Erm, soldering Irons.
19 March 2009, 05:52 PM
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Erm, soldering Irons.
On the Pug the strip which attaches to the heated lines on the rear windscreen has come off. By the looks of it, it justs needs a little soldering. But The last time I used a soldering Iron was before I started shaving at School.
Could someone recommend me a nice cheepy cheepy Iron off Ebay or something as I have no idea what I'm looking at. Would really appreciate any help.
Cheers
Could someone recommend me a nice cheepy cheepy Iron off Ebay or something as I have no idea what I'm looking at. Would really appreciate any help.
Cheers
19 March 2009, 05:56 PM
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Try maplins if you have one local.
However rememebr that it is on glass and you do not want to crack the glass with localised heat, you will need to 'tin' it to get the solder flowing.
However, You used to be able to get a type of glue that conducts leccy from Halfrauds to mend such things as this
However rememebr that it is on glass and you do not want to crack the glass with localised heat, you will need to 'tin' it to get the solder flowing.
However, You used to be able to get a type of glue that conducts leccy from Halfrauds to mend such things as this
19 March 2009, 06:10 PM
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Try maplins if you have one local.
However rememebr that it is on glass and you do not want to crack the glass with localised heat, you will need to 'tin' it to get the solder flowing.
However, You used to be able to get a type of glue that conducts leccy from Halfrauds to mend such things as this
However rememebr that it is on glass and you do not want to crack the glass with localised heat, you will need to 'tin' it to get the solder flowing.
However, You used to be able to get a type of glue that conducts leccy from Halfrauds to mend such things as this
This is what it looks like. Do you think it would be safe to solder on?
Whats "tinning" mean aswell, again sorry.
19 March 2009, 06:11 PM
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Use a low wattage soldering iron, one that won't cause heat damage (Maplins will know which one) and the appropriate solder that will work with it - takes a bit longer to use but is much safer.
Google the net, quite a few good how-to's for soldering and best to practice on two bits of wire (tin each end of the wire by covering it with solder, then solder the two together, you wil find they attach to each other easily)
Google the net, quite a few good how-to's for soldering and best to practice on two bits of wire (tin each end of the wire by covering it with solder, then solder the two together, you wil find they attach to each other easily)
19 March 2009, 06:13 PM
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Didn't see your other post, for something like that you will want to get some type of conductive glue to stick it on (some on eBay I think) or go for something like a 16w soldering iron.
If you can't get the glue, you will want to tin the surface area first, then do the same to the bottom of the metal on the wire and then use heat to press the connection on soldering it into place.
If you can't get the glue, you will want to tin the surface area first, then do the same to the bottom of the metal on the wire and then use heat to press the connection on soldering it into place.
19 March 2009, 06:15 PM
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Righteo. So maybe the conductive glue may be a better option for a novice then? If not I'll do a little research. The tinning comment through me thats all as I'm not termed up with things like this. Especially around glass, hense my dubious questions. Ta.
19 March 2009, 06:16 PM
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I have a Metcal SP200 for my model railway - it makes soldering an absolute breeze.
probably doesn't help you too much just wanted to show you my posh iron
probably doesn't help you too much just wanted to show you my posh iron
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19 March 2009, 06:18 PM
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I had to do some the other day - first time since school too. Had to solder some bullet connectors for an RC car.
I repeatedly burnt myself (40 watt one used), did a crap job, welded one connector to a Roses tin lid (my "base"), tried to hack it off with a penknife, slipped, folded it onto my finger and nearly took the top of it off. It bled non stop for three hours and now looks minging - sliced deep into the nail too.
So be careful!!
I repeatedly burnt myself (40 watt one used), did a crap job, welded one connector to a Roses tin lid (my "base"), tried to hack it off with a penknife, slipped, folded it onto my finger and nearly took the top of it off. It bled non stop for three hours and now looks minging - sliced deep into the nail too.
So be careful!!
19 March 2009, 06:25 PM
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19 March 2009, 06:36 PM
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19 March 2009, 06:38 PM
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Much appreciated mate, and thanks to the others who offered advice, I am grateful.
19 March 2009, 07:04 PM
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19 March 2009, 07:08 PM
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you can almost hear them "Ohh, press you red hot iron into my sweaty palm" - Its disgusting, could have got you horsewhipped 100 or so years, ago.
Last edited by The Zohan; 19 March 2009 at 07:47 PM.
20 March 2009, 08:37 AM
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20 March 2009, 12:10 PM
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Job now done: cleaned up old connection with a fibreglass brush, painted on water-based active flux, put connectors together, touched it with a HOT iron, (75W), and it's done.