FuZzBoM

Hi all,

Had the car a few months and in truth I am not happy with how the fluids look. Also I cannot find any evidence they have been changed in recent times (apart from engine oil as this was done a week before the purchase)

Car is a 56 plate WRX wagon. Done 59k

1: Oil.. when i do get round to doing oil what is lubrication of choice? I was going to go with castrol edge 5w30 as this is recommended on castrol website. Anything else worth considering?

2: coolant.. this is the worst looking fluid in my opinion. overflow bottle and rad cap look a bit murky and an off pink almost orange colour. I have read magical tales of subaru coolant being a special blend!? any advise on this and volume needed would be appreciated. also any tips on if the system needs to be bled etc.

3: Brake/clutch fluid.. I have been considering fitting braided lines to brakes and clutch so good excuse to change the fluid while I am there. I have noticed the cap has "dot 3" on it but read enough to know a good dot 4 should be ok. unless any reason not to I will just go with a known brand quality dot 4 like say comma synthetic dot4?

4: gearbox/diff.. Now on this can anyone tell me how often it should be changed? reason I ask is that 1st thing in the morning it can be a pain to get into reverse. If I go 1st then reverse it helps a lot. but sometimes I will need to raise the clutch slightly while in 1st to then allow it to go into reverse. clutch shows no sign of slipping or making noise etc. but a tad annoying. Also a couple of times it has been hesitant to go into 3rd gear. only once or twice mind. I have a friend who has had more than a few impreza's (now has an RB320) and just told me to man up lol. I was just wondering if a gearbox fluid change would help this?
And if anyone can offer advise on if it is easy enough to do at home or does it have a filter would be of great help.


I know I probably sound like a worried parent reading all that back but I am often told i have far too much "Mechanical sympathy" by people.
I can't help it, I just like things to be right. is that such a crime?


Many thanks in advance,
Fuzz

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

I would probably use a 5w-40 in the engine

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XF Longlife, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

The best fluids for the brakes and clutch are the Castrol SRF, Motul RBF660 and Gulf RF1000. The Motul RBF600, Gulf RF800, Millers 300 Plus and Fuchs Pro Race are close to those, but don't have quite as high boiling points. In reality though, they are all overkill for road use if you have standard brakes. The next step down (in performance terms), but still an upgrade over standard are the Gulf Racing 5.1, Motul DOT 5.1 and Castrol React Performance. Any of the other DOT4 fluids we have are fine to use as a standard choice.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-450-brak...tch-fluid.aspx

The best coolants are the Motul Inugel Optimal or Fuchs Pro Cool, but the Fuchs ESK, Millers Alpine, Castrol Radicool and Gulf are all fine as cheaper alternatives.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-458-coolant-antifreeze.aspx

You need a 75w-90 for the gearbox and diff.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-...ion-fluid.aspx

If you want to go for the best, the Millers CRX 75w-90 NT, Gulf Competition, Motul Gear 300, Red Line 75w-90NS and Millers TRX are ideal for the gearbox. The Castrol Universal, Motul Motylgear and Fuchs Gear Syn are all decent alternatives. The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Redline 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Amsoil FGR are also good choices. As you are suffering with cold shifts, I'd go for the Motul Gear 300 as it's thin when cold for a 75w-90.

Cheers

Tim

FuZzBoM

Tim,

Many thanks for that.. very in depth and good product knowledge.

I will probably do bits in stages with the priority being the coolant.
after that gear/diff oil will be next. the gearbox itself seems to be ok in that it does not whine or crunch into gears etc. It will however refuse to go into reverse (when cold) unless given a little jiggle in 1st. Is this a sign of a possible gearbox issue or just old fluid?

Lastly. Brakes are the 4 pot Subaru jobbies with EBC yellow pads and EBC Ultimax discs. to complete the upgrade I think braided lines and decent fluid is a must.

Thanks again,
Fuzz

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

The gear shift problem could be due to worn out oil or the wrong oil being used for a previous change. The only real way of checking that is to change the oil and see how it is after the change. I would probably go for the Gear 300 to give the oil the best chance of helping the cold shift.

As the brakes aren't standard, I'd go for one of the ones I listed as an upgrade over the standard fluid.

Cheers

Tim

Oranges

Hi Tim,

Noticed you don't seem to recommend Shell oils at all, is there a reason?

Just curious, not being argumentative.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

I do recommend Shell when they are suitable (like for the car above, I mentioned the Shell Helix 5w-40 engine oil), but their 75-90 gear oil is a bit of a pain as it only comes in 20L drums, so far too much for most people. I did forget their brake fluids to be honest, but this one would be fine.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69327-sh...-donax-ub.aspx

Cheers

Tim

Oranges

Ah yes sorry I'd missed that! It's a relief as that's what I've always used on mine, and also explains why I can't find any shell diff/gear oil.

Cheers Tim, much appreciated.

FuZzBoM

Just curious as to why you recommend 5W40 over 5W30? All the websites I have been on and entered my reg (including Castrol's and ECP website) recommend 5w30.

Engine has light mods, Pro-R air filter, intercooler pipes, scorpion tailpipe, center pipe decat and a remap btw.

thanks

ScottyPPP

I'm running Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w40 engine oil, ATE Superblue brake fluid, Comma Xstream G30 Coolant and RED LINE LightWeight ShockProof Gear Oil 75W-90 in the gearbox (soon to be diff also when the drain plug lets me in).

I think the gearbox oil is supposed to be done every 30k.

FuZzBoM

Just been to ECP to pick up a wheel bearing for my mums car. while I was there I asked what coolant they have listed as it does not say on their website.
They advised "standard red will be fine" love them guys lol.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

A 5w-30 is the standard grade for when the car left the factory, but over time there will have been a little wear, plus some light mods and because a lot of Impreza owners like to put their foot down at least from time to time, means that a slightly thicker oil than the original spec is a sensible choice.

