Deep Singh

Hi guys.

Just started to have the whole house painted. Now my front and side windows are wood and some are in bad nick. I really need to save these windows and protect them so they become hassle free for as long as possible.

My painter says just rub down, fill and then paint with dulux trade weather shield. Is there an advantage to stripping these windows down to wood and then preparing them? If so whats the best thing to strip them with?

The painter is back on Monday so I need to know what I want him to do by then.

Many thanks

Deep

Deep Singh

Anybody?

sarasquares

iTrader: (1)

ask bubba

Bubba po

Are they softwood or hardwood, and what state of repair are they in? What kind of guarantee of longevity is your painter giving to his workmanship before it needs doing again?

sarasquares

iTrader: (1)

i am on commisoin

Deep Singh

Hi Bubba,

Its an edwardian house I have no idea whether its hard or soft, sorry!

The windows are very variable, some are in very good nick, aged but no damaged wood as far as I can tell.

Some are really bad, the wood is rotten, you can put your finger through it. The whole of these windows aren't rotten just in parts.

Then there are windows where the wood has been exposed to the elements for some time, are showing signs of early damage but should be easily salvagable. So my questions are 3 I suppose;

1) What to do with the windows(or parts of) that are in good nick?

2) What to do with the windows that have parts that are really badly rotten? Unfortunately these are the large ones with original leaded stained glass and will bankrupt me to replace.

3) What to do with the ones/parts showing early damage?

The painter is working on a daily rate and is a nice bloke but quite young. I suppose he is really just doing what I ask of him. I feel I need to guide him a bit. Around here if you bring in one of the more experienced teams they charge you an arm and a leg ie £1000 for a medium room with freshly plastered floors and ceilings!

Many thanks for all your help.

Would some pics be helpful?

Deep Singh

Is that a new drug?

salsa-king

how can you guarantee as to when it needs doing agai?
it comes down to the condition of weather the windows are exposed to.. also the colour there painted....
ie.. black painted window sills on a south facing side of the house won't last as long as white painted.. or on a side of the house that doesn't get extreme weather.


use Dulux TRADE weather shield system 1,2 and 3.
1 is the base coat solution
2 the flexible undercoat
3 the flexible gloss.

if the wood is really bad burn off where needed.
rub down.
prime with system 1
use two pack wood filler, where needed.
under coat with system 2.
second under coat if needed on the bare wood.
finish with the system 3 (gloss).


OR

have you thought about using the Dulux OPAQUE AP (oil base + self undercoating) finished.... use base coat for primer coat like on weathersheild finish as above.

this gives a satin finish and last really well. we used this on teded's house two years ago.. his outside was in a poor state... its looks as good today as when we first did it, having gloss finish dulls down to satin over years anyway, so the satin look is great to even up rough looking wood too.
eg, gloss finish shows up uneven surface worse than satin etc.



ps.. your painter should know what to do in this situation!!!!

Phil

Bubba po

I know what you're saying, but what I mean is the quality of the substrate is paramount. His painter could use the system that you've described in detail and the paint could be knackered in a month if the timber is in a bad state of repair.

Deep, a joiner ought to be able to copy those windows and transfer the leaded panels. Alternatively, the spongy/rotten parts (if not too extensive) can be chopped out and replaced with new timber quite easily. Under a paint finish, a decent repair ought to be undetectable. With the badly-damaged windows that may be your best option.

sarasquares

iTrader: (1)

richardg

had a smilar problem at our first place. i cut out some of the bad bits of rotten timber, screwed and glued new sections in and finished edges with surform, then p80
i used car body filler in some of the awkward bits and that came out really well

salsa-king

car body filler!! to help it stop rusting???

richardg

of course
you may laugh, but it was bloody strong and will probably outlast the rest of the frames!

Deep Singh

Thanks guys. I have purchased some cuprinol wood hardner, extra strong filler, undercoat, and exterior gloss from dulux trade.

