount. Here is the IC removed:
And the old pitch mount removed:
Here the old vs new can be compared and contrasted:
Then the new part installed:
Engine bay post installation:
That was a very short write up because there really was nothing to it. The most annoying part was reinstalling the IC as it has to clear the strut brace while fitting the 2 silicone hoses to the turbo and throttle body.
While the IC was off, I had a good inspection of the TB. I was set out to clean it but it was in perfect condition, with nothing for me to clean!!
Next to fit the ALK. I only managed to take 1 picture before the rain started so here it is, the old rear wishbone mount removed:
Last edited by JamesWalker; 11 September 2010 at 08:24 PM.
19 September 2010, 03:09 PM
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Im actually after a second set of alloys, for use with winter tyres.
Anyway, today I fitted this lovely new CDF pulley:
Installation was as straightforward as you would imagine. Removed shrouds / belts / fans then with the car in 5th and brakes applied, the pulley bolt came to. Here is the naked bay:
And the finished product:
I can't comment on what difference it has made as I havn't even fired it up yet!
Anyway, today I fitted this lovely new CDF pulley:
Installation was as straightforward as you would imagine. Removed shrouds / belts / fans then with the car in 5th and brakes applied, the pulley bolt came to. Here is the naked bay:
And the finished product:
I can't comment on what difference it has made as I havn't even fired it up yet!
19 September 2010, 05:55 PM
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21 September 2010, 07:37 PM
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I took it out for a test spin (despite it not being finished) and i would say NVH has increased by maybe 5% only. This was with poly front wishbone bushes, stiffer arb with poly bushes, poly outrigger bushes and the solid pitch mount. To be fair, the car was pretty solid anyway - all bushes were in very good condition and this isn't a high mileage car. I am suprised that the increase was so little though, barely any difference at all. Of course the "elastic band" or jerkiness when driving around slowly has almost been 100% removed, should be entirely removed once I fit the beatrush diff brace. I imagine then the NVH will increase somewhat.
As soon as I can source an R180 diff cover, it will be back on the road!
As soon as I can source an R180 diff cover, it will be back on the road!
Last edited by JamesWalker; 21 September 2010 at 09:27 PM.
21 September 2010, 09:28 PM
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This has done 70k dry miles (no rust whatsoever) so I will be shocked if you don't see any improvements!!!
I just need to fit some solid engine mounts, because it doesn't vibrate enough
I just need to fit some solid engine mounts, because it doesn't vibrate enough
01 October 2010, 07:22 PM
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Had a busy (last) weekend, the R180 still hasn't arrived so I decided 3.5 weeks without one was too much, so I took mine off and went to the local welder to completely seal where the lower oil filler bung sits. This is what it looks like after giving the man a tenner:
Looks beautiful! I have a new R180 cover on order, so when the oil needs changing next (2 years probably) then I will change the cover at the same time. For now, it does the job and it does it well!
It was getting late in the day before I was able to refit the cover, so this is how it sat overnight, all snug:
And the pretty LSD internals:
Now that the cover had been fitted, time to fit that rear diff brace I have had sat on my desk for over a month!
Then onto some hardcore winterproofing for snow driving. Waxoyl the entire underside and all arches. Everything exposed to the elements will get the treatment. Prep for spraying:
And after:
Disgusting stuff, but necessary none the less.
As for this weekend, I have started project screamer pipe, inspired by this thread here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...amer-pipe.html
The difference being, mine will be valve controlled i.e. I can enable or disable it based on a controller I will write myself. I will also be able to adjust the volume depending on how loud it is and how loud I want it to be. The valve has arrived as part of a titanium motorcycle link pipe and I have a divorced downpipe which it will be mated with. In preparation for this, I need to check how much spare I have where the downpipe sits, as to where I can fit the valve. To do this, the turbo heat shield has to come off. This evening I managed 6 of the 7 bolts which secures it, but the last requires access to the underside of the car. Will continue tomorrow...
Looks beautiful! I have a new R180 cover on order, so when the oil needs changing next (2 years probably) then I will change the cover at the same time. For now, it does the job and it does it well!
It was getting late in the day before I was able to refit the cover, so this is how it sat overnight, all snug:
And the pretty LSD internals:
Now that the cover had been fitted, time to fit that rear diff brace I have had sat on my desk for over a month!
Then onto some hardcore winterproofing for snow driving. Waxoyl the entire underside and all arches. Everything exposed to the elements will get the treatment. Prep for spraying:
And after:
Disgusting stuff, but necessary none the less.
As for this weekend, I have started project screamer pipe, inspired by this thread here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...amer-pipe.html
The difference being, mine will be valve controlled i.e. I can enable or disable it based on a controller I will write myself. I will also be able to adjust the volume depending on how loud it is and how loud I want it to be. The valve has arrived as part of a titanium motorcycle link pipe and I have a divorced downpipe which it will be mated with. In preparation for this, I need to check how much spare I have where the downpipe sits, as to where I can fit the valve. To do this, the turbo heat shield has to come off. This evening I managed 6 of the 7 bolts which secures it, but the last requires access to the underside of the car. Will continue tomorrow...
