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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 06:12 PM
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Default 2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker

So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.

Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.

So the spec as follows:

EJ22 Block
RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Arrow Billet Crank 79mm
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump

Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?

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Last edited by juggers; Dec 6, 2016 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by juggers
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.

Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.

So the spec as follows:

RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Brian Cower or Manley 83mm Billet crank
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump

Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?


Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 07:59 PM
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Dont waste money on a billet crank.... no need for itm
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:16 PM
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cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rbon91
Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped
Andys doing my build to

Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Dont waste money on a billet crank.... no need for itm
If I go Billet I can get a 83mm crank in taking it from a 2.35 to 2.5 which will give me more torque
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong
Just the man!

Banny I don't want to go Meth I can't be pottering about with it in the boot and have kids in the car.

When you say block work - what is involved?

Also being a vet in this area what would be your ideal spec? Granted the objective is fast road car and not a track car.

Last edited by juggers; Nov 6, 2016 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by juggers
Andys doing my build to



If I go Billet I can get a 83mm crank in taking it from a 2.35 to 2.5 which will give me more torque
And if im not mistaken a lesser rev range...?

As banny says - dont bother. Costs involved vs gains are minimal...
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:28 PM
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Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)

J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.

In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)

J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.

In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.
Youre talking about notching the block out and all sorts. Its a big job.

Because you are taking the engine "out of square" it will not rev as freely as a shorter throw.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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This is the engine Andy built for me

EJ22 block
block bored and faces skimmed
Rear thrust conversion
acl main bearings (race series)
Mahle motorsport big end bearings
ej257 heat treated crank
11 oil pump
Crower rods
Crower bolts
Ceramic omega pistons
New crank seals
14mm head stud conversion
AS Performance twinscroll baffled sump*
SPEC C Big port heads ported and polished
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:05 PM
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You guys running 79mm cranks then?

You guys think the billet crank is overkill?

Last edited by juggers; Nov 7, 2016 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by juggers
You guess running 79mm cranks then?

You guys think the billet crank is overkill?
Probably don't need the Billet crank pal. My engine will do 600+ easy that's when the heads will run out. But bottom end is good for more than that. Maybe in a year or two I will get Andy to do me some heads

Ryan
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:24 PM
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I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.

Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:08 PM
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Thanks for the advice lads it's much appreciated.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 09:02 AM
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Subscribed.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 09:11 AM
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closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)

No replacement for displacement
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)

No replacement for displacement
Agreed, can't beat a big engine. No expense spared then get it linered
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by boosted
Agreed, can't beat a big engine. No expense spared then get it linered
for only 550 not even sure you'd need to go that extent. Although wouldn't hurt
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
for only 550 not even sure you'd need to go that extent. Although wouldn't hurt
Agree, objectives can be achieved in a simpler way, which is always handy when you are looking for reliability.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 10:19 AM
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https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...sion-woos.html
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)

No replacement for displacement

Thought about a 2.7 myself. Something different and out there
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 10:49 AM
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Interesting thread, I have already done a 2.5 rotated build, looking at minor changes will be looking on at this
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark10sti
Interesting thread, I have already done a 2.5 rotated build, looking at minor changes will be looking on at this
Just finished my 2.35 Borg rotated build. Just waiting to save for mapping now.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 11:41 AM
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Go with what is tested. 2.0 2.1 2.35.
There's a reason why all the big boys build to these specs. Because it works!
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.

Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
This
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by joe v3sti
Go with what is tested. 2.0 2.1 2.35.
There's a reason why all the big boys build to these specs. Because it works!
Agreed but not because it works...because there are less failures in general

Last edited by The Pink Ninja; Nov 7, 2016 at 08:34 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:37 PM
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But all of the above do work don't they. They are all tried and tested
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 11:58 PM
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The block has gone off for machining and Andy is going to provide me with a couple of different spec options.

Theres a lot of advice which is great, but a tad confusing to. I will posts some pics of the block once Andy sends them over.
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)
Agh ok I didn't know this was possible I assumed it had to have several maps.

Originally Posted by banny sti
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
Is this the same as an RCM baffled sump setup or different?
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 12:07 AM
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Just to throw another possible option in there. How about a billet block?
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