I'm not an oil expert but my 96STI which runs mid 400s only gets the best 10w50 & 15W50 for track use, as recommended by Paul Finch who did the last engine overhaul.

 

Its done 88000 David
not sure what has been put in over the years even though its got fsh.
Its a standard bugeye with ppp.
My classic i always use a decent 10w 40, no probs yet after 2 years.
If you think a 10 or 15 should be used then i will change it.

 

I always thought 0 5 10 w/ 40 oil was all the same when up to operating temperature and the only differance was the thickness when it's cold ?

Either way ive always used a 5w oil with a blueprint filter and touch wood i have never had a engine failure of any kind in the 9 years ive had a subaru.

 

It will be absolutely ideal for your car, unless it's massively modified. Use it with confidence, it's one of the best oils on the market.

Cheers

Tim

 

Simple advice for that, use it. It's absolutely fine and I've come across quite a few Subaru dealerships that use it.

Cheers

Tim

 

Yes, a 5w-40 and 10w-40 will be pretty much the same viscosity when hot. There is some variance from brand to brand as a viscosity grade is a band rather than an exact point, so you can even find that some 5w-40s will be thicker than a 10w-40 when hot.

Cheers

Tim

 

Sounds right to me - a classic, over 400bhp and track use, I'd definitely go for 10w-50 or 15w-50.

Cheers

Tim

 

Cheers bud

 

Biased, but I would use a 10W as a minimum at that mileage.

Good Luck.

David

 

Re - my post #13 concerning add to oil flush products. What is the opinion of Opie on these considering they sell Motul engine flush (albeit for bike engines)

JohnD

 

Ach ! A verry interestant qvestion Herr Poirot.................

Commerciality against truth - glad l don't have to answer.

APi's abiding motto is:

We use and recommend whatever we have on the shelf today.



NOT.

David

 

Very interesting thread indeed this
Just at this very moment putting her indoors engine back together after rebuilding it
Was bought with a knock anyway ,but I'm sure it was the oil filters fault it started knocking
Was fitted with a lil blue genuine filter (subaru) and according to the supporting history with the car was fitted when a service was done some 7months ago

The trouble with her filter was the fact it had rusted from the outside in ,infactso much so that I snapped parts of it off removing with my bare hands

I'm assuming that engines don't like ingesting air and rusty particles directly via oil filter
Also noted the insides of it were also loose not sure if that was before or after removal though as was err hard to tell

I won't be refitting a genuine blue filter again for sure

 

Hi John

Although we have the motul flush, flushing isn't something that I'd recommend unless the engine is full of muck. The reason is that you can add the flush and loosen things without removing them, then when the fresh oil goes in, the detergents in that may them may cause those bits to get into the oil system - solid bits in the oil system is really not what you want. The worst cases I've come across is where someone has done a flush and a change, then a few days later the oil pick up blocks and there's no oil flow. One guy had a 5 or 6 year old Audi, so not a cheap fix at all (but a good example of not using long life servicing).

Cheers

Tim

 

I was wondering what the effectivness of the product would be considering the mix ratio of around 1:10 with the existing oil.
It wasn't so much the dislodging of solids/semi-solids which of course could cause problems, it was more the actual use of the product itself. API seemed to intimate that simply using the stuff would put the engine at risk irrespective of whether solids were dislodged or not, although I could accept it was the knock-on effect of loosened particals which caused an engine to fail.

JohnD

 

Ah, I see what you mean. Thinking about it, a bike and car often take a similar amount of oil. A lot of 600-1000CC bikes will need just under 4L, so not far off the capacity of a car engine. Some bikes take up to 5L of oil and I'm sure Motul will have put enough in the bottle to cover that, so it should be fine to use it in an Impreza if needed. The product itself isn't going to cause harm to the engine (you would have to be pretty stupid to release a product that attacks the engine in some way).

Cheers

Tim

 

[QUOTE=oilman;10979317]Ah, I see what you mean. Thinking about it, a bike and car often take a similar amount of oil. A lot of 600-1000CC bikes will need just under 4L, so not far off the capacity of a car engine. Some bikes take up to 5L of oil and I'm sure Motul will have put enough in the bottle to cover that, so it should be fine to use it in an Impreza if needed. The product itself isn't going to cause harm to the engine (you would have to be pretty stupid to release a product that attacks the engine in some way).


