Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

I think I'm going mad
Trying to change the pedal arm on the bike - I've taken the pedal off and undone the screw that fixes the Crank arm into the Bottom bracket

But the Crank wont budge or come off - is there something else I need to do - probably has ceased on?
The thing was lose and now after tigtening isnt lose at all but I know that the Truvativ thing has gone at the joint with the bottom bracket connection as this is the second one that has gone on me in the space of 6 months (bike shopped changed it last time)

Anyone with Bike maintenance experience with some advice appreciated

Thanks

Luminous

iTrader: (3)

I haven't a clue So in true Clarkson style my suggestion is a bigger hammer

In the meantime however, you could have a read at this link to see if it offers you some suggestions. Seems as if it may be relevant to your needs:
Crankset - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Once tightened, you really need a "crank extractor tool" to safely and properly remove cranks. They consist of a threaded outer which screws into the crank threads, and another threaded inner which then screws THROUGH the outer, presses on the bottom bracket axle and forces the crank off.

Alternatively, you can buy self-extracting crank bolts, my preferred method, since SOME axles have such a large thread in the end that SOME crank extractor tools can't do the job. You can sometimes get over this by putting a small bolt into the end of the axle, eg an M6 hex headed one.

Both tools and extractor bolts can be had from DECENT bike shops, and sometimes even Halfords

Or mail order, try Bicycles | Bikes | Mountain Bikes | Road Bikes | MTB Bikes | Bike Parts | Bike Frames | Road Frames | MTB Frames.

I can also recommend this site: Park Tool Website

Butkus

You need to use a crank extractor to pull the crank arm off. Yanking it at the pedal end of the arm won't do any good, and if you try too hard it will damage the arm. A crank extractor pulls the arm away from the bottom bracket spindle.

alpha charlie

I took a Truvativ crankset off my MTB the other week, had to go to Halfraulds for the extractor tool as mine was a tapered crank and was sooo tight, came off easy peasy with the right tool.
AC

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

Thanks
Good I'm not going mad then - 'Crank extractor and self extracting bolts - cripes its more complicated than working on a Subaru!.... no wonder the hammer wasnt working much...
Not bothered if I knacker the crank just dont want to knacker the BB fixings
I'll get myself to a bike shop tomorrow then...

BOB.T

I've you've worn a second one out quickly I's suggest your BB is worn too

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

yeah - I did think the BB fitment may be knackered but by all accounts the Truvativ stuff is made of chocolate - they must have some link to Halfords and Carrera somewhere...... ****e makes and ****e company

About to get a second bike with the Bike to work voucher..... still nice to have a 2nd bike...

dome

If you're anywhere near Glasgow i should be able to help, depending on what cranks you have??

Simon K

Or, you could just ride it around for a bit. This normally makes the crank loose once the crank nut has been removed.

Arrrrr :-) bikes, used love repairing, stripping down, fixing my old BMX's, Bombers, Raleigh Mavricks, etc etc.

SBK

Klaatu

Heat the crank pedal, where it fits on to the bottom bracket, but not the bottom bracket/crankshaft itself. Assuming the cotter pin is removed, and assuming you have a three piece crank, two pedals, diametrically opposed, and a shaft, or botton bracket, and then tap it, firmly, with a hammer. If you have a copper or rubber mallet, that'll be better.

J4CKO

iTrader: (1)

Cotter Pin ? This isnt the fifties !

As has been said, crank extractor, then its dead easy, you can get it off without, just depends on whether you want to use it again.

Decathlon do a kit for £20 or so of all the important bike tools that you cant really operate without, spoke key, crank extractor, chain link remover, cassette remover, cheaper to buy than an hours labour at your local bike shop, I do all my own work mainly for cost but also I dont want a two week wait whilst they fettle three grand full sussers than go out twice a year as seems to be the market round here.

yoza

Just buy the tool £8 from E-bay, next day delivery.

You screw the tool into the fine threads on the crank, and tighten up the plunger onto the bottom bracket shaft, and then the crank will come off....dead easy.

The crank is an interferance fit.

J4CKO

iTrader: (1)

I thought you would have just given it "a look" and it would have fell off.

Klaatu

Well in the OP, it's not actually clear what type it is, and clearly you didn't read my post fully (But there's a tool for that aye?). In any case, if you can't get the "special" tool(s) to do the job, you need to use what you have at hand (And a certain amount of mechanical intelligence).

BOB.T

To be fair I think it would be better to get a crank extractor than a gas axe!

Simon K

Mate, just get on the thing, stand up and pedal, and it will come off.

SBK

yoza

Your just trying to kill him, are you not ?

Simon K

haha of course not. I used to have the same problem, so remove the crank nut, get on the bike, and ride around the front of your house / flat, and it will become loose.

Stand up and pedal, obviously not fast and the arm will become loose. Or, go to halfords and buy the tool to remove the crank. No exactly difficult is it.

SBK

andys

The peadaling around if fine if you are going to replace the BB and can live with a rounded axel.

Simon K

The bottom axle is normally steel and the crank is alloy. It wont round off.

SBK

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

Well I decided to put the pedal back on and cycle to the bike shop
The crank was off within 10 seconds - much to my disgust as I nearly nearly feel off - it caught me out - I put a new arm on but it was the wrong hole type and then I couldnt get it off again! and this time cycling didnt work

Cost £4 in labour to change over and £16 for a new arm.......

Will replace the whole set up with Shimano if the arm fails again - which it will - square crank arm at the hole was knackered but the BBracket seems fine
With my weight its inevitable that I'l destroy things - then again the rear wheel has lasted a few thousand miles now with no spokes and retruing required (Halo Combat - bombproof)

I have a £1k plus £150 parts voucher from work - figure I will get a Badboy 8 - ride it for a couple of months (max) and then sell the bike for virtually what it cost me (or more) under this bike to work scheme.... afterall they dont check this crap and the ownership thing is a nonsense

J4CKO

iTrader: (1)

Why bother ?

How much do you weigth, I am sixteen ish and the Badboy 700 I have seems to be putting up with it save for a couple of broken spokes.

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

19 stone but should be 18 stone in a few weeks as on the GI diet and it seems to work and is easier than Atkins

J4CKO

iTrader: (1)

I learnt a new trick for making my ride a bit more challenging, whack it on the top cog and not far off the smallest on the back and single speed it all the way home, was great, legs were totally pumped and a bit wobbly when I got home but what a workout, going to try and do it going forward as I think the fantastic indexed geas now make you lazy.