Guide; Fitting Infinity 6500cs; 05 WRX
06 May 2005, 06:49 PM
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Guide; Fitting Infinity 6500cs; 05 WRX
Okay, so now the door cards are off (http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=424816) and it's time to fit the speakers.
I won't go on about how to make the necessary spacers much. I used 12mm MDF, drew around the original loudspeaker, used the 6500 grill surround to draw a circle in the centres and cut it all out with a jigsaw.
You need two spacers per door (edit - Neil W used one thickness per door and found this was enough http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=524125), and I made two of them slightly 'thicker' (i.e. added a bit on around the original speaker outline) so there was more wood to mount the speakers on. I only added a couple of mm here; the bottom of each spacer can't be much bigger than the original speaker as it will foul the bottom of the door card otherwise. These larger ones go on the outside, i.e. smaller ones mount to the metalwork of the door.
As you can see, mine weren't much to look at (3 were done by hand...) but no-one will see (unless, of course, you go and post it all on scoobynet!).
Here's the spacers fitted. I used ordinary wood screws to attach them, probably about 30mm long, as there's no trouble if they poke out behind the door inner metalwork a bit. Don't forget to drill holes for all screws, you don't want to split the MDF. I used brass screws so they wouldn't go rusty, and countersunk the holes so the screw heads were pretty much flush and wouldn't interfere with the loudspeaker metalwork. Before fitting I pre-drilled holes for the speaker fixings, and I used the longer screws supplied - these go through both MDF spacers adding to the rigidity.
For the cabling I used choc block type terminals (not ideal, I know) to join to the original feed from the amp. As has been stated elsewhere, the vertical bit of the plug (which is a 'T') is the positive. I ran that out for the cross-over (see later), put in a length for the woofer and similarly for the tweeter, using the original tweeter cabling from the woofer position upwards.
Spade terminals for the woofer were bought from Maplin, so it was easy to connect it up and screw it in tight:
Next we need to mount the tweeter. I used the original brackets (I can't fabricate any metalwork) and there's no a lot of room both around the tweeter and in front of it (tweeter here is just placed on the bracket by magnetism):
There was no room for the mountings supplied by Infinity, so I decided to use Velcro 'coins' from B&Q (not ideal, I know - I may just glue them in eventually):
Place the velcro on both the bracket and tweeter taking care that when they're fitted the tweeter terminals do not short out on the bracket:
The leads from the tweeter were choc-blocked to the original wires after cutting off the Subaru plug.
So, both drivers are fitted and all that remains is the cross-over. I decided to use velcro again (bit of a theme running here) but in this case it's not a bodge and saves having to make a bracket or just dump the unit in the bottom of the door somewhere. I got some heavy duty velcro pads from that DIY store, stuck one the the crossover rear and the other to the door card here (the white rectangle on the lower right):
Obviously you need enough 'slack' in the cables, otherwise it'll all go wrong when the door card is removed. I also made sure the slack length was cable tied at one end onto the inner door metalwork by the latch. On the subject of cables, I used the '-3dB' tweeter wiring option on the crossover as Inifnity have a reputation for sounding bright. I'm glad I did, and even so I find the treble very loud (brittle even). It may mellow with age...
First off, make sure it all works and then attach the crossover to the door card.
Re-attached the card and enjoy a much better sound than the standard rubbish speakers!
I'm using the original headunit at the moment, but even so the difference is amazing (despite some drastic use of the tone controls).
It is still possible the woofer cone is fouling the DCLGRRT, and I'll post back when I've investigated further...
ps it may be noticed that I have done nothing about water-proofing the rear of the speaker. I tried using plastic behind it (Halfrauds bag...) but it made a nasty noise in use (what an idiot). I may sort something out in future (any ideas?). For comedy value, here's the first (aborted) attempt...
I won't go on about how to make the necessary spacers much. I used 12mm MDF, drew around the original loudspeaker, used the 6500 grill surround to draw a circle in the centres and cut it all out with a jigsaw.
You need two spacers per door (edit - Neil W used one thickness per door and found this was enough http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=524125), and I made two of them slightly 'thicker' (i.e. added a bit on around the original speaker outline) so there was more wood to mount the speakers on. I only added a couple of mm here; the bottom of each spacer can't be much bigger than the original speaker as it will foul the bottom of the door card otherwise. These larger ones go on the outside, i.e. smaller ones mount to the metalwork of the door.
As you can see, mine weren't much to look at (3 were done by hand...) but no-one will see (unless, of course, you go and post it all on scoobynet!).
