Mice_Elf

Bad, bad idea... Especially if it's male. I have had 17 rabbits, too and even spayed males will suddenly spray all over the place. It's foul and smelly and incredibly unhygienic, obviously.

Yes, rabbits can be clean and neat - if their surroundings are kept clean and neat, they will use a corner in which to perform their toilet. However, that will not stop them bouncing around and suddenly defecating as and when. This means that you will end up with rabbit poo all over the place but rabbit wee in the litter tray.

It's a bad plan. Really.

Little Miss WRX

Register it on my site.

Big Daz

My g/f and I have 2 House Rabbits, They were both litter trained within weeks and as long as any "stray" droppings are picked up and put in the litter tray they are very tidy animals.
Other hints - buy spare phone cable and plugs, you WILL need them,
Mine can tell the difference between High volts mains and low volts & phone cable, Don't know how !
Also make sure all carpet edges are fixed down securely to remove the temptation of digging and chewing
Good Luck

Big Daz

Diablo

Male and housebound

You've seen Monty Python and The Holy Grail



be afraid...be very afraid...

mate of mine has one - it will attack anything on sight

D


[Edited by Diablo - 8/26/2003 11:08:54 AM]

scoob_babe

friends of mine had a pedigree rabbit that they kept indoors without too many problems although it seemed to like the taste and texture of the wallpaper. Aptly named Nesbitt and chewed through a Doc Martin boot!!

Big Daz

Don't know about rats but my female rabbit scares the S**t out of my parents dog every time they meet.
I would be inclined to keep the Rabbit & Rats seperate until the rabbit gets used to its new surroundings and feels secure ( lying flat out with its legs streached out behind ) then introduce them
to each other gradually over a couple of weeks. This may sound like a lot of effort but its worth it to avoid fights. BTDT.
Big Daz

Little Miss WRX

Pah, too busy to talk about footie? You part time Gooner.

Nevetas

Shoot the bloody thing!

Mice_Elf

Rabbits can also become very territorial. Some rabbits will become "guard rabbits" and attack things that enter their territory - ie - visitors.

Rabbits growl like dogs and can be vicious blighters!

Everything and anything handy will be chewed. Might be an idea to get the biggest hutch you can afford and keep it in that during the day when you're not about and let it have free rein during the evening.

Rabbits will also "dig up" carpets to burrow and plants as they eat roots naturally in the wild.

Mice_Elf

Rats can and will attack anything. It's a possibility that they will attack the rabbit, yes.

zax

Had a rabbit as company for my guinea pig a while back - big mistake! Came home one night and found Gizmo (the GP) cowering in the corner with blood running from his mouth and the rabbit just staring at him looking mean. OK Gizmo was a horny little guy and had probably tried to hump the bunny, but physical violence against my little mate couldn't be alowed!

So the bunny came out of the hutch and she lived free range in the flat. Big mistake #2! She ate almost everything, and what she couldn't eat she tried to burrow through. Found my TV remote with all of the buttons chewed off, holes in the carpet especially in corners, you get the idea...

Better get a hutch

Big Daz

B2O,
My two use the litter tray for both pee and droppings 90% of the time, 1 male & 1 female, Another hint to prevent random pee / chewing / droppings is to put a rug / old blanket over some place they sit most when out of their hutch - better to wash a chewed old blanket than buy new carpets
I have no territorial problems with mine, maybe just lucky !
They stay in a Very Large hutch during the day and get out in the evenings.
p.s rabbit teeth are sharp too but their kick is even better- Watch out for flying rats.
Big Daz

Little Miss WRX

You're just mean mister....hope the bunny chews ya toes when you aren't looking.

Mice_Elf

From here


Rabbits - Litter Training

Rabbits are somewhat naturals at litter training, although some flexibility may be required by the owner. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this in litter training.

First a suitable litter is needed. The rabbit will probably like to lay in the litter box and may even nibble on the litter, so something absorbent and safe is necessary. Rabbit urine also has a strong odor, so something that absorbs odor is preferable. Litters can be found that are made from a variety of materials that work well, including alfalfa, recycled paper, citrus, or oats. Hay can work well too, and some owners even use rabbit pellets as these are economical (but may not be the best choice as the rabbit may overeat if pellets are constantly available). Clay and clumping litters are not a good choice as the rabbit will likely ingest some litter.

