Maybe the start of a project.... maybe not...
30 September 2003, 11:13 PM
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May as well start my new thread with some pics...
Today i finally picked up the 94 WRX engine from a friend...
Engine been outside and the spiders have made their home on the VF12
Started stripping it down... Ancilleries first..
Inlet manifold off, bit dirty dont you think...
how bout top...
VF12 Vs VF23
I plan on covering the complete strip down and clean of the engine which may not result in anything but will help some people understand the insides of an engine
Rob
Edited to make smaller files
[Edited by tweenierob - 10/1/2003 11:50:25 PM]
Today i finally picked up the 94 WRX engine from a friend...
Engine been outside and the spiders have made their home on the VF12
Started stripping it down... Ancilleries first..
Inlet manifold off, bit dirty dont you think...
how bout top...
VF12 Vs VF23
I plan on covering the complete strip down and clean of the engine which may not result in anything but will help some people understand the insides of an engine
Rob
Edited to make smaller files
[Edited by tweenierob - 10/1/2003 11:50:25 PM]
01 October 2003, 08:35 AM
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Rob,
I think you'll find that it's a open deck Legacy engine. Apart from the VF12, the rocker covers give it away.
Mark.
I think you'll find that it's a open deck Legacy engine. Apart from the VF12, the rocker covers give it away.
Mark.
01 October 2003, 11:30 AM
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Hi Mark - was the 92/93 Legacy 2.0 turbo ODB or CDB? Is there an easy way of telling without removing the motor/heads from the car?
Thanks
Richard (who just bought one for 80 quid on the off chance...)
Thanks
Richard (who just bought one for 80 quid on the off chance...)
01 October 2003, 11:50 AM
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No worries Mark... Thought it was odd when my mate first got the car and it had a VF12 on it....
But...
This is just a taster TBH, I am bored with nothing to do until my parts and engines come next week.The 'real' project starts next week, hopefully weds... Another user from the board will be documenting it as we go along.
As you will see in a min when i upload the pics there is a prob with the engine PMSL!!
Rob
....But...
This is just a taster TBH, I am bored with nothing to do until my parts and engines come next week.The 'real' project starts next week, hopefully weds... Another user from the board will be documenting it as we go along.
As you will see in a min when i upload the pics there is a prob with the engine PMSL!!
Rob
01 October 2003, 11:53 AM
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P.s. i find the easiest way to determine a CDB to ODB is to look from the underneath of the car at the engine just above the oil filter. If the Engine surface has a webbing effect on it- it is CDB if not it is ODB.
Rob
Just uploading...
Mark what is the difference in rocker covers?? Is it the Coilpack/spark plug holes?
[Edited by tweenierob - 10/1/2003 11:53:47 PM]
Rob
Just uploading...
Mark what is the difference in rocker covers?? Is it the Coilpack/spark plug holes?
[Edited by tweenierob - 10/1/2003 11:53:47 PM]
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Rob, very interesting, thanks.
02 October 2003, 02:09 AM
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Lol, have to wear Purple gloves at work given the 'stuff' i deal with.
Right.. here goes, more work tomorrow..
First Job was to take the rocker cover off, it is held on by 6 10mm bolts which have a rubber sealer washer. It is always bast to replace these if removing for any reason as they dont seem to seal very well second time round. Either that or a smear of instant gasket on the old ones.
Next thing to do is remove the cams, i started off with the inlet cam (Top), Loosen off the Cam cap nearest the pulley first as this is held on by very weak bolts. Then, loosen off each bolt half a turn at a time going from the left cap to the centre so that you do not put any undue stress on either of the caps if the cam has a lobe/s engaged.
