RichiW

At the minute i`m running a Dawes device that i think is really good.The spool up time seems fast, and it holds the boost really well, with very little fluctuation no matter what.

A.T.M i`m running the 97 ron @ 1.4bar map.

Now i rang P.E. to enquire about having the ECU programmed to 98ron @ 1.5 bar, which they said no problem to, BUT that they HATE (or at least the guy i spoke to did) the Dawes Device, and that he much prefers the Blitz range of boost controllers.

So what is the problem with the Dawes (apart from been cheap) and how much better off would i be with the Blitz controller (which they sell b.t.w. ) I`m not bothered about fancy settings + features for the minute, as i have two boost modes anyway using the Dawes + Dawes solenoid.( 0.7bar and 1.4bar respectively )

Rich.

Katana

Its cheap and anyone can install it. If everyone bought a Dawes, who else would buy the expensive electronic boos controllers?

Jamie Whitfield

Exactly!

Katana I am seriously thinking about putting you on our payroll!

Performance per pound there is no competition!

Boost controllers are mapable and offer more settings and variables, but both can work well together.

Jamie

www.j-w-racing.com
www.performanceexhausts.net

Katana

Hehe, I am a good advertiser ain't I? Why I took the engineering path instead of show biz is still a mystery to me. But yeah, I prefer the Dawes to electronic boost controllers any day. Simple in design, installation and operation so not many things can go wrong.

RichiW

Thx Katana and Jamie

Any more thoughts on this matter anyone??


Rich

babber

I think that PE shouldn't put other product down like the Dawes, in favour of a over priced electronic boost controller that does near enough the same thing. I'm well happy with my Dawes, it's the best thing I've ever bought..... Cost £30 ish pounds and now I can keep up with a PPP RB5 WR (hmmm £30 or £1700 for a PPP, let me think about that shall I) I can now spin the wheel in third in the wet Scoobysports DP and Backbox, ITG included.

It's horses for courses, a Dawes will give you better performance than standard. If you were going to buy an Electronic Boost, I would save the money and have a remap (Eurotek) or a Link

Cheers Phill C

mega_stream

How come you wheelspin in 3rd in the wet?

Mine don't even wheelspin in 2nd in the wet
Come to think of it, I think it just takes off in 1st without spinning aswell

What tires you running, slicks?

babber

I'm running Bridgestone SO3s, not slicks lol

Got my Dawes a fraction below fuel cut (1.2 bar on my crappy boost gauge) I don't get a wheel spin all the time, just occasionally. Spinning in first and second is easy, accelerating out of corners, and I normally notice the front right spinning first

I have a MY99 801 ECU
ITG
Scoobysports BB and Decat DP
Magnex decat centre section
Dawes

Cheers Phill C

john banks

Babber YHM

babber

John,

So do you!!!

Cheers Phill C

Plums

I've thought about the dawes option.....

seems very tempting in bangs for buck olympics.....

But I vaguely remember a thread reporting possible overheating (melting) of the cat in the downpipe due to the dawes and leading to possible selfdestruct of the turbo?

Can anyone verify this?


Plums.

babber

I've not heard of this, but what is a cat on the DP anyway ?? I thought that most cars had that removed when a full Scoobysports system was fitted

Seriously, my Dawes has been fitted for a number of months now, and haven't stopped smiling yet

Cheers Phill C

LG John

Babber you have your car modified and set up almost exactly how I'd look to have mines - if I ever get one - set up.

Do you have any stats for your car that can help me gauge the improvements made, i.e:

RR results
1/4 mile times
0-60 and 0-100 times
Ever raced a standard scooby and if so what was the difference, etc.

Chris L

I've been thinking about a Dawes device for a while as well (especially after a Scooby dealer (who shall remain nameless ) reckoned that it did pretty much the same thing as a PPP for the new MY01 WRX!

What's the recommendation for gauges? I assuming that a boost gauge is essential and possibly a fuel / air ratio monitor. Anything else?

Chris

Jamie Whitfield

We suggest that a boost gauge is the minimum required, we recommend the Blitz ID as it is good value with excellent accuracy.

We also sell the Dawes AFR meter which should be in stock toward the beginning of June due to a back order spanning from February!

If you need any help, please let me know/

Jamie

www.j-w-racing.com
www.performanceexhausts.net

john banks

For Babber's car or a decat PPP they should be about the same-

0-60 5.0

0-100 perhaps just under 14 with a terminal just under 100 on the 1/4

babber

I wouldn't run my car without the AFM to be honest, it's better to be safe than sorry

As John has said mine is giving the same results as a PPP car, and I'm loving it

For those of you that are thinking about buying a Dawes, do yourselves a favour and get one. I promise you won't regret it

Oh and you should have a Boost gauge so you can note fuel cut (the first time you find it) and avoid it

Cheers Phill C

Katana

Um, whats a fuel cut?

babber

Fuel cuts is when the ECU has had enough, cause it thinks that something is working in-correctly (is it the boost solenoid) and cuts fuel to the injectors. This will feel like the ignition or something has been switched off. I think this will be around 19 PSi on a standard car (someone will correct me)

Some people say it like being thrown through the windscreen, but it isn't that bad, It's just best to stay away from fuel cut when over taking, or going around a corner at speed. Make sure you set the Dawes up on a straight bit of road. I used the motorway, in fourth and fifth

Cheers Phill C

john banks

I think Katana was having a laff

MY99/00 fuel cut is 17.6 PSI. PPP/STi 5/6/P1 is 19.6 PSI

babber

LOL, no need for that (taking the ****)

John,

Thought you'd reply to that mate

Cheers Phill C

john banks

But you are the king of taking the pi$$ m8

Katana

Hehe you guys just crack me up all the time. If I were you, I'd be worried if I didn't know what a fuel cut is considering I do my own work on my car.

Managed to get rid of it by cutting the yellow/black wire on the MAP sensor itself today. She seems to be working just fine. Nothing has blown up yet (touch wood).

Hope to test it out fully next Sunday.

Stealth

iTrader: (4)

Mate, the pro's don't like the Dawes because it is a bit unsafe, not to say that this will do mass ammounts of damage to every car it is put on, but it does lack all saftey features that come on the more expensive electronic controllers!!!!!

Personally I would spend a few extra hundred Bar for something that is going to do the saem job (if not better) with all the saftey jiggery ma pockery

Chris L

Thanks Jamie for the reply.


Chris

Jamie Whitfield

No problem Chris - YHM!

Jamie

www.j-w-racing.com
www.performanceexhausts.net

manckster

so what's the difference between the standard kit and the deluxe kit? (apart from £15!)

Jamie Whitfield

Basically more hose and fittings, the money is best to go on the Race Version which has lighter internals and unbelievably quick turbo spool up time.

Jamie

www.j-w-racing.com
www.performanceexhausts.net

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

As long as you set the Dawes to 16.5 tops and monitor AFR with an 800/1/2 ECU then all should be OK.

I've seen the AFR in action and it did what everyone said it would do - run very very richly. No problem there!

I've known cars to wheels spin in 1st and 2nd in the dry with Dawes and a decat.

But, when I have saved the pennies and I eventually modify my car, I would choose ECUTEK (equal or better performance with extra safety).

F

babber

My AFM stays on Blue, and I'm running around 1.2 bar according to my crappy boost gauge.

Cheers Phill C

PS Eurotek is the way forward