Bolt in(circa £400) or weld in(circa£800)?

Any tips greatly appreciated, NEED to get this right first time!!!!!

Anyone know of a good supplier/fitter in the north/north west area please??

regards

Matt

 

Weld in will cost you a hell of a lot more than 800 quid.

Fully strip car to bare shell, loom, brake lines, fuel line, glass the lot!

Then fitting cost, which varies but your lookng at around £1k I reckon, then prep surfaces andpaint, expensive even if you do it yourself I used 25 cans on mine.

Then totaly rebuild car cutting and modding dash and all sorts to fit around cage, get glass refitted if they got the original out without breaking it (my screen didn't make it).

I think mine came in around £2800 all in for a T45 customs cages weld in, but had a lot of free help and did lots myself so that could go up another grand easy depending on how you do it.


Unless your competing in motorsport I would probably go for the bolt in otherwise what are you doing on here get in the garage and start stripping it!!!!

 

Rob knows!
The bolt in will be more than £400 if new too!
Minimum work in comparison, but a good day to DIY the job from start to finish. Bolt-in involves some welding too and it is not just weld it where it touches either.

None of this should deter you from fitting a car if the car is going off road and onto track...any track, gravel or tarmac. Rob and I hillclimbed with bolt-in cages, but wisely Rob has gone total on his RA.

A caged car is so much better for rapid driving. Several will argue they are dangerous in a road-only car, but I can't see that argument.

Just my opinion.

 

you should have seen my old school thread regarding roll cages a few years back, it was quite funny, it dragged on for a long time

i would have been infracted beyond death for doing the same kind of thread now

this is going back around 4 years ago

 

Scoobyclinic supplied Saftey Devices (dash/trim free) bolt in cage* is being fitted to my GC8 as I type (want to stay in "roadgoing class" so miniminal messing with interior (will be a bit of a fudge around the rear seat area).

*Part of a long long long list of "things to do" with the RA.

When all completed I will post a few pictures for comment.

 

I bought an OMP cage new for £365 and that included plates to weld onto car.

It took 4 hours to align and weld in plates for cage feet. I had to move wiring and fuel pipes, more spaced them out than re routed. Cage took an age to align but worth the time. Welding was an hours work with the mig.

Door bars cut and welded then whole thing removed for painting which took a day with many thin coats to stop it chipping when fitted.

Dash was trimmed in either corner, again this was best done by making a template up to keep the trimming tidy. then retrimmed carpets around feet.

2 days in the workshop due to paint drying time but about a full days work for two people to make it look good.

Or the cage Rob used last year takes 2 hours to fit with a drill. I have one in the barn. Easy way out as it doesnt go through the dash and bolts through the floor (not the best mounting) but the OMP can be braced to car body so much better option. I will add more brackets on the next one I do, so I can pick up on more anchor points around the inner shell.

Weld in is a complete Bast##d, I put one in a Sierra and it took me two weeks....never again! you need six pairs of hands.

The OMP cages are reasonably light and good value for money. Try Peter Lloyd Rallying for a good price.

John

 

Hi ladsHavin difficulty locating a new age cage, SD and OMP dont seem to do em, any ideas where from?

 

Specialists in design and manufacture of safety cages and roll cages for race and rally

 

Try Scoobyclinic (Adam):

Tel: 01246 590807
Tel: 01246 591667
Tel/Fax: 01246 591664

Email: info@scoobyclinic.com

I ordered Safety Devices cage from Adam and received it 2 days later

 

Rob, when you say remove the glass do you mean front and rear windscreen?

I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?

Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...bolt-cage.html

 

you will need the front and rear sceens out to get at the spot welds that are along the front and rear edges.there are 48 spot welds and eight nuts on the inside to remove the roof skin(yes i have the tee shirt lol)

 

Doors obviously off and front and rear screen must come out for full weld in.

 

I was told Zen performance cut holes in the floor and dropped the cage down to do the top welds. Saves removing screen/roof.

