R32 Skyline GTR - Whos had one and what to expect?
#1
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R32 Skyline GTR - Whos had one and what to expect?
Still playing around with different cars and one car that pops up is the R32 GTR.
I don't want a 33 as it looks too big for West Wales B roads and can't afford a 34 which also seems too big.
Anyway, decent 32s seem very cheap and I've found one fresh import that looks very good and is a very good price too.
Strictly weekend use. Would like a completely standard looking black R32 with deep white Rays alloys and good useable power - nothing bonkers or a PITA to drive.
Going to pop over the the GTR forum and have a look round.
I don't want a 33 as it looks too big for West Wales B roads and can't afford a 34 which also seems too big.
Anyway, decent 32s seem very cheap and I've found one fresh import that looks very good and is a very good price too.
Strictly weekend use. Would like a completely standard looking black R32 with deep white Rays alloys and good useable power - nothing bonkers or a PITA to drive.
Going to pop over the the GTR forum and have a look round.
#2
I've got a 33 which is physically a big car but genuinely doesn't feel it when you're hooning around (although all the controls are "meaty").
Generally things to watch for: everything, it will all cost you a fortune when you add on the Skyline tax.
I spent ages finding the right car, saved some cash to pay for a few extras (induction, exhaust, PowerFC and remap coming in at about £700 plus £500 for fitting and setup) which then caused the standard clutch to start slipping so I bunged in a Nismo twin plate @ £650. And that was just 1 week. Now the back end is grumbling and I still want more power and better looks and bigger wheels and better handling and better brakes.
Stay away and buy a diesel Rover
Generally things to watch for: everything, it will all cost you a fortune when you add on the Skyline tax.
I spent ages finding the right car, saved some cash to pay for a few extras (induction, exhaust, PowerFC and remap coming in at about £700 plus £500 for fitting and setup) which then caused the standard clutch to start slipping so I bunged in a Nismo twin plate @ £650. And that was just 1 week. Now the back end is grumbling and I still want more power and better looks and bigger wheels and better handling and better brakes.
Stay away and buy a diesel Rover
#3
On a more serious note:
The engines are pretty bomb proof in standard tune but check the usual things like oil level and condition. The filters on these are tiny (same as 1.4 Almera and some Micras) so make sure they've been changed regularly.
The gearboxes are heavy when cold and can be crunchy but should be fine when warm. You need to do some high rev changes from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th (above 4000rpm IIRC) to check properly. You'll need a long, straight, police-free stretch of road for this.
Check that the 4WD and HICAS lights come on with the ignition and go off once the engine is running.
Check for smoke on boost that may indicate worn turbos, but it can be hard to spot. Mine "uses" a bit of oil and only has ~60k on it.
Brakes are a bit underpowered on 32's so may be warped and/or pads shagged.
The guy that fitted my clutch told me he was starting to do welding jobs on R33's now as they were starting to rust underneath, I don't know if this affects 32's as well.
Otherwise, check everything you'd check on a normal car but do it twice as thouroughly but remember these ar old cars and are almost certain to have had paint and panel repairs. Look for real heavy damage, though.
The engines are pretty bomb proof in standard tune but check the usual things like oil level and condition. The filters on these are tiny (same as 1.4 Almera and some Micras) so make sure they've been changed regularly.
The gearboxes are heavy when cold and can be crunchy but should be fine when warm. You need to do some high rev changes from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th (above 4000rpm IIRC) to check properly. You'll need a long, straight, police-free stretch of road for this.
Check that the 4WD and HICAS lights come on with the ignition and go off once the engine is running.
Check for smoke on boost that may indicate worn turbos, but it can be hard to spot. Mine "uses" a bit of oil and only has ~60k on it.
Brakes are a bit underpowered on 32's so may be warped and/or pads shagged.
The guy that fitted my clutch told me he was starting to do welding jobs on R33's now as they were starting to rust underneath, I don't know if this affects 32's as well.
Otherwise, check everything you'd check on a normal car but do it twice as thouroughly but remember these ar old cars and are almost certain to have had paint and panel repairs. Look for real heavy damage, though.
#5
Scooby Regular
32s look far smaller than they are because a smaller percentage of the car is cabin compared to a 33, they are cosy inside
IMO they are also the best looking of the lot and one is definitely on my slowly shortening 'must own' list
If the car you are looking at is only just over from Japan, corrosion shouldn't be as big a concern as it would be if you were looking at one that's been in the UK for a while, it's the **** that councils put on the roads to protect stupid people from themselves that kills cars in the UK
IMO they are also the best looking of the lot and one is definitely on my slowly shortening 'must own' list
If the car you are looking at is only just over from Japan, corrosion shouldn't be as big a concern as it would be if you were looking at one that's been in the UK for a while, it's the **** that councils put on the roads to protect stupid people from themselves that kills cars in the UK
#6
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What about an R34GTS not the GTR, these are loads cheaper and with a bit of tuning just as quick as the GTR - although maybe not the potential of the GTR, depends onhow fast you want to go
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07 October 2015 12:33 PM