Deep Singh

Can someone recommend a good one of those chemical peel jobs for taking paint off wood? I want to strip all the windows and internal doors as they have layers of previous paint on them. I had one door and one window just painted over by my guy and the result is not very good. Its all bumpy and horrible.

Thanks

All Torque

Nitromorse, and you can get this from B&Q, read the instructions, but some decorators prefer to "burn off" it`s usually quicker than paint stippers especially if you are repainting them. Paint sripper is ideal when you want to put whatever back in woodstain.

Brendan Hughes

Deep, unless you're a glutton, look for a company that does this, there are many, try Yellow Pages or whatever. They'll dip it in a massive tank. Nitromors is effective but frankly bloody unpleasant to work with.

BTW, they'll do doors but not sure about windows, you'll have to ask.

salsa-king

liquid paint removing is very laborious.. and messy!!!
burning off is quicker and yes you make the whole house smell of smoke LOL

save money and go for DULUX's own brand (decorators 1st) of liquid paint remover. make sure you get the water washable one!!!!!!
that way you can wash/neutralise the wood after, its a lot easier to do with water.. than the original spirit base (methelated spirit washable) paint remover you can buy. NITOMORSE also do a water washable version too btw.

either paint or varnish remover will work

salsa-king

where did you get this guy from, was he cheap??????

salsa-king

is this two pack filler????
not polly filler type of stuff!!!!

Deep Singh

Thanks all.

Brendan, I'm not doing it myself!

SK, yes was cheaper than the 'big boys'. I wonder if I'm going to live to regret it! So what is better, chemical removal or burning? I read somewhere that burning on windows has the potential to crack the glass. Or is that only if you don't do it properly?

Yes I've bought the two pack filler. BTW I really appreciate all your help. I'd really rather employ real craftsmen but the problem is around here they charge a fortune. I'm having the whole house gutted and have paid top dollar for many things but am now close to running over budget. I have followed your advice though and all the stuff is dulux trade

salsa-king

D/S
its always the same... ppl 'skimp and save' when they come to decorating... but they forget that its the decorator that finishes off the job.. and make every other trade's work look fab.

buring off is ok if your skilled enough to do it. witha 'flame' you'll crack the glass quite easily, a hot air gun will be better.. lower heat setting.. but will take a lot longer than a 'gas' Blow torch.

and i do know my stuff
advanced craft painting and decoarting qualification. winner of the BDA cup 1994 (british decorators association)
specialised in Decorative Paint Finishes (marbling / graining / broken colour work)
and lectured in P&D at Basford Hall college nottm too

we only do top end 'private' work.. which is nice, I couldn't stick new build work.


thats the old boy.. started up in business 1965... and we still have his apprentice who joined him in at 15 from school in 1966 still working for us.. thats 40yrs this september, and on the books all that time!!!!

richardg

sk - can't believe you posted an pic of your 'old boy'!

salsa-king

before he had his 'freddy boswell' hair cut! lol

All Torque

SK so would you turn down a job like the ones you posted if it was new build after all it was once and someone done it then so to speak.

salsa-king

maybe i should have said 'contract work' eg..a housing estate of 200 houses all the same.. all mag emulsion and white gloss

the house above is total re build 99%... we stripped the wall paper off in june '99 and the walls were so poor.. they ended up all being re plastered. new wood work.. + more
the swimming pool was all brand new from scratch.

All Torque

This is one of our new build projects, not the best pics as i`ve pinched them of their website


And its also the venue for the 2010 Ryder cup

salsa-king

wow.

salsa-king

what time scale do you have to get it finished? how many work on it at once?

richardg

we're into new build, but nothing like that! looks like one hell of a scheme
i changed our spec a number of years ago on the decoration side - for the last 10 years or so we have been using a bs numbered emulsion other than magnolia or barley white (currently bs22 b15 swansdown) and white satinwood. i'm experimenting with arcylic eggshell at home at the moment and considering whether that may be the next move for woodwork