Here's the spacers fitted. I used ordinary wood screws to attach them, probably about 30mm long, as there's no trouble if they poke out behind the door inner metalwork a bit. Don't forget to drill holes for all screws, you don't want to split the MDF. I used brass screws so they wouldn't go rusty, and countersunk the holes so the screw heads were pretty much flush and wouldn't interfere with the loudspeaker metalwork. Before fitting I pre-drilled holes for the speaker fixings, and I used the longer screws supplied - these go through both MDF spacers adding to the rigidity.
For the cabling I used choc block type terminals (not ideal, I know) to join to the original feed from the amp. As has been stated elsewhere, the vertical bit of the plug (which is a 'T') is the positive. I ran that out for the cross-over (see later), put in a length for the woofer and similarly for the tweeter, using the original tweeter cabling from the woofer position upwards.
Spade terminals for the woofer were bought from Maplin, so it was easy to connect it up and screw it in tight:
Next we need to mount the tweeter. I used the original brackets (I can't fabricate any metalwork) and there's no a lot of room both around the tweeter and in front of it (tweeter here is just placed on the bracket by magnetism):
There was no room for the mountings supplied by Infinity, so I decided to use Velcro 'coins' from B&Q (not ideal, I know - I may just glue them in eventually):
Place the velcro on both the bracket and tweeter taking care that when they're fitted the tweeter terminals do not short out on the bracket:
The leads from the tweeter were choc-blocked to the original wires after cutting off the Subaru plug.
So, both drivers are fitted and all that remains is the cross-over. I decided to use velcro again (bit of a theme running here) but in this case it's not a bodge and saves having to make a bracket or just dump the unit in the bottom of the door somewhere. I got some heavy duty velcro pads from that DIY store, stuck one the the crossover rear and the other to the door card here (the white rectangle on the lower right):
Obviously you need enough 'slack' in the cables, otherwise it'll all go wrong when the door card is removed. I also made sure the slack length was cable tied at one end onto the inner door metalwork by the latch. On the subject of cables, I used the '-3dB' tweeter wiring option on the crossover as Inifnity have a reputation for sounding bright. I'm glad I did, and even so I find the treble very loud (brittle even). It may mellow with age...
First off, make sure it all works and then attach the crossover to the door card.
Re-attached the card and enjoy a much better sound than the standard rubbish speakers!
I'm using the original headunit at the moment, but even so the difference is amazing (despite some drastic use of the tone controls).
It is still possible the woofer cone is fouling the DCLGRRT, and I'll post back when I've investigated further...
ps it may be noticed that I have done nothing about water-proofing the rear of the speaker. I tried using plastic behind it (Halfrauds bag...) but it made a nasty noise in use (what an idiot). I may sort something out in future (any ideas?). For comedy value, here's the first (aborted) attempt...
Last edited by ru'; 20 June 2006 at 10:07 PM.
06 May 2005, 08:18 PM
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Hi Ru.
There's a few things I'd say...
1. Mount your tweeter more securely as the velcro pads will allow it to vibrate against the bracket. You could use a strong double sided tape or epoxy glue on the tweeter 'cup' that is supplied with the speakers.
2. While the door cards are off it is well worth Dynamat'ing the inside of the outer door skin and the area around the speaker.
3. Halfords bag??? That will flap around and will probably be horribly audible. Try to find some thicker plastic - I used a few layers of that silver gaffer tape
Hope this helps
Gary.
There's a few things I'd say...
1. Mount your tweeter more securely as the velcro pads will allow it to vibrate against the bracket. You could use a strong double sided tape or epoxy glue on the tweeter 'cup' that is supplied with the speakers.
2. While the door cards are off it is well worth Dynamat'ing the inside of the outer door skin and the area around the speaker.
3. Halfords bag??? That will flap around and will probably be horribly audible. Try to find some thicker plastic - I used a few layers of that silver gaffer tape
Hope this helps
Gary.
06 May 2005, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryCat
1. Mount your tweeter more securely as the velcro pads will allow it to vibrate against the bracket. You could use a strong double sided tape or epoxy glue on the tweeter 'cup' that is supplied with the speakers..
Originally Posted by GaryCat
2. While the door cards are off it is well worth Dynamat'ing the inside of the outer door skin and the area around the speaker..
Originally Posted by GaryCat
3. Halfords bag??? That will flap around and will probably be horribly audible. Try to find some thicker plastic - I used a few layers of that silver gaffer tape.
Thanks for the tips Gary.
08 May 2005, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryCat
While the door cards are off it is well worth Dynamat'ing the inside of the outer door skin and the area around the speaker.
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08 May 2005, 11:31 PM
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