Attempting to restore wooden garden furniture, advice required please
#1
Attempting to restore wooden garden furniture, advice required please
I need some advice because I do not know what the best method is in order to bring the furniture back to its former glory. I also don't know what finish to use afterwards?
This picture below is what I am working with. The right-side is what it was like after I power washed it (it was really flakey and came off quite easy), and the left-side is what it looks like now after I have sanded it:
This is what one of the legs looks like after I have sanded it. Do I need to sand all the legs and underneath bit like what I have done in the picture below on this leg?
As you can see, pretty good condition underneath:
Finally 4 chairs in this condition.... Do I need to sand all of this as well in order to get the end result finish to match the top of the table?
Do I finish the work with a varnish, stain, or oil? As the top of the table is almost back to bare wood, do I need to sand every single bit of all the chairs and underneath the table so that when I stain/varnish/oil(?) it all appears the same? I don't want to waste my time sanding if I can simply brush on varnish and it'll all look the same and matching.
General advice required please of the best way to tackle this job...
This picture below is what I am working with. The right-side is what it was like after I power washed it (it was really flakey and came off quite easy), and the left-side is what it looks like now after I have sanded it:
This is what one of the legs looks like after I have sanded it. Do I need to sand all the legs and underneath bit like what I have done in the picture below on this leg?
As you can see, pretty good condition underneath:
Finally 4 chairs in this condition.... Do I need to sand all of this as well in order to get the end result finish to match the top of the table?
Do I finish the work with a varnish, stain, or oil? As the top of the table is almost back to bare wood, do I need to sand every single bit of all the chairs and underneath the table so that when I stain/varnish/oil(?) it all appears the same? I don't want to waste my time sanding if I can simply brush on varnish and it'll all look the same and matching.
General advice required please of the best way to tackle this job...
Last edited by LSherratt; 15 July 2014 at 01:33 PM.
#2
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The answer really depends on how good a finish you want.
If it was me I wold have the chairs chemically dipped to strip them and then lightly sand them prior to coating with a good quality exterior stain.varnish.
The table I would just persevere with to get it all back to bare wood.
That said if you want it more functional than good looking you can just get the worst of the loose stuff off and paint it rather than stain it so it covers up the different colours where the old wood stain remains.
The key is to get it nice and smooth and use good quality product on it be it varnish or paint. Not the cheap half price stuff from certain DIY stores. Go to a proper paint shop!
If it was me I wold have the chairs chemically dipped to strip them and then lightly sand them prior to coating with a good quality exterior stain.varnish.
The table I would just persevere with to get it all back to bare wood.
That said if you want it more functional than good looking you can just get the worst of the loose stuff off and paint it rather than stain it so it covers up the different colours where the old wood stain remains.
The key is to get it nice and smooth and use good quality product on it be it varnish or paint. Not the cheap half price stuff from certain DIY stores. Go to a proper paint shop!
#3
I want to do a good job in order to get a good finish and don't mind spending the time and effort to do it, as long as I'm doing it the most effective way possible.
Now that you mention it, I'm sure you get special wood strippers in DIY stores in order to get wood back to bare wood? I don't want to paint it though, a nice stain or varnish is what I want.
Edit: Maybe this? http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/decking-stripper
Now that you mention it, I'm sure you get special wood strippers in DIY stores in order to get wood back to bare wood? I don't want to paint it though, a nice stain or varnish is what I want.
Edit: Maybe this? http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/decking-stripper
Last edited by LSherratt; 15 July 2014 at 01:45 PM.
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I done an old bench over the winter, stripped all the paint from the metal, sandblasted & repainted. Replaced the wood with Iroko timber then used a teak oil. It impressed me.
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I want to do a good job in order to get a good finish and don't mind spending the time and effort to do it, as long as I'm doing it the most effective way possible.
Now that you mention it, I'm sure you get special wood strippers in DIY stores in order to get wood back to bare wood? I don't want to paint it though, a nice stain or varnish is what I want.
Edit: Maybe this? http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/decking-stripper
Now that you mention it, I'm sure you get special wood strippers in DIY stores in order to get wood back to bare wood? I don't want to paint it though, a nice stain or varnish is what I want.
