Daikin Altherma expert wanted please.
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Daikin Altherma expert wanted please.
A bit of a long shot but are there any Daikin Altherma experts on here ? I need some help in amending the C/H ON-OFF schedule on the control box. System is an LT split, about 18months old.
Thanks.
Brian.
Thanks.
Brian.
#2
Scooby Regular
A quick google came up with this
Last edited by Don Clark; 20 December 2022 at 08:17 AM.
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks but mine is a later one with no dropdown flap, just a top screen and central OK button. I have the Daikin manual but it is of no help.
Cheers
Brian.
Cheers
Brian.
#5
Scooby Regular
Nothing but bad reviews for this system…heating never gets hot enough especially for old dears….hot water is not hot enough..10 grand to get installed…
#6
Scooby Regular
daikin.co.uk
Dedicated homeowner support line: 0845 641 9271
Dedicated homeowner support line: 0845 641 9271
#7
Scooby Regular
Maybe this is whats required
https://www.zerohomebills.com/produc...w-hybrid05b33/
wouldn't you get some kind gov grant ?
probably not
https://www.zerohomebills.com/produc...w-hybrid05b33/
wouldn't you get some kind gov grant ?
probably not
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Having had to debug our IVT heatpump due to a plethora of issues I found that a lot was not the heat pumps fault, but either it being mis-sold for the application (under-rated) or a installation and/or user issue. The main crux is switch from a boiler capable of instantly dishing out 30killowatts of heat all day long to a heat pump that can only drizzle out 8kw under ideal conditions and less if it's really cold outside or if it's been operating too long!
For starters insulation. You need LOTS of it. Just because you've had your loft done, cavities filled and fitted double glazing with fancy certificates means it's ok and been done right. Often it's not. You have to be super **** to stop all draughts, fix cold bridging and insulation bypassing (like the plasterboard tent phenomenon). If you have dorma windows, trickle vents, flat roof extensions or apex ceilings and gu10 spotlights cut into the ceiling, forget it! There's no way you'll get the required insulation levels to get this system to cope and work properly/economically.
Second radiator sizing. As flow temps are lower you need massive radiators...like three times bigger or twice as many for each room! My average sized double bedroom has two, 2m long double convectors! A traditional heating system would only need one single convector. Underfloor heating should also have pipes laid closer together preferably in a spiral, not zig-zag. ALL pipes must be insulated everywhere, right up to the appliance with taped joints with insulated valves and joints.
Third hot water tank sizing. Plumbers often spec based on outdated/inaccurate flow rate information that's not reflective of real world use. That nice shower you have will be double the expected flow rate the plumber calculated for. And we all know someone who spends twice as long in there than what average stats say. Add to that the tank is held at a lower temp (50-55 degrees as opposed to 60+ ) combined with the heat pumps slow re-heating/recovery rate mean you rapidly run out of hot water if the tank is under-sized. My tank is 460litres. That is "just" enough for two female back to back showers or two simultaneous male showers (separate bathrooms, please )....BUT, only if I set it on boost beforehand in winter otherwise the second poor sod is going get a cool/tepid shower to rinse off the lather!
Fourth user...these systems are meant to 'drip' feed heat into the house. They don't like being turned off or too low whilst out and back on when your in. They just don't have the capacity to re-heat your home that quick, causing icing issues of the evaporator so the heat pump part has to shut down. Also weather compensation needs to be setup properly so it works in correct proportion to outdoor temps which on IVTs is mind boggling as it has to be configured manually. They absolutely hate people that "feel" cold one day then warm the next despite the temp being identical (not being sexist here ), then overreact by wanging the room stat way too high or low. Typically these systems can only raise room temp by 0.5degrees per hour, less if it's really cold outside. So messing with the stat will take a few hours to notice any increase in room temp. You can get these folk a battery powered heated gilet or socks - i use these at work and they're ace!
Anyhoo, suffice to say it's little wonder plenty of people have problems with them. I miss my 35kw combi.
Last edited by ALi-B; 28 December 2022 at 02:48 PM.
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