Ever had one of those "oh F***,F***,F*** Moments!
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Ever had one of those "oh F***,F***,F*** Moments!
Had a Very big one today
was giving a neighbour a hand to do his cambelt, we were trying to ascertain if the pistion was at TDC, so i slipped a thin file (round) into the sparkplug hole to see.. and he moved the crankshaft, ting!!!!!
one short file
Oh f*ck, f*ck, f*ck, f*ck, as the realisation of what had happened sunk, in...
cylinder head off here we come,,, blox blox blox...
i explained to my neighbour what had happened, and he was understandibly not impressed, so we set about trying to get it out without removing the cylinder head,, after about 30 mins, he said he was off to get some parts and left me too it, I asked him to pick up a magnet tool for retrieving dropped bolts hoping we could utilise that.
when he came back he didnt have a magnet explaining that the local shop didnt know what he was on about, so i said i would go back,
I explained that the car was out of action and it would prolly need the head off to recover the bit.. (and guess who would be picking up the tab)
anyway off to b&Q and i managed to get a telescopic magnet, and when i arrived back we set to work, I snapped off the the last two segments, and pushed it into the plug hole
came out no broken bit,
tried again but went left
tried again going toward the back of the piston
YES YES YES YES
on the end of the magnet was 2 inches of file yes yes yes
we very quickly replaced the plug.....
And to cap it all, he couldnt do the cambelt, as he needed a new tensioner, as he omited to get one with the belt.
we put everything back together and turned it over.... it started and ran , went out for a quick run, and all fine,
PHEW!!!!!
not one of the better days i can tell you
Mart
was giving a neighbour a hand to do his cambelt, we were trying to ascertain if the pistion was at TDC, so i slipped a thin file (round) into the sparkplug hole to see.. and he moved the crankshaft, ting!!!!!
one short file
Oh f*ck, f*ck, f*ck, f*ck, as the realisation of what had happened sunk, in...
cylinder head off here we come,,, blox blox blox...
i explained to my neighbour what had happened, and he was understandibly not impressed, so we set about trying to get it out without removing the cylinder head,, after about 30 mins, he said he was off to get some parts and left me too it, I asked him to pick up a magnet tool for retrieving dropped bolts hoping we could utilise that.
when he came back he didnt have a magnet explaining that the local shop didnt know what he was on about, so i said i would go back,
I explained that the car was out of action and it would prolly need the head off to recover the bit.. (and guess who would be picking up the tab)
anyway off to b&Q and i managed to get a telescopic magnet, and when i arrived back we set to work, I snapped off the the last two segments, and pushed it into the plug hole
came out no broken bit,
tried again but went left
tried again going toward the back of the piston
YES YES YES YES
on the end of the magnet was 2 inches of file yes yes yes
we very quickly replaced the plug.....
And to cap it all, he couldnt do the cambelt, as he needed a new tensioner, as he omited to get one with the belt.
we put everything back together and turned it over.... it started and ran , went out for a quick run, and all fine,
PHEW!!!!!
not one of the better days i can tell you
Mart
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Originally Posted by mart360
was giving a neighbour a hand to do his cambelt, we were trying to ascertain if the pistion was at TDC,
Or failing that taking the camcover off and looking at the position of the cam lobes.
Why do so many people think they can work on cars Yet, you wouldn't try to rewire your TV would you...
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Originally Posted by rr_ww
IME Its much better just to look at the timing marks on the crank pulley. Or failing that a mark on the cam pulley. Or failing that a mark on the flywheel that you can see through a access hole.
Or failing that taking the camcover off and looking at the position of the cam lobes.
Why do so many people think they can work on cars Yet, you wouldn't try to rewire your TV would you...
Or failing that taking the camcover off and looking at the position of the cam lobes.
Why do so many people think they can work on cars Yet, you wouldn't try to rewire your TV would you...
Mart
couldnt look at the cams or cam pullys it was an early 8 valve internal cammed engine
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Well as long as the marks still line up when you've finished it doesn't actually matter. You "can" change a belt with the engine anywhere, as long as it doesn't move at all when you've got the belt off. Its just easier to have 2 reference points to check if it has moved.
And as for "internal cammed" Where else would you expect the cams to be? On the gearbox?
