Hi guys. I have to change my oil and filter and I am split between one or a pattern filter. I have always bought pattern filters for previous cars with no probs.
My question is then, is there much, if any, difference between a pattern or one part, apart from price, has any research been done?
My car is an 03 Blob STI PPP with a rebuilt engine by API including uprated oil pump.
The oil I will be using will be millers cfs 5w/40.

 

For the amount you save I'd just stick to the oem one mate......that's what I've just bought with millers oil.

 

I know few people using Blueprint, they are good filters, i personally use OE filter.

 

If you can get hold of the "old" bigger blueprint (ADL) you won't go wrong, search ebay, Import Car Parts are selling them for about 8 quid delivered with a sump washer.

 

Been using Mahle filters and Vauxhall 10W40 semi for the past 80,000 odd miles. Now at 177,000 miles on original slappy engine, MY97 UK with DIY PPP.

It's gotta go bang soon

 

RCM website, "Black is back". When subaru introduced the blue oil filter there were a lot of issues with people stating they just couldn't seem to tighten them up.

If you type it in to youtube there are a few people on there who have cut them open and show you the differences.

 

Have used Blueprint myself for the past 2 oil change's, not had a problem
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2302690654...84.m1497.l2649

I used a Blueprint fuelfilter aswell

 

If you put anything but a genuine Subaru filter, ideally the black one, on an APi rebuilt engine you will VOID our warranty.

Sorry, but that's the way it is.

David

PS Don't use 5W anything in an APi engine start at 10W or 15W

 

Even the "pants" ikkle blue one?

 

Could you explain the oil grade choice please David?

 

This is where i get mine from

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2810583147...84.m1439.l2649

 

It's been done a 1000 times before by better people than me BUT briefly:

We see as many if not more regular engines in here for rebuild than just about anyone in the UK, We have built data around engine failures that includes the following.

The car on a top mount was doing over 100 mph when the big ends went.
The car was running full boost on 97 octane unmapped when the big ends went.
The car was being driven hard with the fuel warning light on when the big ends went.
The car was being driven normally but had no oil in the sump when the big ends went.
The car had just had a service that involved engine flush, when the big ends went on the way home.
The car just had a service and they put in 0W ?? when the big ends went
The car just had a service and they put in 5W ?? when the big ends went


So any of the above given the right circumstances can and will break a Subaru engine. Most can be avoided by commonsense.

BUT our overriding view is that if you run on 0w or 5w in a Subaru Turbo you are risking an engine failure. Until you change the oil nothing can be done about it.

You don't have to run down the motorway at over 100 mph on a top mount.
You can run the car on 99 or 100 octane
You can keep fuel in the tank
You can keep oil in the sump
Don't use engine flush in a Subaru turbo

Use a brand name 10W or 15w Oil

Advice based on many years of experience, forget data and facts and "Ah but's "! This is what we see week in week out.

David

 

The engine flush question has been raised before.
The usual flush these days is something like Wynns or Comma which is added to the existing oil for a short while then all drained. Obviously, If the car is driven with this in then very light loads and for only a short distance to circulate the stuff.
I've used Wynns once, but with a rather **** procedure: Add to the existing oil after drawing off some oil through the dipstick tube using a suction pump. Run engine under light load for a couple of miles. Drain oil and re-fill with a semi-syn 10/40. Drive the car over the next week refraining from any 'performance' to absorb any remaining 'flush' Drain the oil and change filter (use this oil in the mower!) using the 'good stuff'
I certainly wouldn't dispute API's findings but it would be nice to know why the Subaru engine is considered so intolerant to such procedures even if carried out correctly?


JohnD

 

If oil changes are carried routinely and regularly using a branded oil of the correct grade with quality filters and the car used sensibly (warmed up/down and no persistant nipping round the corner to get ****), why would a flush be considered necessary?

Years back used to do things like that but the quality of the oils and the engines have increased considerably since the days of the mark 3 Cortina etc

If you consider you Scoob engine (or any other modern engine for that matter) requires a flush, then it is probably goosed any way IMHO

 

Import car parts and RCM both sell the genuine black subaru oil filter

 

JohnD

 

Wasn't aware that the Scoob engine was considered at risk from flushing. Was just surprised that this was still considered a maintenance option on a modern engine that had been looked after.

Comma also manufacture Radseal. They manufacture it because they can sell it, not necessarily because they think it is a good idea.

 

Many thanks

 

Why?

 

And the dance starts again

 

Just wondering why my advice is wrong.

 

If that's you Simon, you know why.................

If it's not, then it is based on our experience that for whatever reason, the flat four Subaru turbo wants to tear itself to bits on anything less than 10W.

We just fix 'em, we don't make 'em and we see the results - no matter how many facts and figures about esters and additives and all that you throw out there, of running on a thin oil in a Subaru turbo engine.

David

Dance ended, I've been here before.

 

Hi David

No, it's Tim, but I've seen your comments stating that before, I've just never seen a reason why. I just have no idea why an oil that is thicker when cold is going to benefit the engine. Subaru themselves recommend a 5w-30 for a lot of Imprezas.

Yes, I accept that a 10w-50 or 15w-50 is a better option for a modified car, or a 10w-40 can help quieten piston slap in an older car, but a 5w will be helping more with cold start protection, when a lot of wear occurs.

I've never been any good at accepting things without a reason. When you're saying that I'm wrong for about half to three quarters of my Subaru recommendations, I think it's only fair if you can give some reasoning.

Cheers

Tim

 

would never run a 0 or 5w30 oil in a Subaru full stop unless your in Scandanavia, etc........

new-age cars have slightly differing specs and we are happy to run 5w40 in more std versions BUT would not recomend in a classic car at all

similiar to David i have personally repaired and over-hauled an awful lot of Subaru engines and base it on "real world" experience not whats written in a book

Alyn

 

So should i not put my 5w 40 gulf oil in my bugeye at the weekend which i got today

 

If your car is mildly modded or standard 5w 40 would be and is my choice.

As also mentioned classics are a different story

 

Tricky one;

How many miles on the bug ?
Has it always run on Gulf 5w40?
If not what ?
Is it standard or modified?

David APi

 

Being a newbie to performance cars I have just purchased Shell Helix 5/40 from oilman's recommendations, running WRX 05 PPP 36K miles. Used daily with occasional B road use

Any advice please?

 

change it and carry on, i use 5w40 and have done for 8 years with no problems on various imprezas, some standard but mostly tuned.

oil threads are a nightmare on here and never come to a definate conclusion as to what is best.

 

Appreciate the advice MrTT. Will continue to use it then. Peace restored!