Flamer Kit
#1
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Flamer Kit
Right yes they are chavvy and a waste of time etc etc etc.
BUT I had one in the boot of my car when I bought it, but not wired up just a jumble of stuff in a carrier bag.
So just after how to wire it up so I can either fit it, or get rid of it as a working kit. As I`ve no idea if that thingamabob is supposed to be with the kit, or if its off something else
Basically this coil.
With this thingamabob.
And 6ft of red cable and 2ft of black cable.
BUT I had one in the boot of my car when I bought it, but not wired up just a jumble of stuff in a carrier bag.
So just after how to wire it up so I can either fit it, or get rid of it as a working kit. As I`ve no idea if that thingamabob is supposed to be with the kit, or if its off something else
Basically this coil.
With this thingamabob.
And 6ft of red cable and 2ft of black cable.
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So fancied a challenge again.
Anyone can buy a new car and drive it to a garage to get fixed, not everyone can totally rebuild a car and engine and do their own servicing and DIY everything. Which I`ve done on every car/boat/van/lorry I`ve had, and now learning on my scoob lol.
But I couldn`t give a monkeys what other people think of what I do, stopped that in Primary School. lol.
So anyone know how to get this working??
Last edited by Jimbob; 28 August 2010 at 09:38 PM.
#6
Think the wiring is 12V permanent feed(switched and fused),an Earth and an ignition feed.
Switch feed turns the kit on and off,the ig feed makes the control unit pulse the coil..
It must be 10 years since i wired one though,so dont take this info as gospel..
Switch feed turns the kit on and off,the ig feed makes the control unit pulse the coil..
It must be 10 years since i wired one though,so dont take this info as gospel..
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This is one of my brothers kits. Although its an older version.
The flamer kit is simply a spark plug inserted into the tail pipe about 2-4 inches back from the end of the system (it should be installed after the last filter box). The H-T lead from the plug is fed through into the boot floor where it is connected to the ignition coil, the ignition module mounts on to the coil. The kit simply connects to + positive supply (battery/ignition etc), via a red lead with fuse and on/off switch, and a black lead that connects to - negative (chassis). The spark plug will be in contact with the metal exhaust for earth and just needs the H-T lead from the coil output connected. When the kit is switched on the ignition module makes the coil discharge to the plug at an extremely fast rate, it causes a near constant spark at the plug. The kit makes flames at the exhaust exit by igniting unburned fuel vapour with the spark plug in the exhaust gases, it will work on most cars that are of a reasonable engine size or turbocharged etc. It works best on turbo cars and it is very important that the catalytic converter is removed on cars that have them fitted (because they absorb any excess fuel vapour in the exhaust gas which the kit relies on for igniting).
The flamer kit is simply a spark plug inserted into the tail pipe about 2-4 inches back from the end of the system (it should be installed after the last filter box). The H-T lead from the plug is fed through into the boot floor where it is connected to the ignition coil, the ignition module mounts on to the coil. The kit simply connects to + positive supply (battery/ignition etc), via a red lead with fuse and on/off switch, and a black lead that connects to - negative (chassis). The spark plug will be in contact with the metal exhaust for earth and just needs the H-T lead from the coil output connected. When the kit is switched on the ignition module makes the coil discharge to the plug at an extremely fast rate, it causes a near constant spark at the plug. The kit makes flames at the exhaust exit by igniting unburned fuel vapour with the spark plug in the exhaust gases, it will work on most cars that are of a reasonable engine size or turbocharged etc. It works best on turbo cars and it is very important that the catalytic converter is removed on cars that have them fitted (because they absorb any excess fuel vapour in the exhaust gas which the kit relies on for igniting).
#10
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This is one of my brothers kits. Although its an older version.
