Hi all. Im making an adapter for a pressure test to find air leaks. Ive seen a few threads on this but still need a bit of info... on 95 wrx ej20 engine.. im going to put my adapter after the maf and pressurize. That ok yeh? But what pipes if any do i cap off? And will this find leaks through entire system? Through engine and front mount intercooler?

 

Anyone? Also what is the max safe psi i can go to? Will hopefully post pics when i do it

 

It won't work the end of the system is the throttle body which then goes to the inlet manifold and through the heads where there will be valves open etc. What would work better is if you use smoke through the air intake to check for leaks. Or the old fashioned way just take them off and check them or spray around suspect areas.

What's the problem anyway?

 

Oh right. How do other guys do it then as theres a few threads about this but mainly 2.5s n others. I'll find a link soon n post it.

The prob is running rich and high idle. Been trying to tackle this for a little while (and money is a little short right now so slowing things down). I have an mot very soon too!

I changed the lambda (which was faulty anyway) for a brand new one. No change.
The tps functions well, volts are right.
Throttle body cleaned and works good.
Iacv cleaned and volts i think are ok?! Just need someone to tell me the 100% right volts info if anyone knows?
maf cleanef and volts are right.

Imy idle was 1700 rpm but before removing the iacv etc i turned the tps and iacv slightly and got it down to 1500rpm. It would go more but it became very lumpy n easily stalled.
After cleaning the maf, tb and iacv the idle went up to over 2000rpm. I had to turn the iacv all the way antilclockwise (shut) to lower the revs. Now its at 1400rpm n steady. Makes me think that i have an air leak as it got higher after things came off.

Any other ideas?

Ive done the propane test and nothing happened. Now i was going to try the pressure trick ive read a out.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...+gasket&page=5


Hope this link works. Its on page 5 but go to page 1

 

I would check the pipework between air mass meter and the turbo intake. The elbow on the turbo often splits with old age.

What bov you using and does the engine make boost ok?

 

Ill have a real good look. I did the propane test but nothing happened. Its a hks dump valve i think. N car makes boost ok. Goes to 15psi. Stock turbo i believe!

 

Anyone else say this test cant be done? Or is anyone know how its done? Really tempted to try it as i think i have a vac leak. Before i spend more money on other parts i just want to check for leaks cheaply. As ive said ive done the propane test and nothing happened, i tested with spray too n still nothing. The only threads i can find are on slightly different engines.

 

Is there no one thats done this test? or anyone with advice. Could any of my prob be linked to my boost gauge reading -3hg when engine is off?

 

just a thought! could a faulty pcv cause high idling