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juggers 06 November 2016 06:12 PM

2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker
 
5 Attachment(s)
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.

Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.

So the spec as follows:

EJ22 Block
RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Arrow Billet Crank 79mm
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump

Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?

Attachment 29097

Attachment 29098

Attachment 29099

Attachment 29100

Attachment 29101

Rbon91 06 November 2016 07:51 PM


Originally Posted by juggers (Post 11892013)
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.

Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable.

So the spec as follows:

RCM Omega Pistons
RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700)
Brian Cower or Manley 83mm Billet crank
RCM Baffle sump
RCM Oil pump

Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for?



Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped

JGlanzaV 06 November 2016 07:59 PM

Dont waste money on a billet crank.... no need for itm

banny sti 06 November 2016 08:16 PM

cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong

juggers 06 November 2016 08:17 PM


Originally Posted by Rbon91 (Post 11892033)
Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped

Andys doing my build to :notworthy


Originally Posted by JGlanzaV (Post 11892036)
Dont waste money on a billet crank.... no need for itm

If I go Billet I can get a 83mm crank in taking it from a 2.35 to 2.5 which will give me more torque :norty:

juggers 06 November 2016 08:23 PM


Originally Posted by banny sti (Post 11892039)
cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong

Just the man!

Banny I don't want to go Meth I can't be pottering about with it in the boot and have kids in the car.

When you say block work - what is involved?

Also being a vet in this area what would be your ideal spec? Granted the objective is fast road car and not a track car.

JGlanzaV 06 November 2016 08:23 PM


Originally Posted by juggers (Post 11892041)
Andys doing my build to :notworthy



If I go Billet I can get a 83mm crank in taking it from a 2.35 to 2.5 which will give me more torque :norty:

And if im not mistaken a lesser rev range...?

As banny says - dont bother. Costs involved vs gains are minimal...

banny sti 06 November 2016 08:28 PM

Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)

J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.

In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.

JGlanzaV 06 November 2016 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by banny sti (Post 11892046)
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)

J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive.

In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there.

Youre talking about notching the block out and all sorts. Its a big job.

Because you are taking the engine "out of square" it will not rev as freely as a shorter throw.

Rbon91 06 November 2016 08:47 PM

This is the engine Andy built for me

EJ22 block
block bored and faces skimmed
Rear thrust conversion
acl main bearings (race series)
Mahle motorsport big end bearings
ej257 heat treated crank
11 oil pump
Crower rods
Crower bolts
Ceramic omega pistons
New crank seals
14mm head stud conversion
AS Performance twinscroll baffled sump*
SPEC C Big port heads ported and polished

juggers 06 November 2016 09:05 PM

You guys running 79mm cranks then?

You guys think the billet crank is overkill?

Rbon91 06 November 2016 09:22 PM


Originally Posted by juggers (Post 11892060)
You guess running 79mm cranks then?

You guys think the billet crank is overkill?

Probably don't need the Billet crank pal. My engine will do 600+ easy that's when the heads will run out. But bottom end is good for more than that. Maybe in a year or two I will get Andy to do me some heads

Ryan

banny sti 06 November 2016 09:24 PM

I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.

Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup

juggers 06 November 2016 10:08 PM

Thanks for the advice lads it's much appreciated.

matt-c 07 November 2016 09:02 AM

Subscribed.

On-the-bog 07 November 2016 09:11 AM

closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)

No replacement for displacement ;)

boosted 07 November 2016 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by On-the-bog (Post 11892159)
closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)

No replacement for displacement ;)

Agreed, can't beat a big engine. No expense spared then get it linered

On-the-bog 07 November 2016 09:38 AM


Originally Posted by boosted (Post 11892163)
Agreed, can't beat a big engine. No expense spared then get it linered

for only 550 not even sure you'd need to go that extent. Although wouldn't hurt

matt-c 07 November 2016 09:41 AM


Originally Posted by On-the-bog (Post 11892170)
for only 550 not even sure you'd need to go that extent. Although wouldn't hurt

Agree, objectives can be achieved in a simpler way, which is always handy when you are looking for reliability.

banny sti 07 November 2016 10:19 AM

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...sion-woos.html

Rbon91 07 November 2016 10:35 AM


Originally Posted by On-the-bog (Post 11892159)
closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)

No replacement for displacement ;)


Thought about a 2.7 myself. Something different and out there

Mark10sti 07 November 2016 10:49 AM

Interesting thread, I have already done a 2.5 rotated build, looking at minor changes will be looking on at this

Rbon91 07 November 2016 10:56 AM


Originally Posted by Mark10sti (Post 11892219)
Interesting thread, I have already done a 2.5 rotated build, looking at minor changes will be looking on at this

Just finished my 2.35 Borg rotated build. Just waiting to save for mapping now.

joe v3sti 07 November 2016 11:41 AM

Go with what is tested. 2.0 2.1 2.35.
There's a reason why all the big boys build to these specs. Because it works!

IainMilford 07 November 2016 01:11 PM


Originally Posted by banny sti (Post 11892073)
I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.

Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup

This :thumb:

The Pink Ninja 07 November 2016 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by joe v3sti (Post 11892242)
Go with what is tested. 2.0 2.1 2.35.
There's a reason why all the big boys build to these specs. Because it works!

Agreed but not because it works...because there are less failures in general

joe v3sti 07 November 2016 08:37 PM

But all of the above do work don't they. They are all tried and tested

juggers 07 November 2016 11:58 PM

The block has gone off for machining and Andy is going to provide me with a couple of different spec options.

Theres a lot of advice which is great, but a tad confusing to. I will posts some pics of the block once Andy sends them over.

juggers 08 November 2016 12:04 AM


Originally Posted by banny sti (Post 11892046)
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)

Agh ok I didn't know this was possible I assumed it had to have several maps.


Originally Posted by banny sti (Post 11892073)
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup

Is this the same as an RCM baffled sump setup or different?

On-the-bog 08 November 2016 12:07 AM

Just to throw another possible option in there. How about a billet block?


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