02 October 2010, 03:52 PM
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I just had the car aligned over at subaru4u in Newbury (my local specialist) and they did a good job of a bad situation! Initially, the front camber was ~3.5* and toe in at 5mm. This was promptly corrected to -2.3* camber and 1mm toe. I wanted -1.5* camber at the front buy my japanese struts are designed to run high camber, so -2.3* was the best that could be achieved. Not the end of the world, but not great for my commute of 52 miles 
The rears were a bit better, -0.8* camber both sides so they were left alone and 1mm toe in. Car drives much better now, no more slight pull to the left! £58 well spent.
Well we were blessed with a morning of no rain, so I made the most. Now that I have the downpipe and exhaust valve, I needed to make sure that there was room for it all in the engine bay. The hardest part of the whole process so far has been removing the OEM turbo heat shield. 7 bolts later...
There is no way that is going back on! Time to order a turbo blanket so I never have to fiddle around with impossibly awkward bolts again. Shall be ordering through harvey, he has a good rep.
Naked engine bay, again:
Out with the old downpipe and cat, here it is sat beside the new downpipe:
Luckily the cat is rather large, so I can hopefully fit the valve beside where the cat sat. Just out of interest I weighed both downpipes and founf the old one to be 9.3kg and the new one (including exhaust valve) was 5.4kg. 4kg saving, not too bad!
Heres another look at the new divorced downpipe, made by magnex:
It is a single tube bent to shape, rather than a welded pipe design. Should help with exhaust gas flow. Strange how the flanges are steel but the rest is stainless...
Anyway, here is the titanium exhaust valve. In case any of you are going to attempt the same thing, the GSXR-1000 K2 exhaust valve is the one to go for (as pictured) as it is so very light! If you want a steel version, go for the GSXR-1000 K1 exhaust valve / link pipe.
The servo which controls the valve position looks like this:
I will write my own PIC controller to control its position. This will let me shut it off if I want to be civilised or tune the car, or any degree of movement between fully shut to fully open. Driven by a PWM signal, shouldn't be too tricky... Just waiting for my new ICD debugger/programmer to arrive now.
Back to the screamer... I fitted the new downpipe to the car and stuck the valve where it would fit best. This is how it looks now:
Im not sure that the tape will hold up to exhaust gas temperatures, so I will get it welded up when the 42mm OD stainless tubing arrives. The screamer will vent to the bottom of the car. Gasses should only be flowing here during peak boost, so no dangers of any fumes entering the cockpit.
On a side note, I installed a rossi sticker at the rear, mainly to let other bikers know that I have probably seen them
Dayglo yellow stands out nicely I think!!
The rears were a bit better, -0.8* camber both sides so they were left alone and 1mm toe in. Car drives much better now, no more slight pull to the left! £58 well spent.
Well we were blessed with a morning of no rain, so I made the most. Now that I have the downpipe and exhaust valve, I needed to make sure that there was room for it all in the engine bay. The hardest part of the whole process so far has been removing the OEM turbo heat shield. 7 bolts later...
There is no way that is going back on! Time to order a turbo blanket so I never have to fiddle around with impossibly awkward bolts again. Shall be ordering through harvey, he has a good rep.
Naked engine bay, again:
Out with the old downpipe and cat, here it is sat beside the new downpipe:
Luckily the cat is rather large, so I can hopefully fit the valve beside where the cat sat. Just out of interest I weighed both downpipes and founf the old one to be 9.3kg and the new one (including exhaust valve) was 5.4kg. 4kg saving, not too bad!
Heres another look at the new divorced downpipe, made by magnex:
It is a single tube bent to shape, rather than a welded pipe design. Should help with exhaust gas flow. Strange how the flanges are steel but the rest is stainless...
Anyway, here is the titanium exhaust valve. In case any of you are going to attempt the same thing, the GSXR-1000 K2 exhaust valve is the one to go for (as pictured) as it is so very light! If you want a steel version, go for the GSXR-1000 K1 exhaust valve / link pipe.
The servo which controls the valve position looks like this:
I will write my own PIC controller to control its position. This will let me shut it off if I want to be civilised or tune the car, or any degree of movement between fully shut to fully open. Driven by a PWM signal, shouldn't be too tricky... Just waiting for my new ICD debugger/programmer to arrive now.
Back to the screamer... I fitted the new downpipe to the car and stuck the valve where it would fit best. This is how it looks now:
Im not sure that the tape will hold up to exhaust gas temperatures, so I will get it welded up when the 42mm OD stainless tubing arrives. The screamer will vent to the bottom of the car. Gasses should only be flowing here during peak boost, so no dangers of any fumes entering the cockpit.
On a side note, I installed a rossi sticker at the rear, mainly to let other bikers know that I have probably seen them
Dayglo yellow stands out nicely I think!!
09 October 2010, 01:56 PM
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Well while at the aligners, they pointed out to me that the steering rack gaiters needed replacing, so I ordered a pair and fitted them this morning. Nice and straight forward, just had to ensure that the track rod ends went on in the same position that they come off at! Verniers at hand, this wasn't a problem. Here is one of the old gaiters:
Next, a big thanks to jamz_ for providing me with some driver decals Here they can be seen aligned, prior to final fitment:
I was happy with that so here they are:
Now shall I continue playing with the downpipe or give it a good clean?!!
