Powering Aerial Amp After Headunit Change
25 January 2011, 05:08 PM
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Powering Aerial Amp After Headunit Change
Having had no reception after changing the Std Kenwood headunit on my Blobeye i did some hunting for a guide. All i could find was a written guide (thank you NASIOC) so i decided to take some pics as I went and post up a new guide.
So.
When an aftermarket head unit is installed you need to supply a 12V supply to pin 14 to activate the amp (or motor if a motorised aeriel is fitted). On the autoleads harness adaptor (PC2-44-4) the connector for the aerial powersupply is not connected to anything. The radio should activate the amp when you have the radio selected.
Pin 14 is (on mine anyway) in the bottom right. White wire feeding in from the amp and a dark blue wire out (with power amp printed on it).
On the head unit there should (hopefully) be a wire marked Power Amp.
As the blue wire in the Autoleads harness was connected to nothing i pulled it from the block and crimped the 2 wires together and taped them up (i'll fit a proper connector or solder them later now i know it works).
The stereo now picks up station names, RDS and TA info and locks onto stations.
If you have no Ant Power wire on your head unit there are 2 other options.
1) Amplifier Remote control - usually a blue/white wire. Not all after market headunits have this and it will (if fitted) power the aerial amp any time the headunit is (even when you have CD, DVD on).
2) If you have none of the other cables fitted the other option is to connect the amp power to Accessory power. This will provide 12V to the aerial amp when the ignition key is at ACC or ON.
So.
When an aftermarket head unit is installed you need to supply a 12V supply to pin 14 to activate the amp (or motor if a motorised aeriel is fitted). On the autoleads harness adaptor (PC2-44-4) the connector for the aerial powersupply is not connected to anything. The radio should activate the amp when you have the radio selected.
Pin 14 is (on mine anyway) in the bottom right. White wire feeding in from the amp and a dark blue wire out (with power amp printed on it).
On the head unit there should (hopefully) be a wire marked Power Amp.
As the blue wire in the Autoleads harness was connected to nothing i pulled it from the block and crimped the 2 wires together and taped them up (i'll fit a proper connector or solder them later now i know it works).
The stereo now picks up station names, RDS and TA info and locks onto stations.
If you have no Ant Power wire on your head unit there are 2 other options.
1) Amplifier Remote control - usually a blue/white wire. Not all after market headunits have this and it will (if fitted) power the aerial amp any time the headunit is (even when you have CD, DVD on).
2) If you have none of the other cables fitted the other option is to connect the amp power to Accessory power. This will provide 12V to the aerial amp when the ignition key is at ACC or ON.
14 March 2011, 09:04 PM
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Sweet, i hunted for ages for a guide and couldn't find a decent one just a few random bits and pieces...
So i thought i'd do this when i sorted mine. Glad it helped.
So i thought i'd do this when i sorted mine. Glad it helped.
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01 May 2011, 04:30 PM
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I fitted an aftermarket double-din a couple of weeks ago to my bug using the autoleads cable and the P-Ant cable was wired into the autoleads block already, no mods required
13 June 2013, 08:03 PM
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Sorry to dig this thread up but I wanted to say thanks. I had my suspicions that it must be an active aerial in the top of the rear windscreen. One of the previous owners decided to cut off the Subaru block and solder on an ISO connector. The problem with that was that they just ignored the white cable and there had no radio reception whatsoever.
Just pulled it all apart tonight, twisted the amp remote and white leads together to test and bingo, radio!
The speakers sound pants I will see if I can tell if the polarities are right via a multimeter but can't honestly remember if that gives me an accurate result for telling if the speaker wiring polarity is spot on or not.
Just pulled it all apart tonight, twisted the amp remote and white leads together to test and bingo, radio!
The speakers sound pants I will see if I can tell if the polarities are right via a multimeter but can't honestly remember if that gives me an accurate result for telling if the speaker wiring polarity is spot on or not.
26 June 2013, 09:52 PM
#12
you can't tell using a multi meter. you will get a fluctuating reading, not a constant one (multi meter measures resistance, speakers are impedance, it changes with the postion of the voice coil/cone)
use a 9v battery, connect + to + and - to - and see if the cone moves in or out, should be the same on both
use a 9v battery, connect + to + and - to - and see if the cone moves in or out, should be the same on both
07 August 2013, 09:48 PM
#13
i've just swapped the std head unit in my new blob for an alpine 117ri and bought this adaptor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2506641072...84.m1497.l2649
i checked for the white wire and it was in the connector, so i just pluged the new stereo in and the radio is spot on
i checked for the white wire and it was in the connector, so i just pluged the new stereo in and the radio is spot on
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