I'm coming to the end of a budget forged build on a classic Subaru,
I picked up a block with forged pistons (mahle) and rods (eagle) that had suffered a big end failure, the rods and pistons where fine so I have reused these with another crank and block I had. I cleaned/honed the bores with honing tool and re gapped rings(getting advise from few engine builders) and everything is pretty much ready to go except not sure what procedure/oil to use to run in engine as not all new??

I used new big ends/mains (acl) but old piston rings, guessing mineral oil to start but do I need to run actuator pressure or ??

Any help / advise is much appreciated.

 

when i ran in my new fully forged engine i used mineral oil, after 1500 miles it was changed to syntheic, ive only done 2k now but was advised this is the right way to do it, was also told to keep it on actuator pressure unless you have a basic running in map, bob rawles advice was keep it off boost without it and it will be fine

 

This is ideal for running in with

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mi...ng-in-oil.aspx

Cheers

Tim

 

Cheers for help with oil choice, what are people's views on mileage of oil changes and driving style??
That millers oil says ok for 500 miles and ok for bursts of power etc so is this the way to go? Or run in easy for 200 miles then up boost n revs a little etc
Seems to be various opinions but wondered what's best for my build
Cheers
Pete

 

Which ever you go for make sure you pull the crank sensor off before your first fire up and turn the engine over for a minute or so to build up the oil pressure. Then connect the crank sensor and fire it up and I hope you'll have a great big smile on your face like I did after the build.

 

you really need a mix of driving, Don't drive it too easy its not good for the motor.

 

Cheers for advise and support guys.
Pete

 

Can't offer any first hand experience but I do know that most builders seem to have their preferred methods of running in a new motor, I thought doing 500 miles for the first 2-3 oil changes was the norm?

I've also heard of a bloke that builds skyline engines and red lines them up the strip to run his engines in lol so who knows!

Hope all goes well though fella.

Mick

 

You need to use boost and drive it hard to seat the rings properly. They need to seal properly. If you drive it gently for too long then the crosshatching will wear off before the rings have seated properly then when you boost it it's too late. They've seated wrong. Obviously take precautions like warming up the engine fully and when I say boost hard do it in the higher gears. take 1st and 2nd gears easy.

What I do after building an engine is take the oil pressure relief valve off and fill the oil pump up through there and refit valve. Fill oil filter up wait 10 minutes and refill again keep doing that until you can't get any more oil in then fit it. Take spark plugs out disconnect crank sensor. Loosen turbo oil pressure feed pipe and crank engine until oil spurts out. Refit everything and start the engine.

 

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