LeeMac

iTrader: (1)

Ive had this kit a few weeks, its probably straight forward but on opening the box and seeing it all I closed the box up and put it in a corner!

Just opened it up again and wondered if it would do the job

My current garage door (up and over) has been there a few years and compared to the new style doors which are quite easy and light to open this isnt so easy (hidden vertical springs).

Before I take it on, does anyone know if these electric door openers are good enough, generally.

The problem I have with the door now is that when open you can hear it creaking, slowly lowering, not good when reversing out the scoob, why I bought the kit.

Brun

Long stick to prop door up = sorted

speedking

I bought a kit from Wickes and put it off for about 2 years. When I eventually got round to it it was one of the best home improvements I've done.

We have a large steel double up and over door and the kit has worked for 5 years.

Just get on with it

LeeMac

iTrader: (1)

I might just do that

RobsyUK

iTrader: (2)

What happens in a power cut. Is there a manual over ride?

Spoon

I have 2 steel doors 14' x 7' that are remotely operated and have been 20 years with no problem. I originally had the one door fitted with the door manufacturers kit. It was circa £500 at the time but there were no retro fit kits available as an alternative.

Some years later I was in B&Q and saw some kits. To be honest I thought they looked a bit cheap compared to what I had and the biggest kit available was circa £120 which didn't instill much confidence in their quality. However, I bought one and took it home.

My odd-job man was at my home at the time and I needed to go back out. On my return he had fitted the kit alone with no previous experience, and it has worked faultlessly since. I'd even say it operates better than the more expensive 'works' door.

It was certainly a pleasant surprise and one of the first insights into aftermarket products often being excellent value for money and possibly a better design to boot. If you have a kit that is for your size of door then my advice is fit it. Electrically operated doors are something you'd always specify in a property once you've experienced them.

Spoon

I have 2 other walk-in access doors but the electrically operated doors are fitted with a pull chain to release the mechanism in a power cut. The doors can then be pulled shut and key locked as normal, if necessary. Once power has been restored, and the door is unlocked, I just have to press my remote and the drive reconnects automatically.

Dr Hu

I fitted 2 Chamberlain garage door opening kits from B&Q quite a few years ago now - 6+ probably, dead easy to install, and never had a moments trouble with them, still on the original remote batteries too!

They were about £120 or so each door back then.

Best thing I've ever fitted at home, priceless on these winter mornings when the chap across the road is trying to hack his car out of perma-frost, and I just nod & say morning, door swishes open, climb into car & drive past him waving, as the garage door closes behind me....

Looking back he must *really* hate me - LOL

speedking

I forgot I had to get a local engineering works to make up an adapter plate so I could bolt the door opener to the door securely. I would check that end out before you mount the motor etc.

LeeMac

iTrader: (1)

cheers for the replies

My worry is the current door, I have tried to adjust how it is sat now and it opens better than before but I still feel it is not quite right.

My last house/garage had a brand new door and this felt so light to open with its new style springs etc I wouldnt give it a second thought with fitting the kit to that

Im hoping they are strong enough to open this door

Spoon

If your door is aligned properly and you have the correct kit there will be no problem. My doors are big and heavy but do open manually with a finger because the alignment/spring set up is true.

If the doors aren't true now the kit will just twist and result in popping the electrically operated runner out of its rail, or if it's the chain type, it could jam it or worse snap it.

speedking

The openers are designed to stop if they encounter an obstruction while either opening or closing. That would include jamming, so there's no way it would ever snap its own chain or belt.

Spoon

A door should stop if it encounters an obstruction at the door edge, i.e a person or vehicle, but it won't stop from a twisted door. I've seen it kick a runner out of its rail and bend the track it should stay within, or I wouldn't have ******* well said it.

speedking

I'm trying to allay the fears of the OP No need to swear

The door won't know the difference between hitting an obstruction and jamming, they're not that clever

Spoon

The door mechanism will still run the full length of its drive if it jumps its runner. The only difference being is the door won't be moving with it as it has disconnected from the drive. If the door hits an object, while operating correctly, it should stop. Therefore there is a difference. So in allaying fears you'd prefer to give him incorrect information? Yeah, **** it, good idea.

OP, if you're concerned don't be. Fit the kit to your door and for the first six months Lucy Pinder turns up and sucks you dry. It is a feature of all electric garage doors kits.

Spoon

Oh and to the OP. Fit the kit.

LeeMac

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, when I get round to it, its in the corner again

Lisawrx

iTrader: (1)

A quick thread bump, just in case anyone has anything else (relevant ) to add.

stevie boy

my door is secured by 3 bars, one either side at the bottom and the other in the middle at the top, i'm guessing these aren't used with an electric kit? and they're just locked by the arm at the top? how secure do they feel?

i'm thinking of a electric kit and rigging it up to still use the 3 locking bars, anyone done this?

Spoon

The locking mechanisms on my doors are still fitted in case of a power cut and then the key can be used as normal. They just sit in the open position with the kit fitted. You won't pull the door up any easier than you would with it locked I wouldn't imagine. The kits replace the locking bars with tight drives, either chain or shaft so there isn't any slack.

You can rig the door up with the 3 locking bars used too by just locking it with the key but it defeats the object of having remote controlled doors somewhat. You'd need to unlock the door before pressing the remote or something will go bang.

stevie boy

i was meaning getting the electric door kit to move the 3 locking bars, using the same sort of setup as the brake / throttle on a rc petrol car

i just don't fancy the idea of the door being locked by the 1 bar at the top, if that is how they work?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Generally speaking the springs for teh door must be in sgood condition for teh garage door motor to work. In otherwords teh door must operate normally WITHOUT the motor fitted. So you need to fix your door first IMHO.

I know when our door springs stretched, the motor wouldn't open the door...too heavy. Same happened when the linkage seized (so keep it lubed with some spray grease every once in a while).

The only thing that stops the door being opened is the motor itself; you need a fair bit of force for it to jump the cogs so to speak, but for when I'm away I have a manual deadbolt on the inside for when I want it securely locked. Obviously the door won't work with the remote when I have it deadbolted, but thats the intension (just incase someone grabs the remote signal, unlikely I know, but thats just me).

Spoon

I'm sure if you want to go to the time, trouble, effort and cost then anything is possible. You might find it less hassle though to just employ a 24 hour guard to sit with your door.