These are brick walls in a Victorian house. The plaster is in poor condition and not suitable to be skimmed over.

Rather than going back to brick is there any reason you can't just overboard and skim?

Thanks

 

Nope ! I overboarded most my house with foil backed plasterboard

 

I guess if they stick to it. ( without falling off...)

 

Just stick the boards on with board adhesive. They walls will be warmer to the touch than a solid wall so actually a better job.

 

Tight ****, you shouldn't of bought an old house if you're going to cut corners for renovation. Strip walls back, batten out and fit insulation and new plasterboard.

Only kidding, insulated plasterboard best bet

 

Thanks.

Steve, is it possible to use screws rather than glue? In case the existing plaster is blown in places then the screws could attach into the brick work?

 

Don't think that'll work

 

You can't screw the boards to the brickwork, just hack off any loose plaster if your bothered about it and dab over the walls as is. Once the boards are stuck to the walls it's doubtfull that loose plaster will make any difference as the boards will hold it all in place and board adhesive sets really hard so it will hold the plaster in place.


If your that bothered about screwing it to hold it better you can get some proper hammer fixing and once the boards are fixed and set you can drill and hammer in say 6 fixings per board.

 

Thanks Steve.

Do you need to remove wallpaper prior to using board adhesive?

Also what do you think it should cost to get a 12ft by 12ft room hacked back to brick, rendered and then skimmed?

 

Hope it's dry back there, board adhesive doesn't like teh wet

 

Yeah the adhesive won't stick to paper but you can just remove the paper where the dabsof adhesive will go if that's what you want to do. Don't get the room rendered as I think your just going to give yourself more problems, just board over the walls and be done with it. There is less issues with a boarded wall than a solid plaster wall.


As for price I have no idea as I deal with new houses and don't have anything to do with little private jobs, remember if your hacking it off the waste will fill a skip so there is that costs on top of any material and labour costs.

 

If the original plaster is loose you wanna hack it off before you dab it, for the size of the room i would hack it all off and dab it with insulation backed boards

 

Board adhesive will stick to that type of surface better than solid plaster


Don't be going for any fancy type of board as you don't need it just dab a 12.5mm wall board or if you want to help with sound transfer between rooms dab a 15mm sound block board on the walls.

 

Genuine question...

Why do this? Is it just cheaper than having it replastered?

 

Instant straight level walls , easier than hacking off , patching up and skimming.
Boards still need skimming like
And as above....warmer walls off the brickwork

 

I prefer boarding , tho annoying when fitting shelves at stuff you cNt find a pb fixing

 

Fair enough..

But doesnt it mean all the door casings,window sill,skirtings and stuff need to be altered?
Or is it just an option when the room is gutted ?

Surely plastering would be more authentic and sympathetic to the original house ?

 

Hadn't thought about all the fixtures and fittings to be let into the plasterboard,
Nightmare.
Also, if it's joining on to next door surely heat loss is irrelevant

 

Doing a house up it is better to use new methods which leave less maintainence, there is no reason to do solid plastering also it's getting to be a dying art and not many will leave a good flat surface. I see how bad some people leave boarded houses so I would hate to see them float and skim

 

I beg your pardon??

It's not that little, it's a whole house, though a small one. I just used the 12ft by 12ft as an example to get an idea of the cost.

My preference would be to go back to brick, I've done it before. However property prices in London have softened over the last few months so my margin has tightened. As a result I'm exploring ways to cut back on costs.

 

Get a professional in (or 3) to give you a quote for both options, I am guessing that once you hack and replaster with 13mm you will be on par if not slightly under the cost of drylining and skimming the walls.

You then will need to allow for the extra stuff, fittings (as mentioned above) window and reveals as everything will be a bit further away, what about your skirtings as if you overboard you will need to remove them and possibly reinstall them onto the drylining

It's a hole host of pain in all honesty, if it was me and it depends on if you are changing everything I would go the replaster route.

It may be that you can patch in large areas rather than remove all, it would need looking at by someone who does it.

 

As a joiner i prefer battoning the wall with 2x1 then screw the sheets on , but there are many makes of no nails type adhesive , pink grip and grip tite being the two my work use , you would use one tube per sheet ,, if you take the plaster of the adhesive won't stick to the dusty surface , another thing we use is dryfix it's like expanding foam but doesn't expand anything like as much , it is a bsstard to use , messy , boards take a while to set , end up with buldges where it has expanded , hate the stuff , good for small areas imo .

Edited to say , did I read that right , did someone say put a few hammer fixings in the sheet , lol

Edited to add
both methods plasterboard and plaster would require skirtings and facings off.

If plasterboarding take the door and stops off add timber to door post to bring back to flush , on the door stop side replace the stops with wider ones to flush of new plasterboard ,refitt all skiftings and facings , window culls might have a big enough overhang to not need replaced but aprons would . If it's got big facings you might be able to Finnish the plaster board into them ..

Plaster board doesn't have to be skimmed and can be Ames taped instead , most times in Scotland plaster board is Ames taped , decorators do it

 

All the skirtings, architraves and sockets are being replaced anyway.

I think I'll probably go back to brick, I suppose it's the only way to be sure of a proper job.

 

Yes that is the proper way, but i would deffo dab insulation board to brick not just regular boards, and dab is all thats needed not hammer fixings or derivatives of no more nails lol

 

I took all the lose stuff off back to brick and re-plastered where required, then skim over everything, you may well find that a large proportion of it is still good. my thinking was by the time i'd fcuked about with over boarding, door shuts etc it was easier and cheaper, I am a half decent plasterer even though I'm a little slow compared to the 2 lads that I get in to do the ceilings at £200 a pop.

 

He could even make it a feature wall, just the brick

 

If you read what I said it was " use some hammer fixings in the fixed board". As he seems worried about the plaster shelling if the board is dabbed over it but it won't and proper hammer fixings for this will stop his need to panic.

2x1 screwed to walls in a terrible idea as they used to do this in all the show garages years ago but we're plagued with cracking and nail pops.

There is also no need for foam backed boards and I have no idea why people are suggesting tem. We will pretend that since I have been plastering 35 years and there is nothing I haven't done that I may no a little

 

I have a good mate who is a restoration plasterer and he has agreed with everything you have written on this thread.

 

There is so many variables in what you want to do but may be I can give you an idea on the house price if you tell me how many square metres it is, amount of bedrooms and ceiling height, are you boarding over all walls and ceilings?

Also are you supplying the gear or do you want a contractor to? I do new houses for persimmon homes and in my opinion if you want the house to look like new I would board over everything.

 

[QUOTE We will pretend that since I have been plastering 35 years and there is nothing I haven't done that I may no a little [/QUOTE]
your getting there mate