tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Before I start, a big thankyou to Darms, who not only sold me some mirrors and the switch that he had bought second hand, (but not had time to fit), but pointed me in the direction of the "how to" from the USA:
NorthUrsalia.com: STi Version 6 Power Folding Mirrors

Now, I'll start by advising anyone wanting to do this, to read the above "how to" carefully, then have a look here, since I've found that it's a LOT easier than that guy made out, no soldering to pcb's for a start!

Right, here's a couple of pics of the mirrors after I received them from Darms, filled a few gouges and scratches and rubbed them down, then had them sprayed:

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If you look closely, you'll see that one of the mirrors hasn't got the multi-connector on the end of the wires. That was because on that one the wiring connector wouldn't pass through the hole in the mirror support, which I wanted it to do, in order to completely dis-assemble the mirrors for spraying. The connectors were released from the plastic connector using a needle, but NOT BEFORE MAKING A DIAGRAM OF WHAT WENT WHERE, INCLUDING WHICH WAY THE CONNECTOR WAS "UP" AND WHICH SIDE I WAS VIEWING FROM

In the next pic we see the new switch fitted to the centre console:

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Looking at these next two pics, the first shows the underside of the new switch:

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And the second shows the same view of the UK switch, note that it has two lfewer connectors than the JDM switch:

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I found a Legacy in a local scrapyard, from which I sourced the connector to the mirror switch and two connectors , one for each mirror. I actually wanted the metal pins from out of the plastic connectors.

The next pic shows the car's wiring connector for the mirror switch complete with two extra connectors inserted, taken from the Legacy switch connector:

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I then put the connector back on the switch and used a circuit tester to check which wire was live when I had the fold/unfold part of the switch in position "unfold":

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In this case, it was the red wire. At this point I also tested that the new switch did all the things it ought to with the new mirrors, up, down, left, right. It did, so all was well.

Using some thinwall wire I bought locally for 21p per metre, , I soldered two lengths of each colour, (in this case brown and white), two each of the new wires coming from the new switch connectors:

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The soldered joints were protected by heat shrink tubing and the four wires, two to each mirror, were encased in some plastic sleeving to make a neat job.

The two wires for each mirror were then run through the centre console, up under the dash and out through the same grommet that the door wiring goes through. I did this by piercing said grommet with a length of thick electrical solid core wire, making a hook on the end, and dragging the new wires through. They were zip-tied to the existing wiring, in three places to follow the contours of the existing stuff, hopefully to avoid chafing/trapping.

They come up through nthe door, keeping them out of the way of the window, etc, and again, taping them to exsiting wiring.

The new mirrors had FIVE wires going into their multiconnector, whereas the old connectorson the car's wiring had three. I therefore removed two from each of the connectors I got from the Legacy and placed them in the appropriate holes in the car's existing wiring. You can see them here, they are yellow and black:

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Now came the great moment. I connected the live from the switch "unfold" to each of the new wires above, in turn, to see which one unfolded the mirror.
Neither one did

Thinking about it, I came to the conclusion that BOTH wires needed to be in place before it would work, since the switch, knowing Subaru, would be a changeover, rather than a simple on/off.

I was right, and wiring so that the live for "unfold" went to yellow, while the other went to black, produced the required effect.

The next photo shows the wires soldered and heat-shrink protected.

I tested it all out and it worked perfectly, so all I had to do was put everything back together.

Took me most of a day, but I had to go to town with my youngest to sort out his student banking, (two and ahlf hours), then I had TWO visitors, so not much was done apart from drinking coffee.

While I had the centre console out, I took the time to fit this:

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to allow me to use the wife's TomTom if I ever want to, or run a wire through to the boot for a coolbox etc. Cost me £4 off e-bay, and is wired into permanent live and to earth. Saves using the cig lighter which isn't as conveniently placed.

I'm really chuffed with the new mirror function, and again extend my thanks to Darms, who sold me the stuff for what it cost him: in this case £40 plus p&p, well worth it.

Now all I have to do is clean up, and sell on, my old mirrors on e-bay.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

About time someone done a less complicated guide

I've done these before, I initially tried to put the folding motors into my UK mirrors, and had to cut the plug off to pass the motor through like you did, just to save painting.
But I found thyat the UK bases were plastic, and not metal like the folding ones, and the motor mounting points weren't in the same place.

I cheated a bit compared to you. I was lucky enough to have the wiring already in the door (MY00), and then into the door connector block just by your feet. So rather than run wires from the mirror connector, through the door, I traced the coloured wires to the block and went straight off that, under the carpet to the centre console.

My mirror switch connector had the spare ports, so I run them into the base of that, just held by insulating tape, been fine for the last 3 years . I did try to dismantle that plug, to connect to the spades but I'm too impatient.

Still my best mod so far, and I still find myself showing them off sometimes by folding them in through width restrictions

Like the extra power port idea, would be good to see a guide on that

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

It's dead easy, the socket came of e-bay, it's made by Durite who make loads of car parts, and has two male spade terminals on it's rear.

