viper-d

Hi all,

Iv got a 1996 uk spec 2000 turbo, with a recon engine and box, i was wondering if its worth upping the boost from the standard 0.8 bar setting as the engine is new and strong. whats the most i can take it up to without having to upgrade anything? or is it not worth it?

Your honest opinions much appreciated

Thanks

Guest

iTrader: (2)

Definitely worth doing, but you can't just up the boost on its own, you need to make sure the fuelling is adjusted as well and there's no det or running rich/lean. Beyond the scope of a home garage mechanic unfortunately, it means you'll have to see about getting the car remapped so it's a good time to think about any other mods you want to do at the same time to get a good increase in power.

Probably the best and cheapest option for your car would be to contact one of the mappers on here and ask about getting an ESL board fitted to your ECU. http://www.enduringsolutions.com/

viper-d

AH very interesting,

i didn't realize how clever the standard ecu was.

I might have a look into getting a fast road remap. but idealy want the keep the car in as standard for as possible, iv got a 700hp supra drag car so iv decided to restrain myself and just run a reliable smart fun scooby on the road.

tubbytommy

iTrader: (20)

Hold on.
you have a 700 bhp drag supra and thought you could get more bhp by just upping the boost???

viper-d

correct, on the standard set up supra, there's a basic performance upgrade where you can up the boost to 1.2 bar but fitting a FCD, de cats and a restrict ring in the exhaust, i was wondering if there was something similar with the scooby. if not ill probably leave it as it is..

Guest

iTrader: (2)

That's a fair assumption, but by all accounts the standard Impreza ECU is pretty crap and can't cope with many modifications from standard, most of them also aren't remappable hence the huge market for daughter boards and standalone ECUs such as the Apexi. The one thing stopping me modding my classic is that to fit anything remotely tasty performance wise, I also need to find over £500 to get it mapped at the same time, so even a £75 turbo becomes an expensive mod!

viper-d

AH i see, you know what you've answered my question, im going to keep it nice and standard, between my 2 cars i have one for corners and one for straght line speed.

I never thought id keep the scooby but iv fallen in love with it since driving san berdino pass and the black Forrest. im going to restore it to a nice tidy finish with a brand new engine and box and run it as it was intended from the factory.
From what iv read on here, i will not be doing the gearbox myself but i will do the engine change.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

That's very wise fella keeping it factory, the gear box is easy to pull out fella, Draper tranny jack and a nice high lift trolley jack/axel stands to do it from underneath is all you need or pull it with the motor if you have a good hoist. Welcome to the forum by the way.

viper-d

Thanks for the advice, thanks for the warm welcome.

Pulling it out with the engine could be ok as i do have a hoist.

i was concernd of the weight of it all.

is it alot easier to remove the engine without removing the trans?

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

1.5 ton hoist pulled mine complete ok. I did remove the rad, condenser and slam panel to make life easier.

Engine does pull out easier without the trans and is easy to do just label everything well
Undo the pipe work, loom connectors, fuel lines, undo power steering lines, disconnect the downpipe, remove battery, drain coolant and remove the rad, unbolt the aircon pump leave hoses connected to it and place where battery was if your keeping it, Remove airbox pipework, drain oil(not needed to do at this point), locate the clutch fork pin under the Hex blank near the starter motor, wind in a suitable bolt and pull the fork pin out, undo the bell housing nut's/bolts, support the gearbox with a jack, finally undo the 2 engine mount nuts. Connect hoist take the weight, jack up the gearbox about an inch usually this will split the bell housing at this point if done right, lift engine just clear so the mount studs clear the cross member(If you've left the condenser in place cover it with some wood incase the engine swings forwards), Clear the input shaft and lift out. Doesn't take to long if you crack on.

viper-d

sweet, i shall give it a go when the time comes, ill get the box, diff and clutch change at a garage and get the garage to change the bolts o nthe downpip at the turbo end as they are terrible corroded.
then once the engine is out i shall swap everything over on the the new engine, with new timing belt, and any new bits it requires as they are removed, if i can find a new TD05 turbo ill change that too but so far i can only find new ones on ebay that someone didnt recomend.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Good luck with it buddy, downpipe stud nuts(giggles) dremel was my friend, Beware of the TD05 copies on ebay a few on here warn against them. I just run the standard TD04 on my classic which are cheap to replace second hand.

viper-d

I think i already have a TD05 on mine, apparently they are good turbos so ill check it out when i take it off and if there play is ok and the fins are good ill just keep using it until it goes pop