Once the first cam is out remove the 2nd, you can see where i have replaced the caps, also see where the 6 head bolt holes are. Although i have removed all 6 head bolts and have left the head in place i would reccommend supporting the head or getting someone else to help before unscrewing the last bolt fully... just incase it falls
Cylinder head off... If the head feels stuck on the block with the bolts removed use a rubber hammer or wooden mallet to tap the side of the head to break the seal. Once again make sure the head will not fall off once loose. Make sure that if you do have to put the head 'face down' that it is on a clean soft surface, ie. a cloth... The face can be marked or scratched if it is put face down on something hard.
This is what an Open Deck block looks like, as you can see there is not a lot of Liner/cylinder wall support.
Now for the other side
i have already removed the cams and am just starting on the head bolts, i forgot to add with the last head... When undoing the head bolts make sure you loosen the bolts off bit by bit bolt to bolt, this is to stop the chance of the head warping on removal. I would say chances of a scoob head bending are less than say a 4 cylinder head but it may still happen if two end bolts are left tight whilst the other 4 are fully undone.
This is what i first saw when i removed this head, i was aware of the damage before i started but i was still impressed
I removed some of the 'parts' and you can see the biggest crack and part of the liner is missing
The other split and you can see the nice twist in the end of the Rod, not sure what the other end is like... will see tomorrow.
Heres whats left of the rings you can also see part of one of the valves and a peice of the ringland from the piston.
Another pic of the piston crown and some more ringland, it must have had a good hit as it is quite smooth
I think it is not right to say 'good side' but it is compared to the other side a bit tarred up but looking a bit healthier than it neighbour.
The damaged Cylinder head, for a second i thought that one of the cylinders had been changed to 5 valve (it is 2am i am allowed lame humour)
Both heads removed, this is the short engine... I removed the flywheel earlier so no rear pics..
Oil pump off, pretty easy... 7 10mm bolts and it slid off, if you look at the crankshaft you can see the flat side where the crank slides into the pump.
The oil pump... you can just see if you look closely on the right where the crank comes through the pump,an ofset dog (sp) this is how the oil pump rotates from the crank.
Next up i removed the water pump, also an easy task... bit of a boring pic but this is what the water pump looks like
Here you can see the short engine with the oil n water pumps removed, just above where the water pump was is a plate that covers one of the gudgeon pin bungs, this is held on with 3 12mm bolts and must be removed to get to the gudgeon pin bung...
Next i took the sump off, you can see the oil pick up here that runs up to the oil pump, also the baffle plate.
Pick up and baffle plate removed... you can see the big ends and the bolts.
On the back of the engine behind the flywheel is a small plate held on by two phillip head screws... behind it is one of the ports for removing the gudgeon pins, as you can see in this pic i have lined the piston up so that the gudgeon pin is level with the port. You can also see the circlip, this must be removed using long nose pliers so that the gudgeon pin can be withdrawn. the piston can then be removed from the cylinder as it is no longer attatched to the Rod.
Piston position for pin to be level with port...
Circlip removed.
To get the gudgeon pin out i removed the plug from the opposite piston and using a drift tapped the gugeon pin outwards. You must take car not to score the piston whilt doing this. This is what the gudgeon pin looks like...
To split the block in half you can just remove two pistons, this is because the other half of the block can seperate taking the two rods with it (think that makes sense) pics tomorrow will show what i mean.
Last couple of pics before bed...
The block is held together by low torque bolts and high torque bolts...
Low torque 12mm bolts.
High torque bolts (12mm hex) one of the four removed and another being undone..
Time for bed!!!!
hopefully will get the pics of the block split/rods pistons out and heads dissassembled in the next two days... watch this space..
Rob
Please excuse any dodgy spelling or grammar, it f uckin 2o'clock!
Right.. here goes, more work tomorrow..
First Job was to take the rocker cover off, it is held on by 6 10mm bolts which have a rubber sealer washer. It is always bast to replace these if removing for any reason as they dont seem to seal very well second time round. Either that or a smear of instant gasket on the old ones.