Once I had the centre console out, (5 screws), I checked for clearance, remembering that it had to clear the floor and the gear lever cover/oddments tray.

I then drilled it 25mm with a spade bit on medium speed, (25 mm was the closest to the 28mm it needs), and filed the hole carefully until it fit perfectly.

I then removed plastic burrs with a stanley knife and fitted the socket, tightening the plastic nut on the rear with an adjustable spanner....do NOT overtighten, as it's only plastic, threaded onto plastic, and won't be taking any serious loads

I then prepared two wires, with female spades in plastic covers on one end. The first was connected to the outer terminal of the plug, and via a ring connector, to earth on the centre tunnel, there are about 4 bolts to choose from.

The second was Scotchlocked into the permanent live feed for my Sony changer control, which lives under the centre console in front of the armrest glovebox.

I might have considered soldering, but it's never going to be used for more than a TomTom, as I don't have an electric coolbox yet

Job done.

darms

iTrader: (5)

Well done mate......

jonny_693

iTrader: (5)

Cracking guide this, it inspired me to get mine working again. Should be put in the technical guides section IMO. For a bonus point does anyone know how to wire them up to close when you set the alarm?

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

A guy on here used to sell the kit to do that: https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...automated.html

starship impreza

iTrader: (1)

Bought one of these modules great idea and only takes about 10 minutes to fit
Link below to where you can buy them
Products - GTR OWNERS CLUB
Gary

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

Its the same guy as the link I posted. So he may do a better proice on Scoobynet.

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

He's about, I mailed him and received an instant response, the module is £21 posted, I'm looking into it now as it's mainly for a GTR, but we are talking about if it will fit a Scoob, and a UK one modded to have folding mirrors at that.

I'll update when I know more. I MAY ask him to post me one to where I am in France, and do it here............LOL

C8XY

iTrader: (2)

Is it a problem leaving the switch on to the mirrors? are they designed to stay powered? why have the mid position switch if so?
I've been looking in to making a timed unit that works completely independent of the mirror switch, but if the mirrors don't mind being powered all the time, then it really makes it a LOT easier lol, does anyone know if its ok to do so?

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

The mirrors stop moving and the motor stops, once they reach fully open/fully closed, so I reckon they must have limit switches, otherwise the motors would burn out.

C8XY

iTrader: (2)

That's good to know, I'll be fitting mine this weekend hopefully, once I have them livened up it shouldn't be too difficult fitting the relay.

Question: will the electric folding mirrors guts fit in to the standard electric mirror housing on a 99/00?
Answered in post 2 lol - woops

If not I'll have to get them prep'd ready for paint

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Errrrrrrrrrr, what relay?

C8XY

iTrader: (2)

To make them work automatically with the ignition mate

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Go on then. I'll bite, how does it do that?

C8XY

iTrader: (2)

I would have to draw you a diagram mate, but those kits you can buy are basically just relays that you can pick up for well under a fiver!!
There is a couple of ways to do it depending on how the mirrors use the voltage, until I actually fit mine and get my tester on it I won't know which one to use

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Must be a changeover relay, then?
Add it to this thread if you get it sorted, why doncha?

C8XY

iTrader: (2)

of course

hopefully fitting mirrors saturday if the weathers good (good guide btw, will come in handy )

jonny_693

iTrader: (5)

My toad alarm has total closure on it so presumably it would be easy to wire them up to close in the same way as the windows?

C8XY

iTrader: (2)

Haven't had a chance to fit the mirrors this weekend due to work but I had some time today to make the module:

It will enable automatic open/close of the electric folding mirrors (with the ignition), I've added an "auto/off switch" so if I don't want this functionality I can turn it off.

This all works alongside the JDM switch that came with my mirrors.

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

So how DOES it work? It looks a little confusing, with all red wires

I like my wires colour coded

Beastra

iTrader: (20)

Wired everything up but only the passenger mirror folds/unfolds. Have tried another mirror and that doesn't work either.

Have checked all my connections and they seem fine. Connected the black wires from both mirrors together and the blue wires(did't have red) together and connected them to the mirror switch wiring.

Any ideas would could be the problem????

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Can you swap the wires over so that the wires leading to the mirror that DOES work now go to the one that doesn't etc?

If so, what's the effect?

If the opposite mirror now has a fault, it's your wiring, if the SAME mirror still won't work, it's the mirror or the wiring from it's connector to it's motor.

IIRC, the mirrors don't fold/unfold unless BOTH wires to them are connected correctly.

Beastra

iTrader: (20)

OK, tried the spare mirror (which didn't fold/unfold on the drivers side) on the passenger side and it folds and unfolds

So the fault lies with my wiring to or from the drivers side

Thanks.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Must be. Are you sure you have the two wires going to THAT side connected correctly, a) at the mirror connector, and b) at the switch?

TBH, you need a circuit tester/multimeter to be sure.

Mine is third one down on here:
VWP - multimeters & circuit testers

only mine is the cheapo brass version, from a local carshop, had it 10+ years

P1_Bagz

iTrader: (22)

can someone put the pics back on this thread plz!

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, I accidentally deleted them off photobucket