The flamer kit is simply a spark plug inserted into the tail pipe about 2-4 inches back from the end of the system (it should be installed after the last filter box). The H-T lead from the plug is fed through into the boot floor where it is connected to the ignition coil, the ignition module mounts on to the coil. The kit simply connects to + positive supply (battery/ignition etc), via a red lead with fuse and on/off switch, and a black lead that connects to - negative (chassis). The spark plug will be in contact with the metal exhaust for earth and just needs the H-T lead from the coil output connected. When the kit is switched on the ignition module makes the coil discharge to the plug at an extremely fast rate, it causes a near constant spark at the plug. The kit makes flames at the exhaust exit by igniting unburned fuel vapour with the spark plug in the exhaust gases, it will work on most cars that are of a reasonable engine size or turbocharged etc. It works best on turbo cars and it is very important that the catalytic converter is removed on cars that have them fitted (because they absorb any excess fuel vapour in the exhaust gas which the kit relies on for igniting).
The flamer kit is simply a spark plug inserted into the tail pipe about 2-4 inches back from the end of the system (it should be installed after the last filter box). The H-T lead from the plug is fed through into the boot floor where it is connected to the ignition coil, the ignition module mounts on to the coil. The kit simply connects to + positive supply (battery/ignition etc), via a red lead with fuse and on/off switch, and a black lead that connects to - negative (chassis). The spark plug will be in contact with the metal exhaust for earth and just needs the H-T lead from the coil output connected. When the kit is switched on the ignition module makes the coil discharge to the plug at an extremely fast rate, it causes a near constant spark at the plug. The kit makes flames at the exhaust exit by igniting unburned fuel vapour with the spark plug in the exhaust gases, it will work on most cars that are of a reasonable engine size or turbocharged etc. It works best on turbo cars and it is very important that the catalytic converter is removed on cars that have them fitted (because they absorb any excess fuel vapour in the exhaust gas which the kit relies on for igniting).
#12
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Plus I have one of these.
So no visible switch as it can be anywhere within 10m lol.
Bought it years ago as a cheap way of doing parking lights.
Last edited by Jimbob; 29 August 2010 at 05:45 PM.
#13
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Remember to label the switch clearly on the dash ...... something like '******** Device' should suffice
I'm sure the 14 year olds at MacDonalds will think you are reaeaeaealllllllly Kooooool
To be honest, considering you can strip down cars, vans, lorries, boats and spaceships - I'm shocked you cannot connect to 12Volts via a switch (and fuse for safety) Earth and the Ignition Coil to a Spark Plug ......................................
Just messing with ya' ...... you enjoy it
I'm sure the 14 year olds at MacDonalds will think you are reaeaeaealllllllly Kooooool
To be honest, considering you can strip down cars, vans, lorries, boats and spaceships - I'm shocked you cannot connect to 12Volts via a switch (and fuse for safety) Earth and the Ignition Coil to a Spark Plug ......................................
Just messing with ya' ...... you enjoy it
#14
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Remember to label the switch clearly on the dash ...... something like '******** Device' should suffice
I'm sure the 14 year olds at MacDonalds will think you are reaeaeaealllllllly Kooooool
To be honest, considering you can strip down cars, vans, lorries, boats and spaceships - I'm shocked you cannot connect to 12Volts via a switch (and fuse for safety) Earth and the Ignition Coil to a Spark Plug ......................................
Just messing with ya' ...... you enjoy it
I'm sure the 14 year olds at MacDonalds will think you are reaeaeaealllllllly Kooooool
To be honest, considering you can strip down cars, vans, lorries, boats and spaceships - I'm shocked you cannot connect to 12Volts via a switch (and fuse for safety) Earth and the Ignition Coil to a Spark Plug ......................................
Just messing with ya' ...... you enjoy it
Don`t want a flamer kit to make the flames by setting the wiring on fire lol.
But I should go buy a BMW or Audi I can be an individual, just like everyone else. Anyways if people didn`t do dull things how would you cope??
Last edited by Jimbob; 29 August 2010 at 06:59 PM.
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Hey each to their own and if someone wants to fit a flamer kit to their car then let them.
