Zafira Diesal advice
09 December 2010, 09:55 AM
#1
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Zafira Diesal advice
Guys just picked wife up a 2nd hand zafira Elite on an 08, she doesnt do massive mileage but she does do more than a school run house wife, as shes an athletics coach.
I know that if u runa diesal and do no mileage u can get blocked filters and have a hefty bill to replace .
Anyone advise me on how this happens is it for the school run wives only ?
I will use it to go to london in and clear its throat now and again.
but just wanted a steer
Didnt want petrol as ive always wanted a oil burner to compensate my 2011 saloon, but also the 150 BHP engines ive always liked
I know that if u runa diesal and do no mileage u can get blocked filters and have a hefty bill to replace .
Anyone advise me on how this happens is it for the school run wives only ?
I will use it to go to london in and clear its throat now and again.
but just wanted a steer
Didnt want petrol as ive always wanted a oil burner to compensate my 2011 saloon, but also the 150 BHP engines ive always liked
Last edited by Littleted; 09 December 2010 at 09:56 AM.
09 December 2010, 10:44 AM
#3
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Also if you get the particular filter light on take it a long drive straight away as about 400 quid from Vauxhall, plus if your good with spanners clean out the EGR assembly maybe once a year
09 December 2010, 11:16 AM
#4
Cars used for short jorneys be it petrol or diesel suffer big style.
Firstly we have the oil - it never gets up to temperature to boil off any condensation (water is one by-product of combustion) or unburnt fuel that finds it way in there, which makes it corrosive. This causes the oil to break down and cause corrosion, sluge and foaming (white gunk) making people think a head gasket has failed (it hasn't). This is why cars used on short jorneys need the oil changed MORE often than cars that do lots of motorway work. Problem is most people do the opposite thinking "oh, I only do a few miles in it, so don't need to service it".
Secondly. Combustion; a cold enigine does not combust fuel properly; Deisel especially, as when cold, the fuel doesn't atomise or ignite properly. A proportion of partially burnt fuel ends up in the exhaust or hangs around in the combustion chamber, causing bore wash (washing oil off the cylinder bore), and excessive carbon deposits, fouling injector tips, exhaust valves, EGR valves, turbo blades etc. Fouled injectors manifiest the issues further s they no longer spray correctly, so the engine doesn't burn fuel correctly, so produces more deposits.
If its a diesel with a particulate filter this can clog as the engine is producing more particluates than normal and car is rarely driven in conditions that allow it to "regenerate". Basically the ECU adjusts the fuel injection timing which allows fuel to burn in the exhaust - burning off particulates in the filter (some engines, like those made by PSA like Ford, Fiat and Puegeot, use an additive that is also injected, this need to be replenished every service). A dealer repairs a clogged particulate filter by replacing it (expensive), however they can be cleaned out with use of a steam cleaner and truck wash concentrate (this is what you sometimes see sold as "reconditioned" particulate filters
Not a problem as long as the seller lets you know all that they did was wash it out, and not replaced the internal susbstrate).
The cure? Prevention:
Make sure the engine gets ran up to full operating temperate at the very least once a week. This is a minimum of 30minutes. Probably longer at this time of year with a diesel as they take longer to heat up. Then driven at a sustained speed (50mph+) for at least another 30mins. That should be enough to boil off any nasties that build up in the oil and clear out any excess fuel in the combustion chambers and exhaust.
Certainly a sustained run up the motorway will do no harm once the engine is up to temperature. And making use of the full rev range through the gears every now and again (Italian tune up).
Firstly we have the oil - it never gets up to temperature to boil off any condensation (water is one by-product of combustion) or unburnt fuel that finds it way in there, which makes it corrosive. This causes the oil to break down and cause corrosion, sluge and foaming (white gunk) making people think a head gasket has failed (it hasn't). This is why cars used on short jorneys need the oil changed MORE often than cars that do lots of motorway work. Problem is most people do the opposite thinking "oh, I only do a few miles in it, so don't need to service it".