I'd better remind you to turn it over by hand before you actually crank it over to start, just to check if you've buggered it up
And as for "internal cammed" Where else would you expect the cams to be? On the gearbox?
I'd better remind you to turn it over by hand before you actually crank it over to start, just to check if you've buggered it up
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Originally Posted by rr_ww
Well as long as the marks still line up when you've finished it doesn't actually matter. You "can" change a belt with the engine anywhere, as long as it doesn't move at all when you've got the belt off. Its just easier to have 2 reference points to check if it has moved.
And as for "internal cammed" Where else would you expect the cams to be? On the gearbox
I'd better remind you to turn it over by hand before you actually crank it over to start, just to check if you've buggered it up
And as for "internal cammed" Where else would you expect the cams to be? On the gearbox
I'd better remind you to turn it over by hand before you actually crank it over to start, just to check if you've buggered it up
On an overhead cam, the cams are over the top of the engine, and above the valves, the lobes of the cam pressing down onto the valves themsleves.
on early engines, the camshaft was in the block behind the pistons and used pushrods to push rockers that pushed the valves up and down., hence an internal camshaft
mart
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Originally Posted by mart360
On an overhead cam, the cams are over the top of the engine, and above the valves, the lobes of the cam pressing down onto the valves themsleves.
on early engines, the camshaft was in the block behind the pistons and used pushrods to push rockers that pushed the valves up and down., hence an internal camshaft
mart
on early engines, the camshaft was in the block behind the pistons and used pushrods to push rockers that pushed the valves up and down., hence an internal camshaft
mart
With respect, I do know the difference between OHV and OHC engines. (I would hope so, given Ive been doing this sort of thing for a few years now) But I suppose technically both cams are Internal to the engine. "Internal cammed" is certainly not a term I've ever heard or used. Maybe you're old
Maybe you could of looked at the pushrods positions, then you would of known where the cam was
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Originally Posted by rr_ww
With respect, I do know the difference between OHV and OHC engines. (I would hope so, given Ive been doing this sort of thing for a few years now) But I suppose technically both cams are Internal to the engine. "Internal cammed" is certainly not a term I've ever heard or used. Maybe you're old
Maybe you could of looked at the pushrods positions, then you would of known where the cam was
Maybe you could of looked at the pushrods positions, then you would of known where the cam was
mart
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Not the best of feelings, is it....
I too have felt the same feeling, I shall bore you with the details.
I was in my friends garage servicing my 309GTI, pride and joy at the time.
Anyway up on a four poster ramp, draining the oil into a 205Ltr drum on wheels, they always use this drum...
Did that bit, and replaced the filter and sump-plug, so then moved the drum out the way, as you do.
At the time I was getting annoyed by the clutch pedal squeeking, so my mate said, open the door a press the clutch a few times with your hand, Ill see if its the cable at this end.....it wasnt.
So anyway, I replace the plastic sump guard.....
I then went around to the rear pass side of the ramp where the UP and DOWN buttons were, and lowered the ramp.
CRUNCH.....
Instant Gullwing Peugeot.
The open door hit the drum and bent it up by about 12 inches....excellent.
I too have felt the same feeling, I shall bore you with the details.
I was in my friends garage servicing my 309GTI, pride and joy at the time.
Anyway up on a four poster ramp, draining the oil into a 205Ltr drum on wheels, they always use this drum...
Did that bit, and replaced the filter and sump-plug, so then moved the drum out the way, as you do.
At the time I was getting annoyed by the clutch pedal squeeking, so my mate said, open the door a press the clutch a few times with your hand, Ill see if its the cable at this end.....it wasnt.
So anyway, I replace the plastic sump guard.....
I then went around to the rear pass side of the ramp where the UP and DOWN buttons were, and lowered the ramp.
CRUNCH.....
Instant Gullwing Peugeot.
The open door hit the drum and bent it up by about 12 inches....excellent.
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I had one last week...
Changing the oil on my old Primera. I've already drained the old oil, replaced the filter and put the sump plug back in nice and tight. I have an open can of fresh oil with about 4 litres left, which I pour into the engine. While the oil drains down into the sump, I transfer the contents of the draining can into the now empty oil can ready to take to the tip. No problem.