To the OP, has your car got a full decat? I believe it needs it for the kit to work properly.
To the OP, has your car got a full decat? I believe it needs it for the kit to work properly.
#17
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Still not 100% if its gonna be fitted though, just wanna get it ready so I can either fit it or sell it on lol.
#18
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ive got one fitted to my car but then again im 24 i dont really use it that often as when its hot it naturally flames any way, they can have a use in a way they stop u puttin un burnt fuel on the taramac and causing slippery surfaces lol ( im not being serious ) its marmite some people like it some people dont i personally like flamer kits on the right cars ( Jap turbos and things like cossies etc ) if u need a hand with the fitting side of things let me know they are not hard at all ( well mine wasnt on my classic )
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ive got one fitted to my car but then again im 24 i dont really use it that often as when its hot it naturally flames any way, they can have a use in a way they stop u puttin un burnt fuel on the taramac and causing slippery surfaces lol ( im not being serious ) its marmite some people like it some people dont i personally like flamer kits on the right cars ( Jap turbos and things like cossies etc ) if u need a hand with the fitting side of things let me know they are not hard at all ( well mine wasnt on my classic )
And not as if it would be used 24/7 lol.
#22
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orite, well for the button i use the one already on the dash the ( bright ) button for the clock as i thought it would be a better use lol, the enhancement pack goes with the coil in the Sparewheel bay. you need to run the power to that box and earth that box out then run wires from that box to the coil. hope that helps. also theres a large bung in the spare wheel area to insert a hole for HT lead to go through tightly to stop leaks etc.
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orite, well for the button i use the one already on the dash the ( bright ) button for the clock as i thought it would be a better use lol, the enhancement pack goes with the coil in the Sparewheel bay. you need to run the power to that box and earth that box out then run wires from that box to the coil. hope that helps. also theres a large bung in the spare wheel area to insert a hole for HT lead to go through tightly to stop leaks etc.
So where does the yellow and green go?? lol.
#24
This is one of my brothers kits. Although its an older version.
The flamer kit is simply a spark plug inserted into the tail pipe about 2-4 inches back from the end of the system (it should be installed after the last filter box). The H-T lead from the plug is fed through into the boot floor where it is connected to the ignition coil, the ignition module mounts on to the coil. The kit simply connects to + positive supply (battery/ignition etc), via a red lead with fuse and on/off switch, and a black lead that connects to - negative (chassis). The spark plug will be in contact with the metal exhaust for earth and just needs the H-T lead from the coil output connected. When the kit is switched on the ignition module makes the coil discharge to the plug at an extremely fast rate, it causes a near constant spark at the plug. The kit makes flames at the exhaust exit by igniting unburned fuel vapour with the spark plug in the exhaust gases, it will work on most cars that are of a reasonable engine size or turbocharged etc. It works best on turbo cars and it is very important that the catalytic converter is removed on cars that have them fitted (because they absorb any excess fuel vapour in the exhaust gas which the kit relies on for igniting).
The flamer kit is simply a spark plug inserted into the tail pipe about 2-4 inches back from the end of the system (it should be installed after the last filter box). The H-T lead from the plug is fed through into the boot floor where it is connected to the ignition coil, the ignition module mounts on to the coil. The kit simply connects to + positive supply (battery/ignition etc), via a red lead with fuse and on/off switch, and a black lead that connects to - negative (chassis). The spark plug will be in contact with the metal exhaust for earth and just needs the H-T lead from the coil output connected. When the kit is switched on the ignition module makes the coil discharge to the plug at an extremely fast rate, it causes a near constant spark at the plug. The kit makes flames at the exhaust exit by igniting unburned fuel vapour with the spark plug in the exhaust gases, it will work on most cars that are of a reasonable engine size or turbocharged etc. It works best on turbo cars and it is very important that the catalytic converter is removed on cars that have them fitted (because they absorb any excess fuel vapour in the exhaust gas which the kit relies on for igniting).