Secondly. Combustion; a cold enigine does not combust fuel properly; Deisel especially, as when cold, the fuel doesn't atomise or ignite properly. A proportion of partially burnt fuel ends up in the exhaust or hangs around in the combustion chamber, causing bore wash (washing oil off the cylinder bore), and excessive carbon deposits, fouling injector tips, exhaust valves, EGR valves, turbo blades etc. Fouled injectors manifiest the issues further s they no longer spray correctly, so the engine doesn't burn fuel correctly, so produces more deposits.
If its a diesel with a particulate filter this can clog as the engine is producing more particluates than normal and car is rarely driven in conditions that allow it to "regenerate". Basically the ECU adjusts the fuel injection timing which allows fuel to burn in the exhaust - burning off particulates in the filter (some engines, like those made by PSA like Ford, Fiat and Puegeot, use an additive that is also injected, this need to be replenished every service). A dealer repairs a clogged particulate filter by replacing it (expensive), however they can be cleaned out with use of a steam cleaner and truck wash concentrate (this is what you sometimes see sold as "reconditioned" particulate filters
Not a problem as long as the seller lets you know all that they did was wash it out, and not replaced the internal susbstrate).The cure? Prevention:
Make sure the engine gets ran up to full operating temperate at the very least once a week. This is a minimum of 30minutes. Probably longer at this time of year with a diesel as they take longer to heat up. Then driven at a sustained speed (50mph+) for at least another 30mins. That should be enough to boil off any nasties that build up in the oil and clear out any excess fuel in the combustion chambers and exhaust.
Certainly a sustained run up the motorway will do no harm once the engine is up to temperature. And making use of the full rev range through the gears every now and again (Italian tune up).
Last edited by ALi-B; 09 December 2010 at 11:52 AM.
09 December 2010, 11:38 AM
#5
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On short journeys just keep the revs up by using 2nd gear rather than 4th for example. That is just the same thing as a higher speed on a motorway but, of course, you will use more fuel doing this. dl
09 December 2010, 07:00 PM
#6
I too used to own a Zafira diesel (08 sri xp)
It'll do no harm to take on a quick motorway jaunt now and again to 'clear its throat'
The zafiras have a system that 'cleans' the DPF automatically. It does this every so often by letting the engine get quite hot thus burning off the deposits. When it does this the DPF light comes on, if it does keep the revs above 2k until it gos out.
It'll do no harm to take on a quick motorway jaunt now and again to 'clear its throat'
The zafiras have a system that 'cleans' the DPF automatically. It does this every so often by letting the engine get quite hot thus burning off the deposits. When it does this the DPF light comes on, if it does keep the revs above 2k until it gos out.
09 December 2010, 10:14 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Cars used for short jorneys be it petrol or diesel suffer big style.
Firstly we have the oil - it never gets up to temperature to boil off any condensation (water is one by-product of combustion) or unburnt fuel that finds it way in there, which makes it corrosive. This causes the oil to break down and cause corrosion, sluge and foaming (white gunk) making people think a head gasket has failed (it hasn't). This is why cars used on short jorneys need the oil changed MORE often than cars that do lots of motorway work. Problem is most people do the opposite thinking "oh, I only do a few miles in it, so don't need to service it".
Secondly. Combustion; a cold enigine does not combust fuel properly; Deisel especially, as when cold, the fuel doesn't atomise or ignite properly. A proportion of partially burnt fuel ends up in the exhaust or hangs around in the combustion chamber, causing bore wash (washing oil off the cylinder bore), and excessive carbon deposits, fouling injector tips, exhaust valves, EGR valves, turbo blades etc. Fouled injectors manifiest the issues further s they no longer spray correctly, so the engine doesn't burn fuel correctly, so produces more deposits.
If its a diesel with a particulate filter this can clog as the engine is producing more particluates than normal and car is rarely driven in conditions that allow it to "regenerate". Basically the ECU adjusts the fuel injection timing which allows fuel to burn in the exhaust - burning off particulates in the filter (some engines, like those made by PSA like Ford, Fiat and Puegeot, use an additive that is also injected, this need to be replenished every service). A dealer repairs a clogged particulate filter by replacing it (expensive), however they can be cleaned out with use of a steam cleaner and truck wash concentrate (this is what you sometimes see sold as "reconditioned" particulate filters Not a problem as long as the seller lets you know all that they did was wash it out, and not replaced the internal susbstrate).
