TPS voltage query
#1
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TPS voltage query
Guy's,
After trying to start my car yesterday, it wanted to try and go but just wouldnt kick into life.
No error codes come up on the fault reader and so I started to check voltages at the ecu across the different sensors.
The TPS sensor comes up with a max of 4.7v closed and 0.01 fully open.
Now no matter what i do to try and adjust this, the fully open always goes to 0.01v. The closed loop voltage I can adjust.
Whats your thoughts ? could it be the TPS is caput or something else ?
Car is a MY96 V2 STI 555, standard engine.
Cheers
After trying to start my car yesterday, it wanted to try and go but just wouldnt kick into life.
No error codes come up on the fault reader and so I started to check voltages at the ecu across the different sensors.
The TPS sensor comes up with a max of 4.7v closed and 0.01 fully open.
Now no matter what i do to try and adjust this, the fully open always goes to 0.01v. The closed loop voltage I can adjust.
Whats your thoughts ? could it be the TPS is caput or something else ?
Car is a MY96 V2 STI 555, standard engine.
Cheers
Last edited by matscooby; 10 May 2012 at 12:26 PM.
#3
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Cheers for those threads.
I wish my car was running right as so I could of left this issue alone but I've spent the last 2 days trying to resolve an issue with 2 things.
1st problem being -
Trying to cold start the car after being stood still overnight and where we've had some rain
Basically my issue is that every morning I go to start the car after its stood overnight and we've had some rain, the car wont idle properly.
It tries to idle at around 1500rpm but the car just splutters and is running very rough like its running on 3 cylinders. To keep the car running, I have to put some influence on the car by trying to keep it above 2000 rpm until the water temp gauge reads normal operating temp where it then runs fine.
2nd Issue being -
Once the car is at normal temp both on oil and water temp, the car will driver along perfectly, no black smoke on accerelation, splutter or anything, but and I mean BUT when slowing down and I either use engine braking or using the brakes, as soon as the rpm gets down to 2500 rpm down to where I stop the car, the CEL comes on and I have to give the car a few seconds to let it idle properly and the light goes out and once again it drives off perfectly.
The Fault code reads Idle Control valve, admittedly I changed this for a another used one and I still have the same issue.
Looking at all area's that what could cause this problem, mainly the Idle valve, the voltage I have from this is 8v at Open like it should though the close voltage I'm getting is 4.58 where it should between 6-7v.
Now I've read on here from other users, one sensor could disguise its fault onto another.
As the TPS voltage is slightly out, could it fool the ECU as to when the butterfly valve is open or closed where then the ECU tries to actuate the Idle valve when it shouldn't thus giving the CEL light when slowing down.
I could be talking out of my **** but its getting on my t*t
Any idea's ?
I wish my car was running right as so I could of left this issue alone but I've spent the last 2 days trying to resolve an issue with 2 things.
1st problem being -
Trying to cold start the car after being stood still overnight and where we've had some rain
Basically my issue is that every morning I go to start the car after its stood overnight and we've had some rain, the car wont idle properly.
It tries to idle at around 1500rpm but the car just splutters and is running very rough like its running on 3 cylinders. To keep the car running, I have to put some influence on the car by trying to keep it above 2000 rpm until the water temp gauge reads normal operating temp where it then runs fine.
2nd Issue being -
Once the car is at normal temp both on oil and water temp, the car will driver along perfectly, no black smoke on accerelation, splutter or anything, but and I mean BUT when slowing down and I either use engine braking or using the brakes, as soon as the rpm gets down to 2500 rpm down to where I stop the car, the CEL comes on and I have to give the car a few seconds to let it idle properly and the light goes out and once again it drives off perfectly.
The Fault code reads Idle Control valve, admittedly I changed this for a another used one and I still have the same issue.
Looking at all area's that what could cause this problem, mainly the Idle valve, the voltage I have from this is 8v at Open like it should though the close voltage I'm getting is 4.58 where it should between 6-7v.
Now I've read on here from other users, one sensor could disguise its fault onto another.
As the TPS voltage is slightly out, could it fool the ECU as to when the butterfly valve is open or closed where then the ECU tries to actuate the Idle valve when it shouldn't thus giving the CEL light when slowing down.
I could be talking out of my **** but its getting on my t*t
Any idea's ?
#4
Scooby Regular
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Have u checked that the magnet bearing on top of he iacv has not glazed over, take the electromagnet off remember where it goes, there should be a tube like magnet inside on a shaft, the bearing can glaze over and get the valve stuck in either open or cloed position, or like my last 1 I didn't have a magnet
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