Is just more fastenings, screws, straight in the answer

Or actually ripping them up, denailing and then screw back down

Am bored with xmas all ready

 

Put a nail through a water pipe while you're at it - that'll liven up Christmas for you!

 

Always lift the board and then refix/add bracing as needed

 

I VERY nearly went through waste pipe yesterday and a week ago did the same with the main hot water! Someone must be watching over me

 

Take screws out, rub thread along a wax candle and reinsert, or just pop some new screws in pre waxed. Its generally the screw that causes them to creak, full of good advice but forgot to do this when my carpet was up!!

 

I guess it's the only way, the joists are only 18" apart, I'm wondering whether there squeak is emanating from the tongue/groove tho -maybe could start with jigsaw down the gap

 

if it was mine i would take them up clean off all old nails/screws, glue the joints . fix down to joists with expanding foam, screw down, they really should not move after that.

 

You know they're not sounding too bad really lol

Cheers

 

At 18" centres you are always going to get this issue. I wouldn't worry about it to be honest. Chuck in some more screws when you have the carpets up, but you'll never cure it forever given the thickness of the board and 18" spans.

When I built my extension in 1995 I put my joists at 12" centres just for a bit of overkill. They are boarded with the same board as the rest of the house and have never squeaked yet the ones on the 18" centre joists squeak no matter what!

 

Alas .. I've done that twice now

 

floor boards creek when they arnt sittin flat on the joist. Usually when plumbers have pulled them up and re-fitted on top of ****. Take up the creeky ones clean any crap off and screw them back down. Floors dont squeek when there screwed down properly. Cutting down the joint with a jig saw wont achieve anything

 

Our house does this upstairs, this is the only thing that really annoys me in the house

I had a look at sorting ours when we had pulled up the carpets ready for a new one to be fitted. However, ours are not floor boards as such (long narrow boards), they are large square boards which have been nailed down for a start but would also be a real PITA to lift as it would seem some partition walls have been built on top of the boards so not much chance of getting them up!!

 

They are weyrock boards they squeek because the joints havent been glued and some people dont use ring shanked nails. Just put a screw beside every nail and it shud stop

 

In many Japanese houses squeaky floorboards are induced to warn of intruders. It's a good excuse if your wife complains!

 

I did actually try putting somee screws in, it did help a little in a few places but other areas made no difference. Think the "weyrock boards" would need to be pulled up to do the job properly in my case.

 

Not so good when you try to sneak in quietly after a boy's night out and the other half hears you coming in

 

You sneak in, she will hear you, come in loud, run up the stairs shouting " I feel like being dirty tonight", guaranteed she'll be asleep,

 

 

Well iv put couple screws in addition each board each joist, it has made some difference, certainly not perfect

 

I've done the whole upstairs of my house - screw next to each nail, then sheets of ply on top screwed into the boards at 6" centres.

Took me ages - I did each room as I decorated it, but it's well worth it, I don't get any sound at all now

 

I'm overlaying bathroom floor anyway with that 1/2" fake wood that slots together

Want to be able get to my plumbing just in case!

 

Is it a relatively new build?

Our last house (built in 2002) had some noisy boards so me and my Dad ripped them up only to find the noise was actually coming from the nail that fastened the wall battens to the floor. The floor would sink slightly when you stood on it causing it to slide up and down the nail, making the noise. To fix it we moved but now have been told the best thing to do is to put weight on the floor and tap spacers under the wall so it won't move as much. The extra screws and supports we added did nothing.

 

MAke sure you are using the bathroom grade laminate flooring, which is moisture resistant. Ordinary grade won't last long in a bathroom before the joints open and it curls due to moisture.

 

This ^^^ and use these http://www.spax.com/uk/handymen/scre...looring-screw/

Drive in really easily, no pilot holes or countersinking required

 

Or an electricity cable