Check the level on the dipstick and it's well over the max mark. Ar*e. Turns out that this car has only 3 litre oil capacity - should have checked first.
Never mind: I'll just put the draining can back under the car, remove the sump plug and let the excess oil drain out.
So, I loosen the sump plug, and oil begins to trickle out - which is the last point at which things are going to plan.
My fingers are slippery with engine oil, and I drop the sump plug. Within moments the flow of oil has swept it into the hole in the side of the draining can, which it completely blocks. Oil is now pouring over the side of the can and onto the garage floor, and the sump plug is completely submerged. I have no idea where it is at this point.
I retrieve a washing-up bowl from the top of a cupboard just in time to catch the last few drips, as the over-filled sump completely empties itself onto the floor of the garage. Dragging out the draining can only makes the area covered by the spill larger. The car is parked over an oil spill that would make headline news if only there were penguins involved.
With the sump plug located and refitted, 3 litres of fresh oil go in the engine, enabling me to back the car out of the garage to see the mess. It takes a good couple of hours, a pressure washer, a bucket of soapy water and a whole bag of cat litter to clean up the spill before I can bring the car back inside and finish the service. It needs new brakes, which I fit without too much trouble.
Two days later the battery is completely dead for no reason at all.
A few days after that, I have a new battery and can at last use the car again. The s*dding brakes are binding and the calipers need stripping down and cleaning.
I've taken it to a garage this time...
Changing the oil on my old Primera. I've already drained the old oil, replaced the filter and put the sump plug back in nice and tight. I have an open can of fresh oil with about 4 litres left, which I pour into the engine. While the oil drains down into the sump, I transfer the contents of the draining can into the now empty oil can ready to take to the tip. No problem.
Check the level on the dipstick and it's well over the max mark. Ar*e. Turns out that this car has only 3 litre oil capacity - should have checked first.
Never mind: I'll just put the draining can back under the car, remove the sump plug and let the excess oil drain out.
So, I loosen the sump plug, and oil begins to trickle out - which is the last point at which things are going to plan.
My fingers are slippery with engine oil, and I drop the sump plug. Within moments the flow of oil has swept it into the hole in the side of the draining can, which it completely blocks. Oil is now pouring over the side of the can and onto the garage floor, and the sump plug is completely submerged. I have no idea where it is at this point.
I retrieve a washing-up bowl from the top of a cupboard just in time to catch the last few drips, as the over-filled sump completely empties itself onto the floor of the garage. Dragging out the draining can only makes the area covered by the spill larger. The car is parked over an oil spill that would make headline news if only there were penguins involved.
With the sump plug located and refitted, 3 litres of fresh oil go in the engine, enabling me to back the car out of the garage to see the mess. It takes a good couple of hours, a pressure washer, a bucket of soapy water and a whole bag of cat litter to clean up the spill before I can bring the car back inside and finish the service. It needs new brakes, which I fit without too much trouble.
Two days later the battery is completely dead for no reason at all.
A few days after that, I have a new battery and can at last use the car again. The s*dding brakes are binding and the calipers need stripping down and cleaning.
I've taken it to a garage this time...
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Originally Posted by mart360
Sorry didnt mean to offend, its not easy to spot ones skills via a post i grew up with old ford engines, and the cam shaft was always internal so i allways called them internally cammed. as opposed to ohc which as you rightly pointed out is outside the block
mart
mart
They don't make em like that any more.
#13
Had one today, turning off a round about, 20 yards from the exit is a juction for a supermarket. With the steering wheel barely straightened and because of this the left indicator is still blinking, a chav woman pulls out of the supermarket juction, I had to slam on the brakes, abs kicking in, and i nearly T boned the stupid b!tch. She stops in the middle of the road blocking all the traffic and gives it all the w@nker and t0sser gesturing like fishwife.
Last time I took my test, double dashed lines across a juction means give way to traffic on a major road! just because the indicator is still blinking, you should never assume that they are going to turn left and pull out in front of traffic, its common sence and its in the Highway code. The stupid *****!! THERE!! I feel mildly better!
Last time I took my test, double dashed lines across a juction means give way to traffic on a major road! just because the indicator is still blinking, you should never assume that they are going to turn left and pull out in front of traffic, its common sence and its in the Highway code. The stupid *****!! THERE!! I feel mildly better!