Cheers

Tim

FuZzBoM

That is a fair point. I am sure you are fully aware the latter number denotes that the oil viscosity when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Therefore would be working the engine slightly harder to pump the oil around?
Ok I get that my engine would have worn in a fair amount since it was built but it is always a good subject for debate
As both oils are rated at 5w it would be safe to use as a winter oil as that viscosity is unchanged.

in the 4 months I have owned it the engine has used about 500ml of top up oil so I will probably go with 5w40 when i come to doing it..

thanks again..

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

Yes, the oil will be slightly thicker at operating temperature, but the pump will be working harder when it's cold. Also, there isn't a massive difference between 5w-30 and 5w-40.

Cheers

Tim

FuZzBoM

Finally got round to ordering some bits from you guys.. I was all set to do some work over the weekend.. BUT all to be screwed over by FED-EX. They are totally useless expletives.
I left clear instructions to leave parcel with neighbour as he is retired an takes all my parcels in while I am at work like most of the UK!!
I did this Knowing full well it is a 50 mile round trip if I want to collect from their depot. Just called and was told driver was not yet back and no idea when he would be so no point me even driving up there. I asked why my parcel was not left with neighbour like instructed and he said "oh number 14?" I said "yes" He then said "I don't know"
So I then ask if it can be delivered tomorrow. He said no.. But I can collect tomorrow?!
Shame I have plans in the morning huh....

so conversation ended with him asking when they retry on Tuesday to deliver if I am not in where would I like it left!! YES REALLY!!
NUMBER 14!!!! as before.....

Honestly I do despair...
Anyway rant over (don't use Fed-Ex) and have a nice weekend.

Fuzz

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

Sorry for the delay, only just saw this.

Fed Ex are normally brilliant, we have far less problems with them than other couriers. Can I have the order number so I can look into this?

Cheers

Tim

FuZzBoM

Hi Tim, Honestly do not worry about it. Parcel was received today.
Order number shows as 292357 and I can even see my order notes to leave at the now famous no. 14 on the included paperwork.

It is not the 1st time FedEx have been totally useless for me so it angered me slightly. The last time I had a parcel sent to me from USA. Missed it as before and when called was told I HAD to collect as was from USA?! No reason given at that point.. So drove up there to be told driver was not back and I had to wait.. when driver did arrive at (about 2 hours later) Gave me parcel signed all ok..
A week later I receive a letter demanding I pay £16 import tax or they will take me to court due to me refusing to pay it at the depot.. This was the 1st I had heard of it!! Maybe it is just my 'local' (50 miles round trip) depot that is run by a bunch of buffoons?

Either way maybe make a note on your system if sending to Milton Keynes use someone other than FedEx as depot is in Wellingborough.

Thanks,
Fuzz

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

We do get that from time to time, each courier has it's rubbish depots, but I'm thinking you may be more unlucky than that and have a rubbish driver. We send a lot of stuff to MK postcodes and don't really have any problems, so I think it might be that you have a driver that isn't really very good at his job. Next time you order, let me know and we'll swap it over to UK Mail, just remind me why.

Cheers

Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

As regards coolant:

Drain by removing the little bung at the bottom inner offside of the rad, or if there isn't one, remove the bottom hose.

It's a good idea to connect a garden hose here and back flush. Or better still, remove the rad, hold hand over bottom hose outlet, fill with water, agitate and then tip out of bottom.

Once that's done, refill as follows:

50/50 mix of decent coolant and tapwater, distilled water if you want. Use an anti-freeze for an alloy engine and with corrosion inhibitors, mine comes from a local motor-factors and costs £8.49 per 2.5 litres. The engine empty will take around 7 litres, so not cheap.

Please don't get caught up in what colour it is....it's just a dye and different manufacturers use different colours. So long as it's a full refill and an a/f suitable for an alloy engine, it'll be fine, but try NOT to mix types in the same refill.

Once you have your mix, remove the cap from the metal header tank on top of the engine, set heater in car to full hot, then remove the rear-most pipe from the header tank, shove a funnel down it and S L O W L Y pour in the coolant....mine took 20 minutes!!! DO NOT allow it to gurgle or gulp.

Once you see coolant in the header tank, and it's nearing the top, stop and fill from there.

Now switch on the engine and leave to get hot, until fans kick in, watching the header tank and mopping, or topping up as necessary.

When the fans kick in, switch off, replace header tank cap, drive round the block.
Leave to cool and check level in header tank again.

Job's a good 'un!


Doing it this way will avoid airlocks, which can kill your cylinder head gaskets by allowing localised over-heating.

Be warned, despite what you might read otherwise, there is no known way to be sure and bleed a Subaru engine.

FuZzBoM

Awesome.. exactly what I needed. I have been putting it off as was unsure of how to fill correctly.
I have been thinking about doing it for some time as I also get a gurgle noise inside the car when I start it. I doubt that is normal..

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Nope.......could be indicative of a low level, or an airlock...not good.

FuZzBoM

It has done that since I have had it. water level looks to be correct on the bottle attached to the side of the rad. come to think about it, the car does warm up very quickly.. Does not have any signs of overheating though. Will get to it this weekend.

thanks again..

FuZzBoM

Coolant finally changed.. Glad I did, the stuff in there was a complete state. Also flushed out the whole system with the garden hose while I was there. the header bottle attached to the side of the rad came off and that had a very thorough clear out as it had what looked like sand in it!!

So far have not heard any gurgle noise when starting the car so I assume that is a good sign.
thanks alcazar very much appreciated.