Edit: Maybe this? http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/decking-stripper
I would seriously look at dipping the chairs to strip them, it usually isn't that expensive and everything comes off so your final finish will be top notch.
#6
Thanks F1, I'll have a look into that to see if there's anywhere around my area and weigh up the costs etc, if not I'd have a go at using a commercial wood stripper.
So basically I need to get all the furniture back to bare wood unless I intend to paint (which I don't want to do)?
So basically I need to get all the furniture back to bare wood unless I intend to paint (which I don't want to do)?
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Thanks F1, I'll have a look into that to see if there's anywhere around my area and weigh up the costs etc, if not I'd have a go at using a commercial wood stripper.
So basically I need to get all the furniture back to bare wood unless I intend to paint (which I don't want to do)?
So basically I need to get all the furniture back to bare wood unless I intend to paint (which I don't want to do)?
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I'm fairly sure the original finish is some heavy gauge stain finish. I would spend bit time fairing in the old and then re coating in the same.
Unless you want a different finish - it's going to take seriously time to strip the chairs
Iv no idea what kind of dipping F1 is talking about.??
- don't know what you coat it in either, you'll be varnished every year if you go that way
Would it look ok anyway on the wood? Is it pine?
Unless you want a different finish - it's going to take seriously time to strip the chairs
Iv no idea what kind of dipping F1 is talking about.??
- don't know what you coat it in either, you'll be varnished every year if you go that way
Would it look ok anyway on the wood? Is it pine?
Last edited by dpb; 15 July 2014 at 02:17 PM.
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This sort of thing. I have used them before and the results are excellent as long as the wood is solid.
http://dipadoor.co.uk/
http://dipadoor.co.uk/
#13
It's some kind of standard hardword I'm guessing? Defiantly not pine which is soft wood.
I want a nice stained finish, a bit like how it was before but not as red. If you search Ronseal garden woodstain, for example, they do different shades and should protect for 3 years. But you can also get garden furniture spray oil in a can made by Cuprinol which can be used to top up the protection each year.
I want a nice stained finish, a bit like how it was before but not as red. If you search Ronseal garden woodstain, for example, they do different shades and should protect for 3 years. But you can also get garden furniture spray oil in a can made by Cuprinol which can be used to top up the protection each year.
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I had a round garden table and 8 chairs very similar to yours which went grey on me
I power washed them and then used teak oil. Forget it! Teak oil is expensive and deteriorates in sunlight (they forget to mention this). So I used a non-shiny varnish which didn't look as good as the oil but lasted much longer.
I also bought a cover for the table to use in winter and stored the chairs underneath.
dl
I power washed them and then used teak oil. Forget it! Teak oil is expensive and deteriorates in sunlight (they forget to mention this). So I used a non-shiny varnish which didn't look as good as the oil but lasted much longer.
I also bought a cover for the table to use in winter and stored the chairs underneath.
dl
#19
I would have sanded it, and then weatherproof Sikkens-ed it, siimple.
Mind you, that deck chair would have been a bawrstward to sand, so I would have got it dipped before Sikkens-ing it.
Mind you, that deck chair would have been a bawrstward to sand, so I would have got it dipped before Sikkens-ing it.
#21
I would keep it to one side until November....
Then...
Firewood on the bonfire !!!!
If you do feel the need to keep ,then try Ronseal decking oil (not Ronseal decking stain as it goes like paint and will peel off)....
Then...
Firewood on the bonfire !!!!
If you do feel the need to keep ,then try Ronseal decking oil (not Ronseal decking stain as it goes like paint and will peel off)....
#22
Likely to be Iroko or teak.
The finish on it probably factory sprayed.
If you can get off what's on, then you need to give it a few coats of stain that doesn't impart a finish i.e not shiny.
Sadolin Classic should do the trick (not Sadolin Extra- that's a satin sheen) as it soaks in.
The finish on it probably factory sprayed.
If you can get off what's on, then you need to give it a few coats of stain that doesn't impart a finish i.e not shiny.
Sadolin Classic should do the trick (not Sadolin Extra- that's a satin sheen) as it soaks in.
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