Next, a big thanks to jamz_ for providing me with some driver decals
Here they can be seen aligned, prior to final fitment:I was happy with that so here they are:
Now shall I continue playing with the downpipe or give it a good clean?!!
30 October 2010, 02:15 PM
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Well its been a while since the last update, I have since fitted a decat downpipe, to match the decat exhaust. Here it is heatwrapped, ready to be silicone coated:
Was a very easy job, took perhaps 30 mins. I don't know what all the fuss is about!
On an unrelated note, I decided to investigate the transmission "lash" that is inherent with scoobies and all 4x4 systems. When driving along at slow speeds and when on 5-10% throttle off and on, the car seems to be slightly jerky, as if the transmission is batting back and fourth. I checked all CV joints for play and torqued all related bolts, in particular the hub bolts. All were fine, so I set about under the car to determine where the play is coming from. When rotating the rear of the propshaft to the rear diff entrance, the rear driveshafts rotate instantaneously so the diff is fine. All 3 UJs of the propshaft are also fine, with no play whatsoever. The propshaft bearing is also fine. This then leads onto the propshaft into gearbox area. The propshaft can be seen here to rotate while the car is stationary. I read somewhere that this is related to the dccd transfer gears and is not considered a problem, however I will post a seperate thread for this to see if there is a way to reduce it, for smoothness sake:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCXHcw6nalc
Was a very easy job, took perhaps 30 mins. I don't know what all the fuss is about!
On an unrelated note, I decided to investigate the transmission "lash" that is inherent with scoobies and all 4x4 systems. When driving along at slow speeds and when on 5-10% throttle off and on, the car seems to be slightly jerky, as if the transmission is batting back and fourth. I checked all CV joints for play and torqued all related bolts, in particular the hub bolts. All were fine, so I set about under the car to determine where the play is coming from. When rotating the rear of the propshaft to the rear diff entrance, the rear driveshafts rotate instantaneously so the diff is fine. All 3 UJs of the propshaft are also fine, with no play whatsoever. The propshaft bearing is also fine. This then leads onto the propshaft into gearbox area. The propshaft can be seen here to rotate while the car is stationary. I read somewhere that this is related to the dccd transfer gears and is not considered a problem, however I will post a seperate thread for this to see if there is a way to reduce it, for smoothness sake:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCXHcw6nalc
30 October 2010, 05:41 PM
#27
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Just spotted this thread. Nice work. I get some of the lash that you refer to on certain conditions on my Classic - I had thought it may be related to the ecu map - but have not really investigated.
Do you have any plans for a track day ?. Good to see another MY98 owner in the Reading area
Do you have any plans for a track day ?. Good to see another MY98 owner in the Reading area
30 October 2010, 05:51 PM
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Where abouts are you from? Can pm if you like. Its not ECU related, I can replicate the sound when the car is off and on ramps! Definite play in the box and consequently the prop shaft. An ECU map might help fix it, if more fuel is added when you let off the throttle, but this doesn't fix the problem, it will just be masked slightly.
Track days are the plan yes, as soon as I can get a conclusive answer to which exhaust I need to fit to go on track! It is fully de-catted now and with the HKS backbox, is slightly too loud. As soon as the new exhaust, its track time! Do you plan to track at all? I was thinking Abingdon runway for the first, the guys at subaru4you head up there sometimes. Nice and local!
Track days are the plan yes, as soon as I can get a conclusive answer to which exhaust I need to fit to go on track! It is fully de-catted now and with the HKS backbox, is slightly too loud. As soon as the new exhaust, its track time! Do you plan to track at all? I was thinking Abingdon runway for the first, the guys at subaru4you head up there sometimes. Nice and local!
30 October 2010, 06:57 PM
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Really enjoyed reading how you have been modifying the car.Must be satisfying(and cheaper!),to do it yourself.
Keep up the good work.Look forward to seeing the end product.
What else do you have planned?
Chris
Keep up the good work.Look forward to seeing the end product.
What else do you have planned?
Chris
30 October 2010, 09:48 PM
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Where abouts are you from? Can pm if you like. Its not ECU related, I can replicate the sound when the car is off and on ramps! Definite play in the box and consequently the prop shaft. An ECU map might help fix it, if more fuel is added when you let off the throttle, but this doesn't fix the problem, it will just be masked slightly.
Track days are the plan yes, as soon as I can get a conclusive answer to which exhaust I need to fit to go on track! It is fully de-catted now and with the HKS backbox, is slightly too loud. As soon as the new exhaust, its track time! Do you plan to track at all? I was thinking Abingdon runway for the first, the guys at subaru4you head up there sometimes. Nice and local!
Track days are the plan yes, as soon as I can get a conclusive answer to which exhaust I need to fit to go on track! It is fully de-catted now and with the HKS backbox, is slightly too loud. As soon as the new exhaust, its track time! Do you plan to track at all? I was thinking Abingdon runway for the first, the guys at subaru4you head up there sometimes. Nice and local!