2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker
5 Attachment(s)
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.
Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable. So the spec as follows: EJ22 Block RCM Omega Pistons RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700) Arrow Billet Crank 79mm RCM Baffle sump RCM Oil pump Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for? Attachment 29097 Attachment 29098 Attachment 29099 Attachment 29100 Attachment 29101 |
Originally Posted by juggers
(Post 11892013)
So looks as though this 2.xx build is going to kick off. I am looking for as much advice from those who have done it previously.
Objective: Quick spool, 550bhp/550ltb and reliable. So the spec as follows: RCM Omega Pistons RCM Arrow rods (Is it worth going for the M2700) Brian Cower or Manley 83mm Billet crank RCM Baffle sump RCM Oil pump Anybody got any recommendations and things to look out for? Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped |
Dont waste money on a billet crank.... no need for itm
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cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong
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Originally Posted by Rbon91
(Post 11892033)
Andy Williams from WMS built mine pal. 2.35 stroker. And I've lit a rotated Borg Warner turbo on the car. Hoping for 550/550 when mapped
Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
(Post 11892036)
Dont waste money on a billet crank.... no need for itm
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Originally Posted by banny sti
(Post 11892039)
cant use a 83mm crank without block work, if you're using an Ej22 block then keep it simple and use a 79mm crank and go 2.35. Its proven and it works, build with high compression and use good fuel i.e v power + meth to get the best from the high compression and you cant go wrong
Banny I don't want to go Meth I can't be pottering about with it in the boot and have kids in the car. When you say block work - what is involved? Also being a vet in this area what would be your ideal spec? Granted the objective is fast road car and not a track car. |
Originally Posted by juggers
(Post 11892041)
Andys doing my build to :notworthy
If I go Billet I can get a 83mm crank in taking it from a 2.35 to 2.5 which will give me more torque :norty: As banny says - dont bother. Costs involved vs gains are minimal... |
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)
J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive. In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there. |
Originally Posted by banny sti
(Post 11892046)
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)
J is right to some extent you will lose some top end as the increased air flow from the larger capacity will shift the power band to left i.e quicker spool but tails off quicker at top. Yes you can run a bigger turbo to shift it more to the right again. However its a fine balance and you have to have a firm idea in your head exactly how you wan the car to drive. In regards to modding the block from my conversations with Mikee it needs modifying to accomodate such a big crank and no matter how to cut it a bigger crank will not feel as revvy as a shorter stroke. I never got into specifics about the mods as it wasnt worth it with whats already out there. Because you are taking the engine "out of square" it will not rev as freely as a shorter throw. |
This is the engine Andy built for me
EJ22 block block bored and faces skimmed Rear thrust conversion acl main bearings (race series) Mahle motorsport big end bearings ej257 heat treated crank 11 oil pump Crower rods Crower bolts Ceramic omega pistons New crank seals 14mm head stud conversion AS Performance twinscroll baffled sump* SPEC C Big port heads ported and polished |
You guys running 79mm cranks then?
You guys think the billet crank is overkill? |
Originally Posted by juggers
(Post 11892060)
You guess running 79mm cranks then?
You guys think the billet crank is overkill? Ryan |
I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup |
Thanks for the advice lads it's much appreciated.
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Subscribed.
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closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)
No replacement for displacement ;) |
Originally Posted by On-the-bog
(Post 11892159)
closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)
No replacement for displacement ;) |
Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11892163)
Agreed, can't beat a big engine. No expense spared then get it linered
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
(Post 11892170)
for only 550 not even sure you'd need to go that extent. Although wouldn't hurt
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
(Post 11892159)
closed deck 2.5 will do 550 without shatting itself, maybe chuck the cosworth 2.7 kit at it. (pretty sure it was cosworth)
No replacement for displacement ;) Thought about a 2.7 myself. Something different and out there |
Interesting thread, I have already done a 2.5 rotated build, looking at minor changes will be looking on at this
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Originally Posted by Mark10sti
(Post 11892219)
Interesting thread, I have already done a 2.5 rotated build, looking at minor changes will be looking on at this
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Go with what is tested. 2.0 2.1 2.35.
There's a reason why all the big boys build to these specs. Because it works! |
Originally Posted by banny sti
(Post 11892073)
I ran a factory 79mm crank on mine and got up to 668bhp and there was no issues, pretty sure Andy F has ran close 900bhp with one. Billet crank is if you have deep pockets and dont mind over speccing for the sake of it.
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup |
Originally Posted by joe v3sti
(Post 11892242)
Go with what is tested. 2.0 2.1 2.35.
There's a reason why all the big boys build to these specs. Because it works! |
But all of the above do work don't they. They are all tried and tested
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The block has gone off for machining and Andy is going to provide me with a couple of different spec options.
Theres a lot of advice which is great, but a tad confusing to. I will posts some pics of the block once Andy sends them over. |
Originally Posted by banny sti
(Post 11892046)
Bro you're not sparing any expense get a flex fuel sensor on it, it will only need mapping with the mixture and then auto adjust there after when you choose to use it (syvecs of course)
Originally Posted by banny sti
(Post 11892073)
Forget the baffle plate its pointless, best off going for a full on baffled sump and a decent return to sump catch can setup
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Just to throw another possible option in there. How about a billet block?
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