Leather cleaners
13 May 2003, 08:39 AM
#1
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Can anyone recommend a good leather cleaner, for leather sofas and leather interior of cars ??
I was given
some stuff from Ikea, but as usual it was cr3p 
TIA
I was given
some stuff from Ikea, but as usual it was cr3p TIA
13 May 2003, 10:10 AM
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Liquid Leather products from Gliptone. I've used them in my cars for ages and they are spot-on, and not that expensive either.
LiquidLeather
Fen
LiquidLeather
Fen
even though like an ar$e I posted this in the wrong forum 
13 May 2003, 10:30 PM
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I tried the AutoGlym leather care. It was hopeless on my 12 year old cream seats and it leaves a coating that I later found was the cause of a sweaty back (stopped the leather from breathing).
It took loads of work to get the AutoGlym off with the Gliptone stuff, but it got all the dirt off the seats as well. They also do recolouring kits which coloured back the cracks (as I said this leather is 12 years old and it is cream). Finally the conditioner is absorbed, makes the leather feel noticeably suppler and doesn't coat it, so I don't get a sticky back after a long drive.
That said the AutoGlym stuff was OK on brand new half-leather seats.
Fen
It took loads of work to get the AutoGlym off with the Gliptone stuff, but it got all the dirt off the seats as well. They also do recolouring kits which coloured back the cracks (as I said this leather is 12 years old and it is cream). Finally the conditioner is absorbed, makes the leather feel noticeably suppler and doesn't coat it, so I don't get a sticky back after a long drive.
That said the AutoGlym stuff was OK on brand new half-leather seats.
Fen
14 May 2003, 09:46 AM
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I use Swissol on the missus car, managed to sort out the curry stain on her cream leather
http://www.swissol.com/E/GB/Produkte_Leder1.htm
[Edited by gregh - 5/14/2003 9:46:57 AM]
http://www.swissol.com/E/GB/Produkte_Leder1.htm
[Edited by gregh - 5/14/2003 9:46:57 AM]
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15 May 2003, 01:09 AM
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Information contained below re-printed by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 1993.
Johnsons baby shampoo and water is better than anything mentioned so far.
.. clean it like that.
.. let it dry slowly... then get some Johnsons baby oil and from 'The Body Shop' buy some Vitamin E enriched oil... mix them up and gently rub that in and then gently remove the excess with clean cloths.
.. the leather will smell like a recent rub down in a Turkish brothel and will have a glorious softness and suppleness for about 6 months.
.. then you do it again.
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 5:58:06 PM]
Johnsons baby shampoo and water is better than anything mentioned so far.
.. clean it like that.
.. let it dry slowly... then get some Johnsons baby oil and from 'The Body Shop' buy some Vitamin E enriched oil... mix them up and gently rub that in and then gently remove the excess with clean cloths.
.. the leather will smell like a recent rub down in a Turkish brothel and will have a glorious softness and suppleness for about 6 months.
.. then you do it again.
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 5:58:06 PM]
15 May 2003, 11:41 AM
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After you've cleaned it, treat it with Conolly Hide Food. Was only available on-line until the company went bust but I gather you can get it from Jag dealers now.
Cheers
Kav
Cheers
Kav
15 May 2003, 11:53 AM
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Mycroft,
From the liquid leather site
"Soap and water MUST NOT be used to clean leather as it will shrink and harden it. Greasy, waxy oils, pastes and balsams will attract dust and dirt which adheres to the finish and is then driven into the leather by your bottom!"
From the liquid leather site
"Soap and water MUST NOT be used to clean leather as it will shrink and harden it. Greasy, waxy oils, pastes and balsams will attract dust and dirt which adheres to the finish and is then driven into the leather by your bottom!"
15 May 2003, 12:30 PM
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Information contained below by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 2003.
Soap can be bad... Johnsons Baby shampoo is not bad at all also saddle soap works well... though a little too smelly for my liking...
The sites that say don't use soap and water are 'stretching' things a little... to allow for the person who may be dumb enough to get a Bar of 'Camay' or 'Imperial leather' and lather up the damned seats that way!!! hahaha
Staggeringly there are people who would do that... hard to believe but true... hahaha
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 12:30:56 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 5:59:24 PM]
Soap can be bad... Johnsons Baby shampoo is not bad at all also saddle soap works well... though a little too smelly for my liking...
The sites that say don't use soap and water are 'stretching' things a little... to allow for the person who may be dumb enough to get a Bar of 'Camay' or 'Imperial leather' and lather up the damned seats that way!!! hahaha
Staggeringly there are people who would do that... hard to believe but true... hahaha
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 12:30:56 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 5:59:24 PM]
15 May 2003, 12:41 PM
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Information contained below by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 2003.
