crammy

hi all
could anyone recommend a set of speakers (front and rear) for a 2002 sti. i have a mtx thunder 800watt amp to power two 10" subs in boot and i was planning on letting the stereo power the for corners. stereo is a kenwood ddx-5022 which is 50w per channel i believe. not got to be really loud but i would like quality and clarity. preferbly without using spacers for the doors but if i have to then thats fine. also ,do i really need to use dynamat or can i get away without.
thanks
jay

scooby-tc

iTrader: (2)

Definately use dynamat the sound is dramatically improved,without it all the window mechanisms will rattle like hell.For a really good sound in the front you will need spacers so you can fit a good quality component set in the doors.Personally id forget about putting anything in the rear mainly because you are doing this for you (as the driver) you wont be sitting in the back.I run Focal components in the front doors of my blobeye spec c all fully dynamatted and the sound is amazing

Dease

iTrader: (3)

2nd that, but to save money on Dynamat use roof flashing from Wicks as it is exactly the same thing but half the price!

Focal K2P's 16.5 are the daddy but very expensive. Try some Pyle components or higher end Infinity's if your on a budget.

My last car (JDM Honda Integra) was stuffed with Focal everything and the sound was stunning. I am picking up a set of K2P's tomorrow for my bug.

If you want the best sound you will need to Amp them though as head unit power is poo.

crammy

thanks for the replies. ill look into the focals. not to fussed about the budget as long as they are quality. i was just upset with the qoute i got. it was 550 to dynamat the front doors and stick some mtx speakers in and dynamat the parcal shelf and put some mtx 6 by 9s in.
i will also look at the roof flashing
cheers
jay

crammy

just looked at the price. forget the focals. decided there is a budget. 500 for the speakers (front and back). ill fit my self. i will do the dynomat as advised(or wicks). any more suggestions for speakers

bud1970

Right, you stated that your head unit puts out 50w per channel. Forget that!. The only true way to measure the power capabilities of speakers and amps is to use the rms figures. So i'd guess that your head unit is probably putting out somewhere between 5-8w per channel rms. Now to your speakers. I'd also recomend using a set of 17cm components, kenwood do a nice set that come complete with mids, tweeters and crossovers and these will set you back about 90- 110 pounds. can't tell you exactly how much because i'm from ireland and we use euros (mickey mouse money). as for your back speakers, DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE 6X9's IN THE BACK!!!!!!!. The reason for this is 6X9's are a bass speaker and you are already running subs. put 6X9's in and the back of the car will be bass heavy and it will sound pants!. I recomend using a nice set of 17cm 2 way coaxials for the rear. if you decide to amp your speakers make sure you use an amp that is just over half the power in watts rms that your speakers are. follow these instructions and your system should sound the dogs b****cks. there you go. sorted!

bud1970

S**t, forgot to mention before if you do install new speakers be gentle with them for a week or 2. you know when you buy a new car and the dealer tells you not to be redlining it for the first 15,000 miles?. well the same is true of speakers, cane the **** off them, and the chances are you'll blow your mids, tweeters, crossovers and if you're really unlucky your head unit!. you have been warned..........

BigRed

I don't use any rear speakers in my classic as the sub is allowed to breathe in the boot, I removed the rears to allow this. My sub is an RE SX12 powered by an RE12.1 amp (1200w RMS into 1 ohm), if I did have rear speakers they would be torn to shreds in minutes.

I have CDT 6.2cl up front, and give them 135 watts RMS per channel using a DLS CL23 amp, they sound lovely and clean even at very loud volumes.

I would not use the head unit to power your speakers as the internal amps are crap, use a good quality amp instead and set it up correctly, matching the gains on the amp with your head unit. The best way to do this is with an oscilloscope, checking for clipping of the signal, clipping kills speakers and amps, I'm lucky enough to have my own scope and have set my system accordingly, but if you don;t have a scope then you can do this by ear.