Les
#25
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jimbob
This should be pretty straightforward. Normally, the silver thing has 3 connections known as 'base', 'emitter', and 'collector', as it's in fact a high-power NPN transistor. In layman's terms, base is for power-in, emitter is earth, and collector is power-out. The only slight issue with yours is the extra circuitry under the white case, which isn't exactly clear from the photo. In all likelihood that's just a protector circuit to stop the transistor from burning itself out though, and as the position of the three connections on the transistor is an industry-standard spec in any case, it should be safe to assume:
red=power from switched and fused feed
blue=earth
green/yellow=power to coil
For safety, I'd rig the whole thing up to an old battery or other independent 12v power supply nowhere near a car and try it out there first. Also, keep the three main components (coil, spark-plug and circuit-box) a decent distance apart from each other, on a non-metallic and non-flammable surface. A big old sheet of thick ply-board should do fine, or a cement floor.
If you ever get round to fitting this to a car, or sell it on to someone else, I'd also advise you use a 'momentary' on-switch, that you have to hold down for it to stay on, rather than a 'latching' switch that'll stay on until you press it again to release it.
cheers
Mark
Edit:
I got my collector and emitter mixed up there, wiring colours amended accordingly. Just goes to show you should never try to do these things from memory alone, always use a datasheet.
This should be pretty straightforward. Normally, the silver thing has 3 connections known as 'base', 'emitter', and 'collector', as it's in fact a high-power NPN transistor. In layman's terms, base is for power-in, emitter is earth, and collector is power-out. The only slight issue with yours is the extra circuitry under the white case, which isn't exactly clear from the photo. In all likelihood that's just a protector circuit to stop the transistor from burning itself out though, and as the position of the three connections on the transistor is an industry-standard spec in any case, it should be safe to assume:
red=power from switched and fused feed
blue=earth
green/yellow=power to coil
For safety, I'd rig the whole thing up to an old battery or other independent 12v power supply nowhere near a car and try it out there first. Also, keep the three main components (coil, spark-plug and circuit-box) a decent distance apart from each other, on a non-metallic and non-flammable surface. A big old sheet of thick ply-board should do fine, or a cement floor.
If you ever get round to fitting this to a car, or sell it on to someone else, I'd also advise you use a 'momentary' on-switch, that you have to hold down for it to stay on, rather than a 'latching' switch that'll stay on until you press it again to release it.
cheers
Mark
Edit:
I got my collector and emitter mixed up there, wiring colours amended accordingly. Just goes to show you should never try to do these things from memory alone, always use a datasheet.
Last edited by markjmd; 30 August 2010 at 10:49 AM.
#26
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Love the breadboard circuit
Not seen that stuff since school!
Seriously though, i don't agree with the "it will **** off the chavs in saxos" part because if you fit the kit, you are "one of them" anyway ?
Not seen that stuff since school!
Seriously though, i don't agree with the "it will **** off the chavs in saxos" part because if you fit the kit, you are "one of them" anyway ?
#28
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You're 28 years old??
At that age I had a girlfriend (wife, actually) and didn't need a Flamer Kit to feel like a man.
I honestly thought you must be 17 or 18
At that age I had a girlfriend (wife, actually) and didn't need a Flamer Kit to feel like a man.
I honestly thought you must be 17 or 18
#30
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every ones entitled to there opinion some ppl like it some ppl dont i dont seee the need to insult some one because they like something that you dont, with regards to the above post all i will say is im 24 live with my girlfriend in our own house with a westy puppy ( dog ) incase you wasnt sure and i still am some one that likes the flamer kits along with many others, if you dont like it fair enough post something like " i dont like em personally if you really feel the need to no need to insult him " esp when the thread isnt weather you like them or not its about helpin him to fit, you say you've grown up with girlfriend etc, how ever you still have the erge for boys toys so you feel like a man hence why you have a scooby and not a mondeo rant over.
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