Unless you own a car from the 60's or before or you own a Rolls Royce or Bentley you will never force anything except hard objects into the leather... people often think that the surface they touch is the 'skin' of the animal... for almost all cars Worldwide this is not the case... all the dyes and finishes contain PLASTICS to counter act that exact problem... the thin layers of plasticised dye and stabiliser can be washed like any plastic, just as it is so thin an aggressive soap will lift it from the surface... the plasticisers allow your car with big areas of glass to sit for 10 years out side in tropical conditions and not suffer cracking... the old cars are a different matter... 60's leather wouldn't last 2 years in modern enclosed Motors... they would dry out in that time and turn to paper... so although you sit on 'leather' you are in fact sitting on a fine built up layer of PLASTIC.
I bet less than ½% of the people here knew that...
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 12:43:30 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:00:05 PM]
Unless you own a car from the 60's or before or you own a Rolls Royce or Bentley you will never force anything except hard objects into the leather... people often think that the surface they touch is the 'skin' of the animal... for almost all cars Worldwide this is not the case... all the dyes and finishes contain PLASTICS to counter act that exact problem... the thin layers of plasticised dye and stabiliser can be washed like any plastic, just as it is so thin an aggressive soap will lift it from the surface... the plasticisers allow your car with big areas of glass to sit for 10 years out side in tropical conditions and not suffer cracking... the old cars are a different matter... 60's leather wouldn't last 2 years in modern enclosed Motors... they would dry out in that time and turn to paper... so although you sit on 'leather' you are in fact sitting on a fine built up layer of PLASTIC.
I bet less than ½% of the people here knew that...
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 12:43:30 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:00:05 PM]
15 May 2003, 12:52 PM
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Information contained below by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 2003.
Simple test... Leather, raw leather you know the real stuff is instantly warm to the touch... there is no cold moment... plastic needs time to warm... so go and touch your leather on a cold morning... if it doesn't have frost on it then if it had no Plastic in the Dye and Finish it would be instantly warm... but all of us know that we get a little few seconds of chill as our cheeks warm the leather... you are in fact warming the PLASTIC... I re-dyed the leather of my Soarer to Black from its original Grey... it would take me a day to sandpaper off the Japanese dyes and coating on just one seat back... and that was with an electrical sander!!!... I redyed using the latest micro Plastics coating... this is stronger and more robust than the stuff lexus used... my seats are almost instantly warm and are no longer clammy... My Bentley Turbo had this sort of finish and I missed it when I got the Soarer, so I re-did them to that standard... I have hundreds of pics and a huge write up on how to do this... took me 2 weeks... now my leather is 'Kid Glove' soft...
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 12:55:40 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:00:47 PM]
Simple test... Leather, raw leather you know the real stuff is instantly warm to the touch... there is no cold moment... plastic needs time to warm... so go and touch your leather on a cold morning... if it doesn't have frost on it then if it had no Plastic in the Dye and Finish it would be instantly warm... but all of us know that we get a little few seconds of chill as our cheeks warm the leather... you are in fact warming the PLASTIC
... I re-dyed the leather of my Soarer to Black from its original Grey... it would take me a day to sandpaper off the Japanese dyes and coating on just one seat back... and that was with an electrical sander!!!... I redyed using the latest micro Plastics coating... this is stronger and more robust than the stuff lexus used... my seats are almost instantly warm and are no longer clammy... My Bentley Turbo had this sort of finish and I missed it when I got the Soarer, so I re-did them to that standard... I have hundreds of pics and a huge write up on how to do this... took me 2 weeks... now my leather is 'Kid Glove' soft...[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 12:55:40 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:00:47 PM]
15 May 2003, 12:59 PM
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Information contained below by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 2003.
Whilst on the 'clammy' bit... the reason leather seats are sometimes clammy in hot weather is because of the plastic in the dyes and finishes... remove the plastic and re-treat the leather with the modern dyes and you never get that... the very latest types of dye and finishes are amzing and there are no 'sticky moments' anymore... not cheap but the difference is amazing and worth every penny.
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 1:00:34 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:01:20 PM]
Whilst on the 'clammy' bit... the reason leather seats are sometimes clammy in hot weather is because of the plastic in the dyes and finishes... remove the plastic and re-treat the leather with the modern dyes and you never get that... the very latest types of dye and finishes are amzing and there are no 'sticky moments' anymore... not cheap but the difference is amazing and worth every penny.