The cure? Prevention:
Make sure the engine gets ran up to full operating temperate at the very least once a week. This is a minimum of 30minutes. Probably longer at this time of year with a diesel as they take longer to heat up. Then driven at a sustained speed (50mph+) for at least another 30mins. That should be enough to boil off any nasties that build up in the oil and clear out any excess fuel in the combustion chambers and exhaust.
Certainly a sustained run up the motorway will do no harm once the engine is up to temperature. And making use of the full rev range through the gears every now and again (Italian tune up).
Firstly we have the oil - it never gets up to temperature to boil off any condensation (water is one by-product of combustion) or unburnt fuel that finds it way in there, which makes it corrosive. This causes the oil to break down and cause corrosion, sluge and foaming (white gunk) making people think a head gasket has failed (it hasn't). This is why cars used on short jorneys need the oil changed MORE often than cars that do lots of motorway work. Problem is most people do the opposite thinking "oh, I only do a few miles in it, so don't need to service it".
Secondly. Combustion; a cold enigine does not combust fuel properly; Deisel especially, as when cold, the fuel doesn't atomise or ignite properly. A proportion of partially burnt fuel ends up in the exhaust or hangs around in the combustion chamber, causing bore wash (washing oil off the cylinder bore), and excessive carbon deposits, fouling injector tips, exhaust valves, EGR valves, turbo blades etc. Fouled injectors manifiest the issues further s they no longer spray correctly, so the engine doesn't burn fuel correctly, so produces more deposits.
If its a diesel with a particulate filter this can clog as the engine is producing more particluates than normal and car is rarely driven in conditions that allow it to "regenerate". Basically the ECU adjusts the fuel injection timing which allows fuel to burn in the exhaust - burning off particulates in the filter (some engines, like those made by PSA like Ford, Fiat and Puegeot, use an additive that is also injected, this need to be replenished every service). A dealer repairs a clogged particulate filter by replacing it (expensive), however they can be cleaned out with use of a steam cleaner and truck wash concentrate (this is what you sometimes see sold as "reconditioned" particulate filters
Not a problem as long as the seller lets you know all that they did was wash it out, and not replaced the internal susbstrate).The cure? Prevention:
Make sure the engine gets ran up to full operating temperate at the very least once a week. This is a minimum of 30minutes. Probably longer at this time of year with a diesel as they take longer to heat up. Then driven at a sustained speed (50mph+) for at least another 30mins. That should be enough to boil off any nasties that build up in the oil and clear out any excess fuel in the combustion chambers and exhaust.
Certainly a sustained run up the motorway will do no harm once the engine is up to temperature. And making use of the full rev range through the gears every now and again (Italian tune up).
Thanks all, Ali can i ask you a mechanic ? you have some nice responces m8 keep it up.
Took the car out today very nice i must say love the heated seats hlps melt the germaloids
Taks again
Ted
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09 December 2010, 10:32 PM
#8
Yes and no: The family business is a car repairer, so its in the blood so to speak (been going for 55 odd years now
). I still have dealings there on and off in the background running of things (I work in the office directly next door ), however most of the mechanical work I do there these days is on my own cars. Just to complicate it though, my dad was a builder and I'm educated in electronics, manufacturing and HVAC. Yet I mostly work in accounts and IT these days (
). I would still rather work on cars though if it paid enough. 
10 December 2010, 12:00 AM
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Yes and no: The family business is a car repairer, so its in the blood so to speak (been going for 55 odd years now ). I still have dealings there on and off in the background running of things (I work in the office directly next door ), however most of the mechanical work I do there these days is on my own cars.
Just to complicate it though, my dad was a builder and I'm educated in electronics, manufacturing and HVAC. Yet I mostly work in accounts and IT these days ( ). I would still rather work on cars though if it paid enough.
). I still have dealings there on and off in the background running of things (I work in the office directly next door ), however most of the mechanical work I do there these days is on my own cars. Just to complicate it though, my dad was a builder and I'm educated in electronics, manufacturing and HVAC. Yet I mostly work in accounts and IT these days (
). I would still rather work on cars though if it paid enough. 
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