 

Yep, and Dave Wallis did the same on his 'still-born' Wagon.
Quite a common trick.
If you have a full weld-in cage, the scrutineers will feel for welds at the top of the tube joints.

 

and if you get the cage in properly they wont be able to tell where you dont weld fully.

It isnt possible to weld 100% of every tube regardless of how you make or fit the cage..

Safety devices cages are ****e in a wagon as once you weld the plates in for a removable cage, you cant refit the rear seats!!

SHP (i think) motorsport look good

David

 

Taken at Prodrive:


And all these parts added too:

 

There are no off the shelf bolt in cages for Newages apart from Cusco. (and none of those in the country until June)

The scoobyclinic cage is for a classic that they put into a newage - not ideal.

I had a custom cage built by SHP in cambridgeshire - top job IMO and would be perfect for what you want. Contact details for them are are my thread.. https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...bolt-cage.html

 

Building a Roll Cage

 

That is a very good DIY guide indeed. Makes it look too easy!
Will help many reading.

 

Peter LLoyd Rallying have some good deals at the moment

 

but no bolt in cages for newages.

no-one does them apart from the 'strip your car down to bare metal' types or cusco.

 

We're just re-shelling ours at the moment. Full weld in cage, Custom cages. Once sorted the shell fully prepped will be about £2500. However if you are planning to compete in any serious motorsport this is money well spent.

Having hunted around it appears OMP only do a bolt in, but it's pretty good. Safety devices have gone a bit off on quality since going off shore on production So Sparco weld in is good or custom cages.

We recently had a huge off on the Somerset stages. At about 75mph hit a tree stump which barrell rolled the car onto my side (co-driver) and then while upside down slid into a tree doing about 60mph, the driver side front took full impact. The engine has moved across about 4 inches and back about 2 inches.

However we were both out of the car in about 20 seconds and suffered very little in the way of injury, in fact I got away with nothing! The cage stood up amazingly well, it was a weld in Torquespeed cage and did it's job spot on. The prep is vital, hence we are having the shell sorted out properly. Although we are switiching from a 2 door to a 4 door.

Picture at: http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...ges2008004.jpg

 

Those that have done their own GC8: I am installing a multipoint weld-in Custom Cages cage at the end of July. I have stripped my dash, on the passenger side front, where the bar will go to the suspension turret, the fan for the internal heater is in the way. Is there room to refit this after or does it have to be sacrificed...?

 

If you want to retain the heater you need to modify the housings to clear the new behind dash bar, it can be done, but requires a fair bit of trial and error

 

Id be one of them. Only a fully welded in cage picking up on the suspension points (and tied-in everywhere else) will make any real difference to a vehicles handling. In fact, a six point bolt in cage will detract from a vehicles handling as it adds nothing to the monocoques rigidity, but it does add quite a lot of weight high up, raising the cars centre of gravity.

With regards to it being dangerous: this depends entirely on what else youve done. If all that you have done is fit a simple 6pt bolt in cage altering nothing else then I think that youre taking your life in your hands. This only becomes an issue if you crash, but at the time that youre relying on a roll cage to give you extra protection, its more likely to kill you as your head smashes against it. To be safe you need to fit a substantially lowered seat, to give as much clearence as possible between your head and the tubing. Id leave the harnesses off too (and Id leave anything below a six point harness on the shelf as its virtually useless): the best thing to hold you firmly against the seat squab, which is what you need (while your torso can be pushed out of the way), is a CG-Lock. People who are about to argue that 'you can hit your head on a pillar durning an accident and the risk is the same', should regard the hoop/tubing/joints as they would a head-height 6" metal spike protuding into the cabin. Very easy to hit in an accident, much closer and with the same likely outcome...

Simon

 

That's a great point to be considered. Ours is fully caged out as expected, and in the accident mentioned above I have a large scratch of yellow paint on my helmet from the cage. As co-driver I'm sitting low a quite far back, but even being only just off the floor my head still hit the cage.