Mark Jackson

Anybody done any ?

I ripped our shed down over the weekend and want to replace it with a brick one of a decent size, will lay a concrete base and then build on that, any advice

Famous last words but, It cant be that difficult, can it ?

hades

First piece of advice. Don't pick up an engineering brick and hit it in the middle with a brickies float/trowel expecting it to break. All you succeed in doing is hurting your hand. Second piece of advice - don't think "aah I just need to hit it harder" -it just hurts more If you're trying to cut engineering bricks, use a brick bolster and lump hammer, much easier and less painful.

My first attempt was a pond on the patio. It's held back over a tonne of water for a few years and I'm no builder, so I guess it isn't that hard.

CELL

I reckon bricklaying is a bit of an art. I can quite happily build a wall no higher than 5 or 6 bricks, after that the walls can appear slightly bent

I would recommend you ask a builder for a quote if you want a decent job, im not saying you arent capable, but its more tricky than you would expect

Cheers

Chris

princessyin

Also, don't go buying the expensive quick drying stuff. Dries as you are mixing it and isn't worth the extra money if you ask me!

CrisPDuk

I did a small retaining wall in my garden a few weeks ago. Go for it But take your time, and make sure the first course is level because it affects the whole wall.
Don't mix to much mortar when you first start, about half a bag of sand to start with, or you will find the stuff going off before you use it. The stops for mixing also give your back a break from leaning over.

As CELL says if it's a short wall (mine was only six courses) you will be able to do it yourself, but if you are going much higher, get a quote off a brickie. Unless, like me you are looking for that uneven 'rustic' look anyway

Oh yeah, and be prepared for the week of aching in your calves, thighs & back, you will be using muscles you never even knew existed

P.S Don't use the B&Q etc ready-mixed stuff either, it's ****.

ChrisB

I helped my old man build a six high wall in our garden. We stuck it up and found the cement cracked and thing was falling down after a while.

Turns out the bricks we used (left over from a build project elsewhere) soaked all the water out the cement. Rebuilt it but soaked the bricks in a bucket of water before sticking it all together.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Go for it!
Don't forget mortar plasticiser, (Wickes, builder's merchants), buy decent tools if you have none, (Screwfix), and, if you've never laid bricks before, get a book out of the library, 'cos it's not as straightforward as it seems.
Once you get the hang of setting out corners at right angles, using a spirit level in 3 different planes, and laying to a string line, it'll go well. The first few courses seem to take for ever.
I built a dwarf wall, for a conservatory, double skinned, with engineering bricks for the courses below dpc, and with 135 degree angles, "squint bricks", engineering bricks at every corner, cut with an angle grinder, closed cavity at the doorway etc, and they were the first bricks I ever laid. I had to tie it in to the house wall, and by the time I got to the red bricks, I was so confident that I produced a pattern with blue bricks in the front wall!
Alcazar

MIRP !

done a bit my self and alcazar has the right approach just remember that if it doesn't look right pull it down and scrape the mortar off the bricks before it dries and start again, there is a bit of a knack to it so try and try again you will get the hang, to finish of the pointing I use a bent peace of 1/2" pipe. As for mortar plasticiser its a must, if you don't have any just use some washing up liquid, honest it works. if you want cheap bricks see if there is a brick makers near you and ask what they want for the seconds, built a 6X30 foot wall with my Dad and with seconds, didn't cost a thing we just had to collect, all the brick where sound just have black marks on them,

all the best.

Matt

mista weava

as i run a building firm, i have certain advice to offer.
get yourself a decent level, not one that has been bashed about, laser ones are quite cheap now. agree with above comments about getting first course bang on, if it starts to go a funny shape don't think "oh i will just lay the next one skewed the other way to compensate" this does not work. go steady and make sure ther muck is mixed stiff enough to support the bricks. too sloppy and it will squirt out the sides and the bricks will move out of line as you go!
believe me there is nothing simple about it. also depending on the length of the walls, you probably need to build in some piers for extra support. as it is a shed you may find it a great deal more complex than you imagine. did you make an accurate plan of how the strucure was before? if you get the dimensions wrong and the walls end up out of square, the roof won't fit properly. is it a flat roof or a pitch roof?
weava

[Edited by mista weava - 11/11/2002 2:05:06 PM]

mitch779

Mark,

If you shed is to be concrete base / brick you should check whether you need planning permission before doing any work at all!!!

I would not advocate the use of an admixture/ plasticiser though these are claimed to help reduce the freezing point of the water in the mixture they have adverse effects on the strength of the mortar. Never lay bricks / blocks when the tempreture is below 4 deg C, the freezing point of water as this weakens the mortar.

You will undoubtedly need damp proof courses / membranes if the structure is to be reasonably water tight.

You should read the following british standard BS5628art3 - code of practice for use of masonary, this is pretty thourough interms of what is required to make a safe structure.

Also the Collins DIY manual is very useful interms of the practicalities of building / setting out of walls bases etc. It only costs £20 and is a pretty informative book.

If in doubt get a professional to do it, and I suppose you thought that bricke's had it easy?

regards Mitch

mitch779

Mark,

If you shed is to be concrete base / brick you should check whether you need planning permission before doing any work at all!!!

I would not advocate the use of an admixture/ plasticiser though these are claimed to help reduce the freezing point of the water in the mixture they have adverse effects on the strength of the mortar. Never lay bricks / blocks when the tempreture is below 4 deg C, the freezing point of water as this weakens the mortar.

You will undoubtedly need damp proof courses / membranes if the structure is to be reasonably water tight.

You should read the following british standard BS5628art3 - code of practice for use of masonary, this is pretty thourough interms of what is required to make a safe structure.

Also the Collins DIY manual is very useful interms of the practicalities of building / setting out of walls bases etc. It only costs £20 and is a pretty informative book.

If in doubt get a professional to do it, and I suppose you thought that bricke's had it easy?

regards Mitch

David_Wallis

thought water froze at 0degrees

carl

Indeed. 4 degrees Celsius is the temperature below which water starts to expand as it cools.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

It does, but it has maximum density at 4 degrees, below that, and it starts to expand, making for similar problems to freezing: as the bricks and sand and cement are all contracting, the water expand and spoils the joint.
Alcazar

Nimbus

You learn some very useful stuff on Scoobynet

mattstant

its also very amusing when the wall has been built and the ice crystals melt making the wall fall down i have seen this happene it makes for a very disgruntled bricklayer who had to relay several courses all over again.

Mark Jackson

Many thanks for all the advice, superb stuff

I am going to wait until the summer but in the meantime I am going to get some bricks and mortar and practice !

CrisPDuk

I would advocate mitch's comment about the Collins DIY manual, it was the best £20 I'd ever spent until GT3 came out