Roll cages
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Roll cages
Bolt in(circa £400) or weld in(circa£800)?
Any tips greatly appreciated, NEED to get this right first time!!!!!
Anyone know of a good supplier/fitter in the north/north west area please??
regards
Matt
Any tips greatly appreciated, NEED to get this right first time!!!!!
Anyone know of a good supplier/fitter in the north/north west area please??
regards
Matt
#2
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 1,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fully strip car to bare shell, loom, brake lines, fuel line, glass the lot!
Then fitting cost, which varies but your lookng at around £1k I reckon, then prep surfaces andpaint, expensive even if you do it yourself I used 25 cans on mine.
Then totaly rebuild car cutting and modding dash and all sorts to fit around cage, get glass refitted if they got the original out without breaking it (my screen didn't make it).
I think mine came in around £2800 all in for a T45 customs cages weld in, but had a lot of free help and did lots myself so that could go up another grand easy depending on how you do it.
Unless your competing in motorsport I would probably go for the bolt in otherwise what are you doing on here get in the garage and start stripping it!!!!
#3
Rob knows!
The bolt in will be more than £400 if new too!
Minimum work in comparison, but a good day to DIY the job from start to finish. Bolt-in involves some welding too and it is not just weld it where it touches either.
None of this should deter you from fitting a car if the car is going off road and onto track...any track, gravel or tarmac. Rob and I hillclimbed with bolt-in cages, but wisely Rob has gone total on his RA.
A caged car is so much better for rapid driving. Several will argue they are dangerous in a road-only car, but I can't see that argument.
Just my opinion.
The bolt in will be more than £400 if new too!
Minimum work in comparison, but a good day to DIY the job from start to finish. Bolt-in involves some welding too and it is not just weld it where it touches either.
None of this should deter you from fitting a car if the car is going off road and onto track...any track, gravel or tarmac. Rob and I hillclimbed with bolt-in cages, but wisely Rob has gone total on his RA.
A caged car is so much better for rapid driving. Several will argue they are dangerous in a road-only car, but I can't see that argument.
Just my opinion.
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Zed Ess Won Hay Tee
Posts: 21,611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would have been infracted beyond death for doing the same kind of thread now
this is going back around 4 years ago
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Rob knows!
The bolt in will be more than £400 if new too!
Minimum work in comparison, but a good day to DIY the job from start to finish. Bolt-in involves some welding too and it is not just weld it where it touches either.
None of this should deter you from fitting a car if the car is going off road and onto track...any track, gravel or tarmac. Rob and I hillclimbed with bolt-in cages, but wisely Rob has gone total on his RA.
A caged car is so much better for rapid driving. Several will argue they are dangerous in a road-only car, but I can't see that argument.
Just my opinion.
The bolt in will be more than £400 if new too!
Minimum work in comparison, but a good day to DIY the job from start to finish. Bolt-in involves some welding too and it is not just weld it where it touches either.
None of this should deter you from fitting a car if the car is going off road and onto track...any track, gravel or tarmac. Rob and I hillclimbed with bolt-in cages, but wisely Rob has gone total on his RA.
A caged car is so much better for rapid driving. Several will argue they are dangerous in a road-only car, but I can't see that argument.
Just my opinion.
*Part of a long long long list of "things to do" with the RA.
When all completed I will post a few pictures for comment.
#6
Scooby Regular
I bought an OMP cage new for £365 and that included plates to weld onto car.
It took 4 hours to align and weld in plates for cage feet. I had to move wiring and fuel pipes, more spaced them out than re routed. Cage took an age to align but worth the time. Welding was an hours work with the mig.
Door bars cut and welded then whole thing removed for painting which took a day with many thin coats to stop it chipping when fitted.
Dash was trimmed in either corner, again this was best done by making a template up to keep the trimming tidy. then retrimmed carpets around feet.
2 days in the workshop due to paint drying time but about a full days work for two people to make it look good.
Or the cage Rob used last year takes 2 hours to fit with a drill. I have one in the barn. Easy way out as it doesnt go through the dash and bolts through the floor (not the best mounting) but the OMP can be braced to car body so much better option. I will add more brackets on the next one I do, so I can pick up on more anchor points around the inner shell.
Weld in is a complete Bast##d, I put one in a Sierra and it took me two weeks....never again! you need six pairs of hands.