God's been doing that for centuries .......

 

Wow! Again a simple question raises so much debate. Depending on who's post you read, the use of a 0w or 5w oil is not recommended. I will follow the advice of the engine builders this time as they see more rebuilds than the average person.
This again is down to the experience of such people, you can't buy experience. David from API recommends a 10w/40 oil and I will follow that.
Out of interest David what oil would you use at your garage, I presume you would buy it in in drums rather than 5 litre containers.
Also whilst a knowledgable audience seems to be at my disposal what are people's thoughts on the ZX1 oil additive. I'm not going to describe the product as it can be easily Googled,or Binged, or Yahood

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

At risk of Opie's wrath, we don't nominate any particular oil 'cos once you get into 'proper brand name oil ' they're all much the same. [ Flame suit on and buttoned up tight ] We stick with 10 or 15/40 and 10 or 15/50.

Additives are a sop for human frailties. All the big oil companies go to great lengths to create a well developed and balanced oil. Just sticking "Fred Nerk's" additive in is probably just increasing the amount of whatever it is unnecessarily. Assuming it isn't snake oil in the first place......

For example: if you need one vitamin tablet a day - taking two will not make any difference. Like that "Probiotic drink " crap that you get sold on telly. It isn't doing anything that your body isn't doing already.

David

 

That's something I will agree with you on, additives are pointless, a lot of time and money has gone into developing reputable oils, adding anything to it is just messing with what they are. .

Cheers

Tim

 

My work is complete here.......................

 

Ha, ha................The ZX-1 debate on here was quite entertaining some years back with a considerable input from Oilman amongst others.
It's one of those things where you don't actually see the benefit, you just hope it's doing it's thing on the metal surfaces of your engine!
To reduce the threat of another multi-page thread, do a search, it might still be lurking within the bowels of Scoobynet archives!

JohnD

 

Not all of the engine builders are against 5w oils,just to confuse you further!

 

And according to my Subaru handbook they don't have a problem with it either.

 

and you'd trust the same people that gave us chocolate pistons, 2.5 potential gasket issues and piston slap................

 

When you put it that way i dont know why anyone would want one it seems some of them are delicate little flowers.




For sale bugeye no unusual engine noises, it's in perfect condition the only small defect is the stereo has jammed on full volume.

 

 

I found my jdm bug sti with 78k on the clock loosing a bit o oil when doing spirited blasts.... 10w50 , 15w50 should sort it out as i did in a classic ?? I think gulf 15w50 is on my next oil change...

 

How much is it using and is it modified?

Cheers

Tim

 

I would not bother with going to a 15w, there is nothing to gain over using a 10w. I would stick with 10w-50 and accept a bit of usage for an oil that, overall will flow better accross the temp range.

Below is a little table that shows the difference between different viscosities at various temps. The 100degc viscosity is not correct if you are running SAE50, but the rest applies! For those running SAE40 this is also worth a look.

These examples show viscosities at different temperatures measured in centistokes.

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.

Just look at the different viscosities at cold temperatures!

Grade................0degC............10degC...... .........40degC...............100degC
0w-40...............665cst.............354cst........ ..........82cst................14cst
5w-40...............842cst............ 430cst..................91cst................14cst
10w-40.............874cst.............440cst .................91cst................14cst
15w-40...........1260cst.............595cst........... ......107cst................14cst

As you can see from this, if the car is a daily drive 15w will not be flowing very well at start up! Especially in these colder months...This is why we recommend 5w in many cases as 90% of engine wear occurs on start up.

You can also see that there is not huge difference between 5w-40 and 10w-40 accross the temp range, so I dont buy the" 5w kills engines", the facts just dont stack up to support that argument.

Cheers

Guy.

 

thats fine, are you going to "buy" something for those people that have suffered an engine failure then.......

regardless of how many "lab tests" and pieces of paper you post the simple facts are that in a number of scenarios the lower grades of oil do cause problems

we actually accept them in certain arena's as we know the engine will be refreshed within 1000-1500miles and balance it against the potential power improvement BUT this is not a risk i would take with a customers daily driver