ru'

Hiya; day 1 complete (well, afternoon/evening one anyway) (MY05 WRX).

Few things;

1) Autoleads spacer Halfrauds ordered does not fit; speakers need a 142mm cut-out, spacer provided 130mm.

2) 6500's are 62mm deep. This means that one thickness of 12mm MDF is not enough to prevent window fouling, nor is 18mm MDF. Two 12mm spacers per speaker are required.

3) If you don't have a power jigsaw, try and beg borrow or steal one. Making spacers with stone age hand tools is not fun.

4) When making spacers, ensure that the bit of wood you're working with hasn't got cut marks on from the previous spacer. Make sure you check both sides. Especially if you are working with hand tools. Finishing a spacer only to find it has deep cut outs on the other side is not fun (grrrrrr!).

At this stage it seems the extra thickness required does not cause problems with the door card.

Today I'm continueing, and I hope to post some pictures up when it's done (mainly so people can laugh at my cack-handidness). I know there are already such photos, but I reckon some more details could be shown regarding things like removing the door card from an 05, and mounting the tweeter.

The main thing is I still have all my fingers!

Stay tuned for episode two...

GaryCat

With that depth you need to make sure that the front of the speaker won't foul the door card. That's the reason I went for 6000cs.

davedipster

I went for 6000cs as well, with 12mm MDF.
Fits like a glove.

ru'

I would've swapped the 6500s for 6000s if Halfrauds had any in stock, but they didn't.

Anyway, 6500s are duly fitted and I'm still playing around with the generous EQ facilities on the standard headunit trying to get a sound I'm happy with.

Whoever said these were 'bright' wasn't joking. I'm running about +8 on the bass and -2 on the treble; that can't be right? (This is using the -3dB output on the Infinity crossover too).

It may well be that there is some interference between the door card loudspeaker grill rubber ring thingy (sorry if I'm getting to technical here, lol). When I can be bothered I'll take one of the cards off and stick some chalk around said ring to see if it does touch the loudspeaker cone itself.

I suspect, though, that the standard head unit hasn't really got the ***** to drive these properly.

Having said that, it's a remarkable improvement over the original speakers.

When I get time I'll post my photos up showing step by step fitting action and revealing my superb method for mounting the crossover (and not so superb method of mounting the tweeters).

GaryCat

Another method is to soften up some blu-tack and put a few blobs around the speaker, then you can refit the door card and see how far the blu-tack gets squashed.

ru'

Good idea, although it'd have to be pretty soft as both the speaker cone and rubber surround thing can move. If there is interference, I'd want to leave as much of the rubber there as I could get away with, so the blu tak idea lets me know how much to remove.

Blu tak and chalk - the future of auto audio engineering!

KJD Mk1

iTrader: (3)

Reading this thread with interest as i have a set of the same speakers to fit, thought a 12mm mdf spacer was order of the day but it looks as if a deeper spacer is needed.

please keep us posted
Ta.

ru'

Testing, testing...

KJD Mk1

iTrader: (3)

Not working for me

ru'

Should be fine now.

My top tip - buy a power jigsaw... £15 from B&Q (oops; is that advertising ) and worth every penny!

KJD Mk1

iTrader: (3)

In the pic is that a 24mm mdf spacer and does the speaker cone /rubber foul the door card?

ru'

That's the 2 x 12mm MDF spacer. It doesn't foul the door card (i.e. you can still move the card inwards without any hassle when it's fitted).
What I still need to find out, however, is whether it fouls the DCLGRRT(TM) (door card loudspeaker grill rubber ring thingy) - behind the door card loudspeaker grill there's a rubber strip which goes around the grill. This is pretty flexible, and I guess is there to provide some sort of seal to the door mounted woofer. As it's flexible it's hard to feel whether it's fouling the new driver or not, and if so, where.

As I can't get hold of an endoscope to have a look, I'll have to resort to some form of high tech chalk and blu-tack method, as described above.

If there is any sort of fouling going on, the rubber strip can be easily cut back where appropriate so it's not really an issue, but I don't want to remove any of it which doesn't interfere with the driver.

KJD Mk1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for that, i've mine to do soon when i get a spair full day, looks as if its a right load of hassel.
I found that when i changed my head unit over to a sony , fitted a sub and an amp the o/e speakers sounded a lot better so ive not been in a rush but i have all the bits now so its just finding the time.

C2forWRX

where have you mounted that massive crossover?

ru'

Ah, you need to look at my rambling post about fitting the 'speakers;


http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=425035

Best bit of the install was the x-over mounting!

andy_scouser

Just followed all of this, fantastic....

I have just mounted the mids of my 6500 infinity's using a front speaker mounting plate from a vauxhall corsa. They took a little filing to get the screws to fit the original mounts but they are now on, and fully dynamat'd up.

Im still not convinced on the tweater mounting, so im going to try and use no more nails or similar...

Incidentally, i bought the cs6500's from halfords for £60. Mounting plate £15 and dynamat I had already. Just need some female connectors for the feed for the crossover. (which will be velcro'd to the door panel). I've used some hifi speaker cable for all but the existing cable, in readiness for amping up, if i go that far. Head unit is a superb Alpine mp3 flip front unit. 4x60w