12 or 18mm MDF? Infinity 6510cs in MY03 Front door
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12 or 18mm MDF? Infinity 6510cs in MY03 Front door
Quick question:
Is it 12mm or 18mm MDF for the correct clearance spacers when fitting Infinity 6510cs in the front door of an MY03 STI?
Just trawling the FAQ’s to hopefully find the answer but some say 12mm, some say 18mm.
Many Thanks in advance for your help,
Carl.
Is it 12mm or 18mm MDF for the correct clearance spacers when fitting Infinity 6510cs in the front door of an MY03 STI?
Just trawling the FAQ’s to hopefully find the answer but some say 12mm, some say 18mm.
Many Thanks in advance for your help,
Carl.
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Thanks for the replies.
Lord B – Its down to the depth of the new speakers compared to the factory fit ones and clearance for the glass (I think!).
Neil (SivMY05Sti) – Was just reading through some of your posts. Since you’ve already done this - Any further tips?
Lord B – Its down to the depth of the new speakers compared to the factory fit ones and clearance for the glass (I think!).
Neil (SivMY05Sti) – Was just reading through some of your posts. Since you’ve already done this - Any further tips?
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Just do what I did - had my laptop on my doorstep open at the relevent FAQ's as I did it !!
Pretty easy to be honest, only ballsup I had was not insulating the speaker connections with insulation tape - they were shorting on the Dynamat
Used heavy duty velcro from B&Q to fix tweeters and Crossovers if your doing that too
Santa's got me an Alpine CDE-9850Ri too Xmas job putting that in
Pretty easy to be honest, only ballsup I had was not insulating the speaker connections with insulation tape - they were shorting on the Dynamat
Used heavy duty velcro from B&Q to fix tweeters and Crossovers if your doing that too
Santa's got me an Alpine CDE-9850Ri too Xmas job putting that in
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9850 – Nice.
Will get the MDF and Velcro from B&Q tomorrow and will hopefully attempt this on Friday, so if it all goes wrong, mine may turn into a Christmas job…. Friday, Xmas eve, Xmas day……..
Thanks for your help - hopefully it will be a smooth job now,
Carl.
Will get the MDF and Velcro from B&Q tomorrow and will hopefully attempt this on Friday, so if it all goes wrong, mine may turn into a Christmas job…. Friday, Xmas eve, Xmas day……..
Thanks for your help - hopefully it will be a smooth job now,
Carl.
Last edited by carl555; 19 December 2006 at 10:19 PM.
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Get some deadmat. Don't need brand name stuff, ebay is a good source for it. Put 2 or 3 1ft sq layers on top of each other directly behind the speaker hole. Makes a big difference. So does lining the entire outer door skin and interiorpanel, but it adds weight and makes dent fix blokes swear at you
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Thanks for the replies again lads.
NXG – Thanks. I’m not really after the ultimate result just something a bit better than factory ones, but I will see if I can get some cheap stuff in time.
Dave – The photo is a Big help. Cheers.
That’s three different places I’ve seen the crossover mounted now. Yours, on a home made bracket and Velcro’d to the inner of the door card.
Were you using 18mm MDF or was it thinner for the inside plastic rim to foul the speaker?
Also – any decent solutions to stop water getting at the speaker in the Inner of the door panel?
NXG – Thanks. I’m not really after the ultimate result just something a bit better than factory ones, but I will see if I can get some cheap stuff in time.
Dave – The photo is a Big help. Cheers.
That’s three different places I’ve seen the crossover mounted now. Yours, on a home made bracket and Velcro’d to the inner of the door card.
Were you using 18mm MDF or was it thinner for the inside plastic rim to foul the speaker?
Also – any decent solutions to stop water getting at the speaker in the Inner of the door panel?
#11
I used 12mm and the speaker did touch the door card. Hence the trimming.
After I took that pic I dynomatted around the speaker and the lower half of the door.
I also covered the inside of the door card with bubble wrap, cos they have an annoying habbit
of vibrating against the door liner/door.
I didnt bother putting anything behind/above the speaker to stop water. I took the door card off last month to do some other
works and checked the speaker, it was bone dry and had no signs of water damage after 3 years - so no need. The infinity units have plastic cones
anyway.
After I took that pic I dynomatted around the speaker and the lower half of the door.
I also covered the inside of the door card with bubble wrap, cos they have an annoying habbit
of vibrating against the door liner/door.
I didnt bother putting anything behind/above the speaker to stop water. I took the door card off last month to do some other
works and checked the speaker, it was bone dry and had no signs of water damage after 3 years - so no need. The infinity units have plastic cones
anyway.
Last edited by davedipster; 20 December 2006 at 03:11 AM.
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Just thought I would post again on here to thank those that helped me out with their replies (and thanks also to those posted as part of the FAQ – especially for the door card removal procedure).
The Infinitys are now in.
Armed with all the info off here they are a doddle to fit, including the home-made spacers.
They sound great. Deeper bass and much less distortion on the vocals. Head unit change up next so here’s hoping they will sound even better soon!
Thanks, Carl.
The Infinitys are now in.
Armed with all the info off here they are a doddle to fit, including the home-made spacers.
They sound great. Deeper bass and much less distortion on the vocals. Head unit change up next so here’s hoping they will sound even better soon!
Thanks, Carl.
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Fitted the Alpine Headunit today ( to FAQ's - Chiark, Ru and others) and the speakers come into their own, awesome !
And Ipod speed is amazing....get it done
And Ipod speed is amazing....get it done
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