timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

Hi All

Thought**** i had finally found what has been causing my boost issues.

boost kept dropping & then later down the road would pick up & work again & then it would be dead for week or 2 at 0.6 bar

Got a replacement actuator from a fully working scoob that got broke, fitted it & it started to work again (also over time i have replaced 3 port solenoid maf, plugs etc & no electrical issues shown from trying to cure this issue.)

Tried adjusting the actuator & hey presto started to work again, now it pulls far better than ever but still every now an again will decide to run low boost with no check engine light etc. So i reckon its just a case of setting it right?

Any pointers on how best to set it up or should i buy a new one like a forge or a new one off fleabay but notice they state different psi & i have no idea what i would need for it to operate best.

All i know is i have a scoobyecu chip (formerly polar performance chip) so it should run 1.1 bar boost etc. It does when it works

so can any one help to adjust it or tell me which one to buy for my tdo5h 16g that will work better with this boost over a standard one?

Thanks

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

Rule of thumb is that it should have half a hole of pre-load

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for the reply paulo p but sorry what does that mean?!?

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

Set the rod up so that the end of the rod is half a hole too short to go over the wastegate and then pull the rod out to stretch it over and pop the cir-clip on

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

aarrrggghhh! i see now! thanks Paulo, appreciate it, will give it a go

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

+1 to Paulo P's advice.

This is what an API mechanic did, when fitting a Forge T2 actuator to my TD05H 20g.

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

sorry to ressurect an old thread, but i am still having this intermittent loss of boost down to 0.5/0.6/0.7 etc as & when it wants with no CEL or warnings.

anyone any ideas?

i have tried various settings with the actuator & tried to set it right so when it boosts it hits the desired 1.1 bar as per the scoobyecu chip.

changed so far:
MAF
plugs
coil packs
ecu temp sendor
fuel filter
different super unleadeds
standard fuel pump/walbro fuel pump & now on HRC fuel pump
changed & cleaned 3 port solenoids (bought another to try)
idle control solenoids (bought another to try)
checked all pipework & cleaned them out unable to see any splits
still have the bits in the boost pipes
numerous ecu resets
standard dump valve has been changed for another standard & still no different.
no electrical faults stored or show up

really am gutted with this issue & i feel like banging my head against a brick wall!

only thing thats at the back of my mind is the wastegate itself could be knackered?

please someone help!!!!

marcevs72

iTrader: (5)

just had this with my 93 wrx.running 0.7 when should be 0.9 with the z4 ecu.no leaks,problems,cel lights etc.ended up getting manual boost controller and setting it at just under 1.0bar and runs lovely now.have afr gauge and readings ok as well.

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for the reply, a friend has a manual boost controller an he offered it me to try, i will get him to plumb it in and do some trials with it.

Samantha Patey

Hi, I am having a similar problem, I have just changed my clutch so I removed the engine, it's now back in but I'm stuck witch vacume pipe goes where? And my boost gauge is reading -20, is this right, it's a jap import wrx 1995 impreza with td 05, and it doesn't seem to be boosting right. And when it does its like it hits a fuel cut. Any info much appreciated. Thanks

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

- something is correct on tickover an when your not using boost.
Have you check for fauLt codes?

Samantha Patey

Not checked codes, how do you? Sorry this is my second scooby so I'm not to clued up on these engines, yea at tick over its lumpy, sometimes tickover too low and about to die, I give it a a bit of throttle and the revs sometime go up to 2000 and stays there for a while, I was wondering if the vacume pipes are wrong or what. I'm not sure.But its defently not boosting right.where does the boost gauge T into? I might of put that back wrong?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

-20 could well be correct on idle - depends on the units of your vacuum gauge.

But if it's reading in the common psi or bar or kg/cm^2 units, then indeed, -20 is not right.


FTR, mine idles at -0.6 to -0.7 bar

And -0.7 bar does equal -20 in Hg (inches mercury). So is your vacuum reading in "in Hg" then?!

Samantha Patey

Yh just checked it and it's in he so it's about right the?. But however I still got the issue of when I hit about 10 it hits a fuel cut, could anyone tell me what this is about?, thanks for reassuring me with the gauge.


And on any ideas least cost effective to up the power, iv just got rid of my 1997 wrx and that was off its ***** compared to this 1995 wrx. I'm not sure what it had done to it as it was like it when I bought it but I want to get the same sort of power out of this if I can. It's got no boost controller, do these help as my old one had apexi saf 2 boost controller, do the help achieve more boost?. As I said I'm new to these engines so if any one could point me to the right thugs that would be much appreciated. Thanks

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Well, despite your issue, a 1997 WRX had 276bhp compared to your 237bhp 1995 WRX. So you already have a shortfall of 39bhp or c.14% down (give or take for variances).

And that is when your car is working okay! So no wonder it feels limp compared to your previous steed.

Is the positive (in boost) part of the gauge in the same "in Hg" units - or something else? If it's still in in Hg, then 10 is only about 0.3bar! So yeah something strange going on if you're getting fuel cut or boost cut at such low boost!

Can you not post a pic up showing the vac lines to the turbo, boost solenoid, inlet manifold and even the gauge? Plus of the "unconnected vac line"? We need to see how it's all plumbed in really, before anything else...

Samantha Patey

I think it's all sorted. I've been messing about with it all day and I finally think iv sussed it, it's boosting ok with no power cut. But still not as grunty as my old 1997 but as you say that's 39 bhp more than what I got. I've seen these chips on ebay to go in the ecu they recon it increces bhp by 35? And ment to be a fuel saver? Are these chips worth buying? Or anything else that I can get to tune her up? But I will post pics of vacume diagram tomorrow incase anything is wrong, and yea the whole gauge is in hg. Where's the best place to get proper gauge?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

- Your cheapest way to get the power would be to get hold of a 275PS (271bhp) STi Version II ECU and simply swap it over! Can't remember its 2-digit ID though(?). Its map is for the same hardware as what's on your car, so you don't need to do anything else. Just advisable to use the highest octane available i.e. V-Power or Momenetum99 (both c.99 RON).

Thing is, they're as rare as rocking horse ****. Or you could opt for the more common MY96 WRX ECU - the "Z4" - 260PS (256bhp) instead.

Failing all of that, a renowned chip off member Major Sarcasm (if he still does them?). It gets soldered into the spare area on your OEM ECU, cut the "J1" resistor and you're good to go. Should get you between 260-280bhp (depending on whether you have a decat d/p + decent system fitted).

Steer clear of eBay chips like the plague!!!


- Your gauge is fine. But if you can't relate to the units, then best to get a mechanical one reading in bar or psi; whatever your preference.

I have this vacuum/boost gauge in my STi 5 (and also had it on my old 93 WRX):-

White 7 Color BAR Boost / Vacuum Gauge

On eBay too:-

52mm WHITE FACE BOOST / VACUUM VAC GAUGE METER - BAR

Affordable, looks good (all but a perfect match for my STi's clocks) and works great - accurate, as confirmed by mapping sessions. You can change its backlighting colour for the numbers to 9 different modes, to suit your mood lol. In daylight, the facia is white.

Just a note: It comes from the US, so you'll have to wait a bit, and it might attract a bit of UK customs duty and/or VAT (I can't recall TBH).


Obviously there are plenty of other gauges available (in the UK), and of all different styles. From cheap and nasty, raw mechanical or electro-mechanical, to ridiculously (and, IMO, unnecessarily) expensive!...

Samantha Patey

Ah, iv just noticed that the boost gauge is in psi above 0. So I'm getting the power gut at 10 - 13 psi, is this normal? But it's only when full throtal, as the turbo don't seem to kick in untill about 4-5 thousand revs, and my old scooby used to boost at 2-3 thousand revs. How do I adjust this, ?.

marcevs72

iTrader: (5)

your last car had a td04 turbo which spools up quicker and the car now has a td05 which is later up the rev range so nowt you can really do about it.

Samantha Patey

What's better, td05 or 04

marcevs72

iTrader: (5)

04 spools up lower down the rev range but 05 makes more power.
prefer 05 as can just bimble around on zero boost if you want.my last car just wanted to take off all the time.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Ahhh. So looks like everything;s working as it should as 10-13ps is 0.7-0.9bar, and IIRC your car's target boost is 0.79bar.


marcy has explained this aspect.

But even so, I will say the 4-5k is too high for max boost to kick in. It should be more the other side of 4k: in the c.3.5-4k area for a TD05H 16g....

TURBO PERFORMANCE TESTING

In 4th gear on a trailing throttle at 2000rpm on a flat, level, well-sighted road...

Floor it and monitor boost @ rpm -- at what rpm do you first reach full boost.

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

still got my issue here guys!