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 1:00:34 PM]
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:01:20 PM]
15 May 2003, 02:39 PM
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Information contained below by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 2003.
Also because the leather is now more 'porous' to H2O but not its own 'oil'... my seats no longer promote that sweaty skin effect on a hot day...
Modern leather is covered in Plastic... it does lots of things... hides imperfections etc... I like my leather to look like it came from the animal that died to allow me the luxury of its skin... to coat it, layer after layer, is pointless and an insult to the animal that died for my pleasure... look at my seats and you see the grain, the barbed wire scars the lot... it was once an important part of a living creature... for me to deny this would be for me to treat the animal with contempt...
''Eat what you kill and use every part you can, but show some respect.'' That is my belief.
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:02:01 PM]
Also because the leather is now more 'porous' to H2O but not its own 'oil'... my seats no longer promote that sweaty skin effect on a hot day...
Modern leather is covered in Plastic... it does lots of things... hides imperfections etc... I like my leather to look like it came from the animal that died to allow me the luxury of its skin... to coat it, layer after layer, is pointless and an insult to the animal that died for my pleasure... look at my seats and you see the grain, the barbed wire scars the lot... it was once an important part of a living creature... for me to deny this would be for me to treat the animal with contempt...
''Eat what you kill and use every part you can, but show some respect.'' That is my belief.
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 6:02:01 PM]
15 May 2003, 04:27 PM
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Information contained below by kind permission of Dr. Morse-Wiltshire. Original text Copyright protected 2003.
If it has anything to do with cars then No is the answer... I have either designed it, specced it, machined it myself, built it, had others build it... I am the real McCoy I have to tell you... if it has ever been in, near, on, up or around a car... I know about it...
From the Quantum Maths (Doctorate in Mathematics) that explains how a catalyst truly works... to the fire repressent qualities of underbonnet felt (Doctorate in Physics) I know about it...
Now that is scary ****... as someone on here once said...
(Serious answer)
Hahaha...
The guys here are really funny... hi chimps...<waves>
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=3dbada80a716c1aa4c770d22b8d2890c& threadid=8668
Heeelllloooo.... Dr Morse-Wiltshire is me you thick nerks... hahaha
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 8:23:44 PM]
If it has anything to do with cars then No is the answer... I have either designed it, specced it, machined it myself, built it, had others build it... I am the real McCoy I have to tell you... if it has ever been in, near, on, up or around a car... I know about it...
From the Quantum Maths (Doctorate in Mathematics) that explains how a catalyst truly works... to the fire repressent qualities of underbonnet felt (Doctorate in Physics) I know about it...
Now that is scary ****... as someone on here once said...
(Serious answer)
Hahaha...
The guys here are really funny... hi chimps...<waves>
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=3dbada80a716c1aa4c770d22b8d2890c& threadid=8668
Heeelllloooo.... Dr Morse-Wiltshire is me you thick nerks... hahaha
[Edited by Mycroft - 5/15/2003 8:23:44 PM]
15 May 2003, 05:56 PM
#24
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Shame you don't have a training in Social Skills to go with your education.....
Being right all the time is one thing (not that I'm saying you are), a little tact would go a long way to getting your point across.
Being right all the time is one thing (not that I'm saying you are), a little tact would go a long way to getting your point across.
15 May 2003, 06:08 PM
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Jeff... you are mixing 'social skills' with 'netiquette' the former I have in abundance, the latter I choose to run roughshod over... to remind you... 'netiquette wise... the thread is about LEATHER not your hurt pride or envy or what ever 'grudge' you hold...
15 May 2003, 08:49 PM
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Some people, it seems, don't understand that Vitamins although essential for life, have a vital function even on dead things... hahaha
Vitamin means Vital Mineral... leather needs the 'E' compound, it turns to paper otherwise... hahaha
Vitamin means Vital Mineral... leather needs the 'E' compound, it turns to paper otherwise... hahaha
15 May 2003, 11:40 PM
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Leather thread?
Yet again Troll you post at 'THE MAN' not to the thread... that is valueless and makes you look less smart than I believe you really are... I have 'brought something' to this thread... it may not interest you that leather is treated in the manner I described... to someone I hope the info is of value.
Try to contribute or, if you have nothing of value to anyone, refrain from posting...
Yet again Troll you post at 'THE MAN' not to the thread... that is valueless and makes you look less smart than I believe you really are... I have 'brought something' to this thread... it may not interest you that leather is treated in the manner I described... to someone I hope the info is of value.
Try to contribute or, if you have nothing of value to anyone, refrain from posting...