The OMP cages are reasonably light and good value for money. Try Peter Lloyd Rallying for a good price.
John
It took 4 hours to align and weld in plates for cage feet. I had to move wiring and fuel pipes, more spaced them out than re routed. Cage took an age to align but worth the time. Welding was an hours work with the mig.
Door bars cut and welded then whole thing removed for painting which took a day with many thin coats to stop it chipping when fitted.
Dash was trimmed in either corner, again this was best done by making a template up to keep the trimming tidy. then retrimmed carpets around feet.
2 days in the workshop due to paint drying time but about a full days work for two people to make it look good.
Or the cage Rob used last year takes 2 hours to fit with a drill. I have one in the barn. Easy way out as it doesnt go through the dash and bolts through the floor (not the best mounting) but the OMP can be braced to car body so much better option. I will add more brackets on the next one I do, so I can pick up on more anchor points around the inner shell.
Weld in is a complete Bast##d, I put one in a Sierra and it took me two weeks....never again! you need six pairs of hands.
The OMP cages are reasonably light and good value for money. Try Peter Lloyd Rallying for a good price.
John
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi ladsHavin difficulty locating a new age cage, SD and OMP dont seem to do em, any ideas where from?
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Tel: 01246 590807
Tel: 01246 591667
Tel/Fax: 01246 591664
Email: info@scoobyclinic.com
I ordered Safety Devices cage from Adam and received it 2 days later
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fermanagh/Tyrone
Posts: 579
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rob, when you say remove the glass do you mean front and rear windscreen?
I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?
Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....
I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?
Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....
#11
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: cornwall
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: oxfordshire
Posts: 657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rob, when you say remove the glass do you mean front and rear windscreen?
I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?
Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....
I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?
Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....
#13
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 1,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rob, when you say remove the glass do you mean front and rear windscreen?
I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?
Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....
I'm planning on fitting a multipoint (safety devices) weld in this July for a track '95 WRX. However as it has a sunroof, I'm planning on removing the old roof skin and fitting one that has no sunroof, which will also aid greatly in welding in the cage. If I have the roof off, do I still need to remove the windscreens?
Doing everything myself (barr painting), nearly all stripped inside just got fuel + brake lines to remove. Should start my own project thread here soon....
#15
Yep, and Dave Wallis did the same on his 'still-born' Wagon.
Quite a common trick.
If you have a full weld-in cage, the scrutineers will feel for welds at the top of the tube joints.
Quite a common trick.
If you have a full weld-in cage, the scrutineers will feel for welds at the top of the tube joints.
#16
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
and if you get the cage in properly they wont be able to tell where you dont weld fully.
It isnt possible to weld 100% of every tube regardless of how you make or fit the cage..
Safety devices cages are ****e in a wagon as once you weld the plates in for a removable cage, you cant refit the rear seats!!
SHP (i think) motorsport look good
David
It isnt possible to weld 100% of every tube regardless of how you make or fit the cage..
Safety devices cages are ****e in a wagon as once you weld the plates in for a removable cage, you cant refit the rear seats!!
SHP (i think) motorsport look good
David
#18
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
The scoobyclinic cage is for a classic that they put into a newage - not ideal.
I had a custom cage built by SHP in cambridgeshire - top job IMO and would be perfect for what you want. Contact details for them are are my thread.. https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...bolt-cage.html
Last edited by dynamix; 20 April 2008 at 08:08 AM.
#19
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fermanagh/Tyrone
Posts: 579
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#23
Scooby Regular
We're just re-shelling ours at the moment. Full weld in cage, Custom cages. Once sorted the shell fully prepped will be about £2500. However if you are planning to compete in any serious motorsport this is money well spent.
Having hunted around it appears OMP only do a bolt in, but it's pretty good. Safety devices have gone a bit off on quality since going off shore on production So Sparco weld in is good or custom cages.
We recently had a huge off on the Somerset stages. At about 75mph hit a tree stump which barrell rolled the car onto my side (co-driver) and then while upside down slid into a tree doing about 60mph, the driver side front took full impact. The engine has moved across about 4 inches and back about 2 inches.
However we were both out of the car in about 20 seconds and suffered very little in the way of injury, in fact I got away with nothing! The cage stood up amazingly well, it was a weld in Torquespeed cage and did it's job spot on. The prep is vital, hence we are having the shell sorted out properly. Although we are switiching from a 2 door to a 4 door.
