dpb

Feel free to move this somewhere fitting, more exposure here of course

Is my Draper wrench faulty.

Doing up pedals on bike. ( different direction left and right ) , one way is fine clicks as you expect, other way doesn't click at all

Frightened striping threads

It's in no way old

salsa-king

buy a DeWalt 10.8 XS lithium battery one, well pleased with mine

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Some of the cheaper torque wrenches only work in one direction.

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Cannae go wrong with Halfords for the price IMO. I got one, paid about 70quid and it blows my 40quid clarke one out of the water.

dpb

Your kidding, right.


It's Draper. Model 3001A

zip106

Turn your bike around to face the other way.

dpb

Haha...

Well there you go, I had no idea thing might not work both ways.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Nope; I have a few cheapies to use for wheel nuts and stuff...they all work clockwise, but not anti.

The digital Snap-On jobby which is kept for more critical stuff like cylinder head bolt and big ends etc. does it both ways as well as torque angle. But with what that cost it bloody well should (£300).

dpb

Amazed, but thanks

This one was 60 or so. Iv got another one I paid similar for, for everything 3- 20nm for the bike as well - Im wonder whether thats the same



This has saved me from stripping threads. ( thought something was up )

nik52wrx

I've never known anyone be so precise with pedals. Greased threads, finger tight and nip with a pedal spanner normally works for me.

dpb

Good point, I think this stems from doing up seat post clamp and breaking it.
,this is on tt bike
( carbon clamp and post )

And then having to source another, importer didn't seem to want to know

Eventually...I managed to find a ( much cheaper) copy

dpb

Cleats also came undone mid ride a while back . Real pita

After these two incidents I was forced to buy baby torque wrench

Matteeboy

I torque my carbon bars and crank bolts but other than that, just do it by feel; you wont break a pedal. Just remember to grease the thread so you can undo it again.

Many injuries caused by very tight pedals suddenly letting go...

dpb

There's also no way of getting spanner on pedals, there's no flat on pedal side of axle

( been down to check again )

Matteeboy

Big Allen key? They are a b1tch!

dpb

8mm wrench bit from halfords, had to buy it special

Devildog

As above - no need to torque pedals.

Grease, hand tight and nip up with allen key.

For cleats I'd use locktight or similar, once you're 100% with positioning.

john banks

Torque values should specify if a lubricant is used, otherwise they are meaningless?

dpb

Instructions say grease threads and then give torque settings , so presumably taken into account

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I was just about to post that until I read this John.

On cars, most manufacturers say NOT to lubricate the wheel nuts as it can cause them to be over-tightened.

People and mechanics alike still slops loads of copper grease on them though

CrisPDuk

If you don't use copper grease though Ali, you can't get the wheel nuts off at a later date when they have corroded to the wheels

PaulC72

the really really cheap ones you have to make your own clicking noise both ways!

Chip

I attended a course on torque here: http://www.wchristie.com/torque-tool-training.html
and have to say as training courses go it was fascinating. Another good one was Hydraulics at the National fluid power centre.

Chip

Correct, and as greases, oils etc all have differing COF they should not be used.

Matteeboy

Well using "feel" to tighten nuts hasn't failed me in 35 years of cycling...