Electric shower advice please
#1
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Electric shower advice please
I need to buy an electric (not power) shower. I've decided on Mira since they get very good reviews.
The ones with the highest rating ie 10.8kw don't come with thermostatic control, the 9.8kw ones do.
So should I go for the lower rating and thermostatic control or higher rating and no thermostatic control?
Thanks
( the appropriate power cable required for 10.8kw is not a problem)
The ones with the highest rating ie 10.8kw don't come with thermostatic control, the 9.8kw ones do.
So should I go for the lower rating and thermostatic control or higher rating and no thermostatic control?
Thanks
( the appropriate power cable required for 10.8kw is not a problem)
#3
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Do you have crap mains water pressure? If not, you wouldn't really need a thermostatic shower. I don't and mine is fine even when the dishwasher or something is on. My mums house is another story though, it's got a thermostatic shower as the water pressure is lower and is easily affected by other appliances.
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Ok, I'll stick my hands up
Iv got a mira 8kw, and iv no idea whether it's thermostat controlled - i don't run other appliances, the dishwasher is awol presently only thing maybe is washing machine
Iv got a mira 8kw, and iv no idea whether it's thermostat controlled - i don't run other appliances, the dishwasher is awol presently only thing maybe is washing machine
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Like I said, I don't have a thermostatic shower and I've never had any issues with it. They all have a thermal and low pressure cut outs so if there's no water at all they'll stop dead. Also, make sure the power supply is protected properly by a RCD or similar.
Last edited by piehole1983; 12 December 2014 at 07:35 PM.
#9
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I think when it means non-thermostatic is that it has a temperature control by altering the flow rate. Certainly our old electric shower was like that (and it was a pile of poo, so was binned - never seen a electric shower that I could class as adequte interms of flow rate IMHO )
It however will always have a high-limit thermostat to prevent scalding. All electric showers have this...even the 20yr Santon I used to have to endure (and proudly smashed up when we had a new bathroom fitted )
The issue is I guess is if someone flushes a tolet or the washing machine decides to fill up, if the mains plumbing is inadequate, you'll get a hot shot of water when the pressure drops (like the Combi in my old house used to do before I fixed with a 22mm direct from stop-**** to boiler with full flow-valves). If you have 15mm into the house, which firstly goes through a kitchen and/or downstairs loo before reaching the upstairs bathroom, then its likely you'll suffer the same annoyances as I did (as water will always take the path of least resistance - which is NOT the shower).
It however will always have a high-limit thermostat to prevent scalding. All electric showers have this...even the 20yr Santon I used to have to endure (and proudly smashed up when we had a new bathroom fitted )
The issue is I guess is if someone flushes a tolet or the washing machine decides to fill up, if the mains plumbing is inadequate, you'll get a hot shot of water when the pressure drops (like the Combi in my old house used to do before I fixed with a 22mm direct from stop-**** to boiler with full flow-valves). If you have 15mm into the house, which firstly goes through a kitchen and/or downstairs loo before reaching the upstairs bathroom, then its likely you'll suffer the same annoyances as I did (as water will always take the path of least resistance - which is NOT the shower).
Last edited by ALi-B; 12 December 2014 at 07:41 PM.
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I think when it means non-thermostatic is that it has a temperature control by altering the flow rate. Certainly our old electric shower was like that (and it was a pile of poo, so was binned - never seen a electric shower that I could class as adequte interms of flow rate IMHO ).
Last edited by piehole1983; 12 December 2014 at 07:42 PM.
#12
I need to buy an electric (not power) shower. I've decided on Mira since they get very good reviews.
The ones with the highest rating ie 10.8kw don't come with thermostatic control, the 9.8kw ones do.
So should I go for the lower rating and thermostatic control or higher rating and no thermostatic control?
The ones with the highest rating ie 10.8kw don't come with thermostatic control, the 9.8kw ones do.
So should I go for the lower rating and thermostatic control or higher rating and no thermostatic control?
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If I were you I would get it checked out as you don't want an electrical fire for the sake of a couple of hundred quid.
#18
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I'm having some new wiring and new consumer unit fitted so I'll get it checked.
#24
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Your main fuse is not of an adequate rating, but maybe the whole consumer unit is not rated high enough either so I would be careful about replacing the fuse with anything larger.
If I were you I would get it checked out as you don't want an electrical fire for the sake of a couple of hundred quid.
If I were you I would get it checked out as you don't want an electrical fire for the sake of a couple of hundred quid.
Once we get the loft done, we'll probably go for a new boiler system anyway, so will sort non-electric showers out at the time as well.
#25
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In hindsight, though, I should have checked my main fuse rating before getting a 10.5kW shower...
10.5kW is an insane amount of electricity, really, especially when you look at how small the shower units look. 10.5kW is like a decent size industrial welder running at full pelt
10.5kW is an insane amount of electricity, really, especially when you look at how small the shower units look. 10.5kW is like a decent size industrial welder running at full pelt
#27
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Mine's 60, so it varies depending on when your house was built etc etc. The largest EDF will supply to a single dwelling/board is 100 amps, apparently.
Anyway, moral of the story is: Most houses will probably be OK, but if your house is from the 30's (say), then it's possible that the incoming cable is not thick enough to support more than 60 amps, in which case, don't be greedy on the power, or be prepared to shell out a lot of money to have the cable uprated (here there's a caveat: sometimes the incoming cable is thick enough to support a higher rated fuse, in which case it will set you back ~180 quid to have the (main) fuse box uprated).
Anyway, moral of the story is: Most houses will probably be OK, but if your house is from the 30's (say), then it's possible that the incoming cable is not thick enough to support more than 60 amps, in which case, don't be greedy on the power, or be prepared to shell out a lot of money to have the cable uprated (here there's a caveat: sometimes the incoming cable is thick enough to support a higher rated fuse, in which case it will set you back ~180 quid to have the (main) fuse box uprated).
#28
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Well it's been fitted, the existing cable was already 10mm.
It'll be interesting to see what happens when it's run at the same time as 100m2 of electric underfloor heating!
It'll be interesting to see what happens when it's run at the same time as 100m2 of electric underfloor heating!
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