Picture at: http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...ges2008004.jpg
Having hunted around it appears OMP only do a bolt in, but it's pretty good. Safety devices have gone a bit off on quality since going off shore on production So Sparco weld in is good or custom cages.
We recently had a huge off on the Somerset stages. At about 75mph hit a tree stump which barrell rolled the car onto my side (co-driver) and then while upside down slid into a tree doing about 60mph, the driver side front took full impact. The engine has moved across about 4 inches and back about 2 inches.
However we were both out of the car in about 20 seconds and suffered very little in the way of injury, in fact I got away with nothing! The cage stood up amazingly well, it was a weld in Torquespeed cage and did it's job spot on. The prep is vital, hence we are having the shell sorted out properly. Although we are switiching from a 2 door to a 4 door.
Picture at: http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...ges2008004.jpg
#24
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fermanagh/Tyrone
Posts: 579
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those that have done their own GC8: I am installing a multipoint weld-in Custom Cages cage at the end of July. I have stripped my dash, on the passenger side front, where the bar will go to the suspension turret, the fan for the internal heater is in the way. Is there room to refit this after or does it have to be sacrificed...?
#26
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sheffield; Rome of the North
Posts: 17,582
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 911
A caged car is so much better for rapid driving. Several will argue they are dangerous in a road-only car, but I can't see that argument.
Just my opinion.
Just my opinion.
With regards to it being dangerous: this depends entirely on what else youve done. If all that you have done is fit a simple 6pt bolt in cage altering nothing else then I think that youre taking your life in your hands. This only becomes an issue if you crash, but at the time that youre relying on a roll cage to give you extra protection, its more likely to kill you as your head smashes against it. To be safe you need to fit a substantially lowered seat, to give as much clearence as possible between your head and the tubing. Id leave the harnesses off too (and Id leave anything below a six point harness on the shelf as its virtually useless): the best thing to hold you firmly against the seat squab, which is what you need (while your torso can be pushed out of the way), is a CG-Lock. People who are about to argue that 'you can hit your head on a pillar durning an accident and the risk is the same', should regard the hoop/tubing/joints as they would a head-height 6" metal spike protuding into the cabin. Very easy to hit in an accident, much closer and with the same likely outcome...
Simon
#27
Scooby Regular
Id be one of them. Only a fully welded in cage picking up on the suspension points (and tied-in everywhere else) will make any real difference to a vehicles handling. In fact, a six point bolt in cage will detract from a vehicles handling as it adds nothing to the monocoques rigidity, but it does add quite a lot of weight high up, raising the cars centre of gravity.
With regards to it being dangerous: this depends entirely on what else youve done. If all that you have done is fit a simple 6pt bolt in cage altering nothing else then I think that youre taking your life in your hands. This only becomes an issue if you crash, but at the time that youre relying on a roll cage to give you extra protection, its more likely to kill you as your head smashes against it. To be safe you need to fit a substantially lowered seat, to give as much clearence as possible between your head and the tubing. Id leave the harnesses off too (and Id leave anything below a six point harness on the shelf as its virtually useless): the best thing to hold you firmly against the seat squab, which is what you need (while your torso can be pushed out of the way), is a CG-Lock. People who are about to argue that 'you can hit your head on a pillar durning an accident and the risk is the same', should regard the hoop/tubing/joints as they would a head-height 6" metal spike protuding into the cabin. Very easy to hit in an accident, much closer and with the same likely outcome...
Simon
With regards to it being dangerous: this depends entirely on what else youve done. If all that you have done is fit a simple 6pt bolt in cage altering nothing else then I think that youre taking your life in your hands. This only becomes an issue if you crash, but at the time that youre relying on a roll cage to give you extra protection, its more likely to kill you as your head smashes against it. To be safe you need to fit a substantially lowered seat, to give as much clearence as possible between your head and the tubing. Id leave the harnesses off too (and Id leave anything below a six point harness on the shelf as its virtually useless): the best thing to hold you firmly against the seat squab, which is what you need (while your torso can be pushed out of the way), is a CG-Lock. People who are about to argue that 'you can hit your head on a pillar durning an accident and the risk is the same', should regard the hoop/tubing/joints as they would a head-height 6" metal spike protuding into the cabin. Very easy to hit in an accident, much closer and with the same likely outcome...
Simon
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
28
28 December 2015 11:07 PM