Next thing to do is remove the cams, i started off with the inlet cam (Top), Loosen off the Cam cap nearest the pulley first as this is held on by very weak bolts. Then, loosen off each bolt half a turn at a time going from the left cap to the centre so that you do not put any undue stress on either of the caps if the cam has a lobe/s engaged.
Once the first cam is out remove the 2nd, you can see where i have replaced the caps, also see where the 6 head bolt holes are. Although i have removed all 6 head bolts and have left the head in place i would reccommend supporting the head or getting someone else to help before unscrewing the last bolt fully... just incase it falls
Cylinder head off... If the head feels stuck on the block with the bolts removed use a rubber hammer or wooden mallet to tap the side of the head to break the seal. Once again make sure the head will not fall off once loose. Make sure that if you do have to put the head 'face down' that it is on a clean soft surface, ie. a cloth... The face can be marked or scratched if it is put face down on something hard.
This is what an Open Deck block looks like, as you can see there is not a lot of Liner/cylinder wall support.
Now for the other side
i have already removed the cams and am just starting on the head bolts, i forgot to add with the last head... When undoing the head bolts make sure you loosen the bolts off bit by bit bolt to bolt, this is to stop the chance of the head warping on removal. I would say chances of a scoob head bending are less than say a 4 cylinder head but it may still happen if two end bolts are left tight whilst the other 4 are fully undone.This is what i first saw when i removed this head, i was aware of the damage before i started but i was still impressed
I removed some of the 'parts' and you can see the biggest crack and part of the liner is missing
The other split and you can see the nice twist in the end of the Rod, not sure what the other end is like... will see tomorrow.
Heres whats left of the rings
you can also see part of one of the valves and a peice of the ringland from the piston.Another pic of the piston crown and some more ringland, it must have had a good hit as it is quite smooth
I think it is not right to say 'good side' but it is compared to the other side
a bit tarred up but looking a bit healthier than it neighbour.The damaged Cylinder head, for a second i thought that one of the cylinders had been changed to 5 valve
(it is 2am i am allowed lame humour)Both heads removed, this is the short engine... I removed the flywheel earlier so no rear pics..
Oil pump off, pretty easy... 7 10mm bolts and it slid off, if you look at the crankshaft you can see the flat side where the crank slides into the pump.
The oil pump... you can just see if you look closely on the right where the crank comes through the pump,an ofset dog (sp) this is how the oil pump rotates from the crank.
Next up i removed the water pump, also an easy task... bit of a boring pic but this is what the water pump looks like
Here you can see the short engine with the oil n water pumps removed, just above where the water pump was is a plate that covers one of the gudgeon pin bungs, this is held on with 3 12mm bolts and must be removed to get to the gudgeon pin bung...
Next i took the sump off, you can see the oil pick up here that runs up to the oil pump, also the baffle plate.
Pick up and baffle plate removed... you can see the big ends and the bolts.
On the back of the engine behind the flywheel is a small plate held on by two phillip head screws... behind it is one of the ports for removing the gudgeon pins, as you can see in this pic i have lined the piston up so that the gudgeon pin is level with the port. You can also see the circlip, this must be removed using long nose pliers so that the gudgeon pin can be withdrawn. the piston can then be removed from the cylinder as it is no longer attatched to the Rod.
Piston position for pin to be level with port...
Circlip removed.
To get the gudgeon pin out i removed the plug from the opposite piston and using a drift tapped the gugeon pin outwards. You must take car not to score the piston whilt doing this. This is what the gudgeon pin looks like...
To split the block in half you can just remove two pistons, this is because the other half of the block can seperate taking the two rods with it (think that makes sense) pics tomorrow will show what i mean.
Last couple of pics before bed...
The block is held together by low torque bolts and high torque bolts...
Low torque 12mm bolts.
High torque bolts (12mm hex) one of the four removed and another being undone..
Time for bed!!!!
hopefully will get the pics of the block split/rods pistons out and heads dissassembled in the next two days... watch this space..
Rob
Please excuse any dodgy spelling or grammar, it f uckin 2o'clock!