For litter pans, cat litter boxes work pretty well, although smaller pans such as cake pans may work for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to back right up to the edge and deposit outside the box, some creativity may be required. A covered cat box is a good option, or a dishpan that has higher sides can work as well (an lower entry can be cut into one side). As mentioned earlier, working with your rabbit is the best way to accomplish reliable training.

Older rabbits are a little easier to train, as they do not need to eliminate as frequently and their natural desire for cleanliness is more developed. However, once rabbits hit puberty the desire to mark territory becomes very strong, so spaying or neutering by 4-6 months of age will make litter training a lot easier. Along with health benefits, undesirable urine spraying and other marking behaviors will be drastically reduced. As well, marking will be reduced if the rabbit feels secure in its home. Tips to reduce the territorial marking by rabbits include not reaching into the cage to pull the rabbit out (makes a rabbit feel threatened), not forcing the rabbit back into its cage, and doing maintenance tasks (cleaning, refilling water, etc.) while the rabbit is out which will not disturb the rabbit while in its cage. It is preferable to allow the rabbit to come and go from the cage at it's own will - which may not be the most convenient but if the rabbit is marking its cage or cage area this may be necessary. Try to set up the cage so the rabbit has easy access in and out, let the rabbit come out on it's own terms and gently try to herd or entice the rabbit bake into it's cage rather than picking it up and forcing it in.

To start, confinement and supervision is the key. If a rabbit is allowed to urinate and defecate wherever it likes from the beginning, it will be much harder to train. Keeping in a cage (not too large at first) with a litter pan, and watching carefully when the rabbit out out will be necessary in the beginning. Place a litter box in the cage, and note where the rabbit goes. It may start using the box, or it may pick another corner of the cage. If this is the case, then move the litter box to here the rabbit seems to prefer. Flexibility on litter box placement may be necessary both in and out of the cage.

Once the rabbit is using the litter pan in the cage, allow the rabbit out of the cage in a limited space. Provide a litter box outside the cage, and perhaps make it enticing by placing a a treat or favorite toy in the box. Watch the rabbit for signs it is about to urinate or defecate (usually backs up and lifts tail slightly), and try to herd it to the box immediately (if your rabbit is very calm about being picked up it should be okay to place it right in the box). If the rabbit uses the box, give the rabbit a treat: food, toy, petting, or praise (whichever would be the best reward for the individual bunny) right away. If you notice the rabbit tends to head to one area to do its business, consider putting the box here.

Accidents will happen, and punishment has no place in training a rabbit. If the rabbit has an accident, it won't hurt to take the rabbit to the box, although the rabbit may not make the connection. Clean the spot with club soda, diluted vinegar, or a commercial pet stain/odor remover, and watch the rabbit more carefully while it is out. The key is to get the rabbit to the box before it goes.

Over time, the rabbit should develop a preference for using the box, and the freedom of the rabbit can be increased. More boxes may be necessary as the amount of space your rabbit is allowed increases, as the rabbit may not be inclined to travel a relatively long way to find a box. Again, if the rabbit repeatedly chooses one place in he room to eliminate, consider moving a litter box there, it is often easiest to work with what the rabbit naturally wants to do. If such a location is really incomvenient, try using a box there for a while and then gradually move it out of the way a bit.

The process sounds daunting, but usually goes pretty smoothly as long as the owner works with the rabbit's natural tendencies and provides undivided attention to the rabbit during it's free time in the beginning. Establishing a routine with your rabbit will also help, as rabbits are creatures of habit. Sometimes a previously trained rabbit will get a little careless, and this usually means starting from the beginning with restricted freedom until the rabbit is trained again.

Little Miss WRX

Can you not get a budgie instead? Less work and more time to register.

Big Daz

Shield as many cables as poss. with the type of pipe used as overflows on the back of washing machines - Rabbitproof.

Mice_Elf - Bl**dy H*ll that must have taken ages to type

Big Daz

Mice_Elf

Oops...double post...

[Edited by Mice_Elf - 8/26/2003 12:04:39 PM]

Little Miss WRX

Bah, at least we grabbed a point though.

It was only against the Boro so don't get all excited for yourselves yet, 40 odd more matches to go yet.

Mice_Elf

=blows on poorly, typed-out fingers=

Little Miss WRX

Hey, someone's gotta do it.

Anyhow, Pool were lucky to walk away with a point IMHO, though it just goes to show the usual Villa lethargic status.

Get registered and we can banter there.