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Originally Posted by rr_ww
No offence taken. When I was at college we had 2 main engines that actually ran. (We had several Zetecs, but they were just for strip down purposes) Kents to do Valve clearences and chain changes on. And Pintos for timing. As apparently the valves cannot hit the pistons at any point regardless of how much you bugger it up.
They don't make em like that any more.
They don't make em like that any more.
these new ones with ther interfierance fits
Mart
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Originally Posted by AndyC_772
I had one last week...
Changing the oil on my old Primera. I've already drained the old oil, replaced the filter and put the sump plug back in nice and tight. I have an open can of fresh oil with about 4 litres left, which I pour into the engine. While the oil drains down into the sump, I transfer the contents of the draining can into the now empty oil can ready to take to the tip. No problem.
Check the level on the dipstick and it's well over the max mark. Ar*e. Turns out that this car has only 3 litre oil capacity - should have checked first.
Never mind: I'll just put the draining can back under the car, remove the sump plug and let the excess oil drain out.
So, I loosen the sump plug, and oil begins to trickle out - which is the last point at which things are going to plan.
My fingers are slippery with engine oil, and I drop the sump plug. Within moments the flow of oil has swept it into the hole in the side of the draining can, which it completely blocks. Oil is now pouring over the side of the can and onto the garage floor, and the sump plug is completely submerged. I have no idea where it is at this point.
I retrieve a washing-up bowl from the top of a cupboard just in time to catch the last few drips, as the over-filled sump completely empties itself onto the floor of the garage. Dragging out the draining can only makes the area covered by the spill larger. The car is parked over an oil spill that would make headline news if only there were penguins involved.
With the sump plug located and refitted, 3 litres of fresh oil go in the engine, enabling me to back the car out of the garage to see the mess. It takes a good couple of hours, a pressure washer, a bucket of soapy water and a whole bag of cat litter to clean up the spill before I can bring the car back inside and finish the service. It needs new brakes, which I fit without too much trouble.
Two days later the battery is completely dead for no reason at all.
A few days after that, I have a new battery and can at last use the car again. The s*dding brakes are binding and the calipers need stripping down and cleaning.
I've taken it to a garage this time...
Changing the oil on my old Primera. I've already drained the old oil, replaced the filter and put the sump plug back in nice and tight. I have an open can of fresh oil with about 4 litres left, which I pour into the engine. While the oil drains down into the sump, I transfer the contents of the draining can into the now empty oil can ready to take to the tip. No problem.
Check the level on the dipstick and it's well over the max mark. Ar*e. Turns out that this car has only 3 litre oil capacity - should have checked first.
Never mind: I'll just put the draining can back under the car, remove the sump plug and let the excess oil drain out.
So, I loosen the sump plug, and oil begins to trickle out - which is the last point at which things are going to plan.
My fingers are slippery with engine oil, and I drop the sump plug. Within moments the flow of oil has swept it into the hole in the side of the draining can, which it completely blocks. Oil is now pouring over the side of the can and onto the garage floor, and the sump plug is completely submerged. I have no idea where it is at this point.
I retrieve a washing-up bowl from the top of a cupboard just in time to catch the last few drips, as the over-filled sump completely empties itself onto the floor of the garage. Dragging out the draining can only makes the area covered by the spill larger. The car is parked over an oil spill that would make headline news if only there were penguins involved.
With the sump plug located and refitted, 3 litres of fresh oil go in the engine, enabling me to back the car out of the garage to see the mess. It takes a good couple of hours, a pressure washer, a bucket of soapy water and a whole bag of cat litter to clean up the spill before I can bring the car back inside and finish the service. It needs new brakes, which I fit without too much trouble.
Two days later the battery is completely dead for no reason at all.
A few days after that, I have a new battery and can at last use the car again. The s*dding brakes are binding and the calipers need stripping down and cleaning.
I've taken it to a garage this time...
oil slick like torry canyon accros the drive, (still there today) used two big woolen type dust sheets to mop it up, and a bag of cement!!!
didnt make the same mistake this time though!!
Mart
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Originally Posted by yoza
Not the best of feelings, is it....
I too have felt the same feeling, I shall bore you with the details.