02 October 2003, 10:01 AM
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Damn Money, you beat me to it! 
This looks excellent, and will be a real help to anyone wanting to strip their engine. That damage looks bloody nasty to me tho!
good luck,
Nick.
This looks excellent, and will be a real help to anyone wanting to strip their engine. That damage looks bloody nasty to me tho!
good luck,
Nick.
02 October 2003, 10:34 AM
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My gloves are sexy as hell!!
Off to the shed, more pics later..
If anyone can correct what i have written or wants to add anything please do....
This engine will be thrown away once it is stripped completely... may keep the spare head.
Rob
Off to the shed, more pics later..
If anyone can correct what i have written or wants to add anything please do....
This engine will be thrown away once it is stripped completely... may keep the spare head.
Rob
02 October 2003, 11:19 AM
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that aint a legacy engine. rocker covers are different, horizontal ribs across legacy ones, and also two bolt holes for each coil pack. also, legacy has closed deck block.
ian
ian
02 October 2003, 12:38 PM
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Whatever it is it is f ucked
Some more pics....
There are 10 'hi torque' bolts altogether, 6 on one side and 4 on the other. This side is the one with 6...
2 bolts here.
and 2 on this side by the liners.
With all the bolts removed i started to split the block, each half has a alligning Dowel which holds the two halves together with the bolts out. I had to persuade the halves to seperate with a mallet.
You can see with the block split the Crank and journals...
I then removed the two rods that cam out with the seperation, can yu spot the difference
This is what a cast piston looks like, i was quite shocked at the weight compared to a Forged piston that Mark showed me
With the two rods removed and the other two caps taken off you can get a good view of the crank, notice the scoring... 1-0
And the Crank...
Here is the Block in half with no Crank in..
And the other way up, all pistons removed...
The two pistons and rods that were in the block were removed together as i was able to undo the rods bolts with the block split.
Here is a close up of one of the pistons, you can see clearly how the gudgeon pin is held in place...
Thats all for today people.... think i am gonna clear the shed up for next week.
Next week will involve an STi ver4 Engine and a WRX engine.. Going back into a typeR with a few changes..
Cheers for readiing.
Rob
p.s. any pic requests before i bin the engine??
Some more pics....
There are 10 'hi torque' bolts altogether, 6 on one side and 4 on the other. This side is the one with 6...
2 bolts here.
and 2 on this side by the liners.
With all the bolts removed i started to split the block, each half has a alligning Dowel which holds the two halves together with the bolts out. I had to persuade the halves to seperate with a mallet.
You can see with the block split the Crank and journals...
I then removed the two rods that cam out with the seperation, can yu spot the difference
This is what a cast piston looks like, i was quite shocked at the weight compared to a Forged piston that Mark showed me
With the two rods removed and the other two caps taken off you can get a good view of the crank, notice the scoring... 1-0
And the Crank...
Here is the Block in half with no Crank in..
And the other way up, all pistons removed...
The two pistons and rods that were in the block were removed together as i was able to undo the rods bolts with the block split.
Here is a close up of one of the pistons, you can see clearly how the gudgeon pin is held in place...
Thats all for today people.... think i am gonna clear the shed up for next week.
Next week will involve an STi ver4 Engine and a WRX engine.. Going back into a typeR with a few changes..
Cheers for readiing.
Rob
p.s. any pic requests before i bin the engine??
05 October 2003, 02:58 AM
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Is well worth doing if you want to see how everything really works.. However, it only takes about 2 hours from start to finish... Next one will take a bit longer
Rob
Rob
05 October 2003, 08:47 AM
#25
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Thats the idea with this one im getting, to see how it all goes, I will take plenty of pics etc
Im looking forward to the next one, heard a bit about it yesterday whilst helping Chris strip the running gear out of a scoob
Im looking forward to the next one, heard a bit about it yesterday whilst helping Chris strip the running gear out of a scoob
all in good time.
