Pinto engine sump oil leak
#1
Pinto engine sump oil leak
I have just bought a Fisher Fury for hillclimb use with a 2 lt Pinto engine. It leaked oil and while cleaning it up I've found most of the sump attachment bolts were loose. I've tightened these up as best I can but it's not easy as they are small bolts and very close to the sump. Also the starter motor blocks access to three bolts and one is just hanging loose.
Has anyone any experience of the best way to stop them getting loose again.eg spring washers. I'd rather not take the sump off right now. Also is the starter motor any problem to take off and replace to allow access to the last 3 bolts.
Thanks for any help.
John
Has anyone any experience of the best way to stop them getting loose again.eg spring washers. I'd rather not take the sump off right now. Also is the starter motor any problem to take off and replace to allow access to the last 3 bolts.
Thanks for any help.
John
#2
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (1)
You really want to use allen headed bolts and small washers (to stop them eating into the alloy), so a proper drive extension will be needed, rather than a 'allen key'.
The torque on these is quite low, so it wont hurt to use some lock-tight on the threads.
Changing the sump in situ was a PITA on the RS2000, as you have to separte it from the gearbox to get to the reat two bolts eiether side of the rear bearing carrier.
Best bet is to buy a new gasket and see what I mean for the bolt positions.
The start is three bolts and it just moves out of the way (dependent on clearance under you engine bay).
Hope that helps?
Also,
The sump bolts are an m6 thread.
The torque on these is quite low, so it wont hurt to use some lock-tight on the threads.
Changing the sump in situ was a PITA on the RS2000, as you have to separte it from the gearbox to get to the reat two bolts eiether side of the rear bearing carrier.
Best bet is to buy a new gasket and see what I mean for the bolt positions.
The start is three bolts and it just moves out of the way (dependent on clearance under you engine bay).
Hope that helps?
Also,
The sump bolts are an m6 thread.
Last edited by Hol; 23 September 2004 at 01:14 PM. Reason: The Bolt sizes
#3
Thanks Hol,
Thats what I was also told by a pal. Are the bolts into the gearbox tapped into the gearbox so it just comes away or are they into nuts on the other side?
I managed to tighten all but one and will see if they loosen for the last sprint ar Alford and then try for a permanent fix over the winter with new allen bolts and lock-tight.
Thanks for the help
John
Thats what I was also told by a pal. Are the bolts into the gearbox tapped into the gearbox so it just comes away or are they into nuts on the other side?
I managed to tighten all but one and will see if they loosen for the last sprint ar Alford and then try for a permanent fix over the winter with new allen bolts and lock-tight.
Thanks for the help
John
#4
the two bolts at the back need a small socket set and extention to get to easily. It's a while since i looked at a pinto bottom end but i am fairly sure you could drop the sump with the gearbox still there if you had a long enough small socket. As mentioned, swap for some allen bolts with spring washers and a normal washer between the spring washer and the sump.
There is a book by david vizard about tuning and rebuilding pinto's, its well worth buying. http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...438635-2415667
There is a book by david vizard about tuning and rebuilding pinto's, its well worth buying. http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...438635-2415667
#5
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (1)
It's been a while !!!
Originally Posted by johnfelstead
It's a while since i looked at a pinto bottom end
Yup, that about covers it for me too.
I just found an old alloy sump in my shed and as john says you should be able to get them with a long 1/4 or 3/8 extension bar. They should also be on the 'good' side of what we used to affectionately call the '$hit plate'. Its the bit of metal designed to sandwich between egine and bell housing to keep the road crud out.
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