I was in my friends garage servicing my 309GTI, pride and joy at the time.
Anyway up on a four poster ramp, draining the oil into a 205Ltr drum on wheels, they always use this drum...
Did that bit, and replaced the filter and sump-plug, so then moved the drum out the way, as you do.
At the time I was getting annoyed by the clutch pedal squeeking, so my mate said, open the door a press the clutch a few times with your hand, Ill see if its the cable at this end.....it wasnt.
So anyway, I replace the plastic sump guard.....
I then went around to the rear pass side of the ramp where the UP and DOWN buttons were, and lowered the ramp.
CRUNCH.....
Instant Gullwing Peugeot.
The open door hit the drum and bent it up by about 12 inches....excellent.
I too have felt the same feeling, I shall bore you with the details.
I was in my friends garage servicing my 309GTI, pride and joy at the time.
Anyway up on a four poster ramp, draining the oil into a 205Ltr drum on wheels, they always use this drum...
Did that bit, and replaced the filter and sump-plug, so then moved the drum out the way, as you do.
At the time I was getting annoyed by the clutch pedal squeeking, so my mate said, open the door a press the clutch a few times with your hand, Ill see if its the cable at this end.....it wasnt.
So anyway, I replace the plastic sump guard.....
I then went around to the rear pass side of the ramp where the UP and DOWN buttons were, and lowered the ramp.
CRUNCH.....
Instant Gullwing Peugeot.
The open door hit the drum and bent it up by about 12 inches....excellent.
Mart
#18
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Originally Posted by rr_ww
And Pintos for timing. As apparently the valves cannot hit the pistons at any point regardless of how much you bugger it up.
They don't make em like that any more.
They don't make em like that any more.
Incidentally, the MX5 engines are non-interference too - which is great for those of us who only do 2000miles a year in ours ........ no worries if it snaps due to age
Pete
#19
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Talking of old Fords ...... had a 3Litre Granada GXL once.
It needed a new distributor, this was driven via a Hexagon bar about 6 inches long.
Under my brothers instructions he was a Ford Mechanic at the time!
I undid the clamp holding the distributor and 's l o w l y' pulled out the distributor ............... the oil vacuum on the engine end of the hex shaft would not break - a quick tug and it did .... dropping the bar into the sump!!
You want to know what my brother said? "Leave it and buy another!" WTF??
Apparently it always happened in the garage and they just left it in the sump, "It's going nowhere he said!"
Oh yeah, like I could drive around with a 6" steel bar bouncing about in the sump! How many cars were driving around with pieces in the sump??????
Anyway, dropped sump as far as we could (crossbar was in the way on those cars) about 2" just enough to fiddle it out!
Pete
It needed a new distributor, this was driven via a Hexagon bar about 6 inches long.
Under my brothers instructions he was a Ford Mechanic at the time!
I undid the clamp holding the distributor and 's l o w l y' pulled out the distributor ............... the oil vacuum on the engine end of the hex shaft would not break - a quick tug and it did .... dropping the bar into the sump!!
You want to know what my brother said? "Leave it and buy another!" WTF??
Apparently it always happened in the garage and they just left it in the sump, "It's going nowhere he said!"
Oh yeah, like I could drive around with a 6" steel bar bouncing about in the sump! How many cars were driving around with pieces in the sump??????
Anyway, dropped sump as far as we could (crossbar was in the way on those cars) about 2" just enough to fiddle it out!
Pete
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Originally Posted by pslewis
Talking of old Fords ...... had a 3Litre Granada GXL once.
It needed a new distributor, this was driven via a Hexagon bar about 6 inches long.
Under my brothers instructions he was a Ford Mechanic at the time!
I undid the clamp holding the distributor and 's l o w l y' pulled out the distributor ............... the oil vacuum on the engine end of the hex shaft would not break - a quick tug and it did .... dropping the bar into the sump!!
You want to know what my brother said? "Leave it and buy another!" WTF??
Apparently it always happened in the garage and they just left it in the sump, "It's going nowhere he said!"
Oh yeah, like I could drive around with a 6" steel bar bouncing about in the sump! How many cars were driving around with pieces in the sump??????
