2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker
#1
2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.
Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.
So the spec as follows:
EJ22 Block
RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Arrow Billet Crank 79mm
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump
Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?
Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.
So the spec as follows:
EJ22 Block
RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Arrow Billet Crank 79mm
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump
Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?
Last edited by juggers; 06 December 2016 at 08:09 PM.
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.
Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.
So the spec as follows:
RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Brian Cower or Manley 83mm Billet crank
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump
Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?
Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.
So the spec as follows:
RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Brian Cower or Manley 83mm Billet crank
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump
Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?
Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped
#4
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (68)
cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong
#6
cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong
Banny I don't want to go Meth I can't be pottering about with it in the boot and have kids in the car.
When you say block work - what is involved?
Also being a vet in this area what would be your ideal spec? Granted the objective is fast road car and not a track car.
Last edited by juggers; 06 November 2016 at 08:26 PM.
#7
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#8
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (68)
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)
J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.
In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.
J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.
In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.
#9
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)
J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.
In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.
J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.
In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.
Because you are taking the engine "out of square" it will not rev as freely as a shorter throw.
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
This is the engine Andy built for me
EJ22 block
block bored and faces skimmed
Rear thrust conversion
acl main bearings (race series)
Mahle motorsport big end bearings
ej257 heat treated crank
11 oil pump
Crower rods
Crower bolts
Ceramic omega pistons
New crank seals
14mm head stud conversion
AS Performance twinscroll baffled sump*
SPEC C Big port heads ported and polished
EJ22 block
block bored and faces skimmed
Rear thrust conversion
acl main bearings (race series)
Mahle motorsport big end bearings
ej257 heat treated crank
11 oil pump
Crower rods
Crower bolts
Ceramic omega pistons
New crank seals
14mm head stud conversion
AS Performance twinscroll baffled sump*
SPEC C Big port heads ported and polished
#13
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (68)
I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
#16
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closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)
No replacement for displacement
No replacement for displacement
#17
#18
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#25
Scooby Regular
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I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup