Tommy mac boost problem
#1
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Tommy mac boost problem
A mate of mine has just bought a low miles, well specced mac that is boosting to exactly 0.7bar. The cars had a fair bit of work done (exhaust, pump, bigger cooler, earthing kit, filter)and has been well looked after so we are a bit stumped . The guy that had it last was about 50 and had the shift light set at 6000 so was obviously very careful. Does anyone know
Were we can find the ecu to see if it has been changed
What a standard mac boosts to (around 1.2?)
Whether reseting the ecu may help and whether this is easy?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Note. We could not locate a bleed valve or visible boost controller.
Were we can find the ecu to see if it has been changed
What a standard mac boosts to (around 1.2?)
Whether reseting the ecu may help and whether this is easy?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Note. We could not locate a bleed valve or visible boost controller.
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Sounds possibly like a faulty actuator, these are set in an upside down position and they tend to fill with water then rust over time, if this is your problem get one from a 7 or an 8 instead. The ECU is behind the left hand / passenger side black plastic cover in the footwell, the one where the flare fits in. Take of the cover and it's about 4" up and it's held in by two 10mm bolts, if it's a standard type it'll have a Mitsubishi number starting with a number 5 on the top row. I think she should be boosting at around 1 bar but many boost at 1.2 when modded, do not mess with the ECU unless you know what you are doing.......expensive to replace!!!
Dave.
Dave.
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Its bang on 0.7 so id imagine its set at that or its running safe. I will chech actuator though, no way of pulling out a fuse to reset these then, mr2 turbo stylee?
Cheers for the feedback by the by
Cheers for the feedback by the by
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No, the MR2 fuse trick won't work with this as it doesn't sound like a fault to be honest. It may well have been set to .7 or it's possibly the original actuator that's become a little tired over the years.......do try to get it up to 1.2 though as it's a lot more fun
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if it's been set to 0.7 it should slam the needle round to there if you WOT it at 5k, if it's a leaky wastegate etc it should struggle to get there a the turbo is having to work overtime to make it.
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Remap has set factory boost controller to a different level.
Have you got an ECU light on ignition that goes off with engine start?
I know someone with one so I'll ask him tomorrow where all the bits are and what to check.
Have you got an ECU light on ignition that goes off with engine start?
I know someone with one so I'll ask him tomorrow where all the bits are and what to check.
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If she's running sweetly i'd either leave it alone but DO NOT alter the boost yourself as you may f*ck your engine unless your fueling is up to the mark. It's the easiest thing in the world tp up your boost with a bleed valve but when she goes bang it's damn expensive!!!! I have just had to have one of my Evos rebuilt as the boost was set too high in Japan where the petrol was much better than ours
It'll cost around £700ish for a decent boost controller and set up........far cheaper than the detonation and bang!!!!!
It'll cost around £700ish for a decent boost controller and set up........far cheaper than the detonation and bang!!!!!
#12
Do you know if the previous owner had a boost controller fitted ?
0.7 bar is the boost an Evo will run if the p-jet restrictor has been removed from the boost control pipework (fitted within the pipe from the turbo nipple to the t-piece which then connects to the actuator)
This restrictor (along with the grommet in the standard boost solenoid would have been removed if a boost controller was fitted. What then happens is the owner returns the car to standard and forgets about the restrictors.
If the restrictors are inplace then the next step is to get the actuator checked.
ECU is located on the passenger side to the left of the glove box, details on my website
0.7 bar is the boost an Evo will run if the p-jet restrictor has been removed from the boost control pipework (fitted within the pipe from the turbo nipple to the t-piece which then connects to the actuator)
This restrictor (along with the grommet in the standard boost solenoid would have been removed if a boost controller was fitted. What then happens is the owner returns the car to standard and forgets about the restrictors.
If the restrictors are inplace then the next step is to get the actuator checked.
ECU is located on the passenger side to the left of the glove box, details on my website
Last edited by Spanpodyv; 20 May 2006 at 04:01 PM.
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