Anyway, dropped sump as far as we could (crossbar was in the way on those cars) about 2" just enough to fiddle it out!
Pete
It needed a new distributor, this was driven via a Hexagon bar about 6 inches long.
Under my brothers instructions he was a Ford Mechanic at the time!
I undid the clamp holding the distributor and 's l o w l y' pulled out the distributor ............... the oil vacuum on the engine end of the hex shaft would not break - a quick tug and it did .... dropping the bar into the sump!!
You want to know what my brother said? "Leave it and buy another!" WTF??
Apparently it always happened in the garage and they just left it in the sump, "It's going nowhere he said!"
Oh yeah, like I could drive around with a 6" steel bar bouncing about in the sump! How many cars were driving around with pieces in the sump??????
Anyway, dropped sump as far as we could (crossbar was in the way on those cars) about 2" just enough to fiddle it out!
Pete
so you are human after all
Mart
#24
I always used to twitch like hell about things going down the plug holes or the inlets when i was working on enegines-always used to stuff rag in the holes. Always used a long piece of welding wire for getting TDC which could not fall in and only bend a bit it it got squeezed for some reason.
Such a nuisance to have to have the head off!
Never seen an external camshaft but my mate had a Rudge Ulster 'bike which had external rockers operated by pushrods for the four overhead valves. The exhaust valves were inclined to each other so had a clever linkage to operate them from the push rod. Bit like the BMW 328 engine or the similar 2 litre Bristol engine which was a copy of the BMW. The inlet valves on the 'bike were parallel so needed only one double rocker.
Les
Such a nuisance to have to have the head off!
Never seen an external camshaft but my mate had a Rudge Ulster 'bike which had external rockers operated by pushrods for the four overhead valves. The exhaust valves were inclined to each other so had a clever linkage to operate them from the push rod. Bit like the BMW 328 engine or the similar 2 litre Bristol engine which was a copy of the BMW. The inlet valves on the 'bike were parallel so needed only one double rocker.
Les
Last edited by Leslie; 30 January 2006 at 11:44 AM.
#25
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Originally Posted by pslewis
Talking of old Fords ...... had a 3Litre Granada GXL once.
It needed a new distributor, this was driven via a Hexagon bar about 6 inches long.
Under my brothers instructions he was a Ford Mechanic at the time!
I undid the clamp holding the distributor and 's l o w l y' pulled out the distributor ............... the oil vacuum on the engine end of the hex shaft would not break - a quick tug and it did .... dropping the bar into the sump!!
You want to know what my brother said? "Leave it and buy another!" WTF??
Apparently it always happened in the garage and they just left it in the sump, "It's going nowhere he said!"
Oh yeah, like I could drive around with a 6" steel bar bouncing about in the sump! How many cars were driving around with pieces in the sump??????
Anyway, dropped sump as far as we could (crossbar was in the way on those cars) about 2" just enough to fiddle it out!
Pete
It needed a new distributor, this was driven via a Hexagon bar about 6 inches long.
Under my brothers instructions he was a Ford Mechanic at the time!
I undid the clamp holding the distributor and 's l o w l y' pulled out the distributor ............... the oil vacuum on the engine end of the hex shaft would not break - a quick tug and it did .... dropping the bar into the sump!!
You want to know what my brother said? "Leave it and buy another!" WTF??
Apparently it always happened in the garage and they just left it in the sump, "It's going nowhere he said!"
Oh yeah, like I could drive around with a 6" steel bar bouncing about in the sump! How many cars were driving around with pieces in the sump??????
Anyway, dropped sump as far as we could (crossbar was in the way on those cars) about 2" just enough to fiddle it out!
Pete
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Originally Posted by Bubba po
I think Ali-B should bring some cans round and you three can have a tedious party.
I've had days where it seems like an episode of "King of the Hill" - standing on some mates driveway with a few beers and saying "yup" every 30 seconds when we were supposed to be helping
Anyhoo, goes to show, a Mondeo* cambelt is twice as hard to replace as a Impreza cambelt ....
So, in conclusion....
Why do Subaru dealers charge twice as much as Ford to change it???
*yes, I know it's not a mondeo, but any excuse to have a rant at Subaru's extortionate pricing
Last edited by ALi-B; 30 January 2006 at 01:01 PM.
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