Notices

electrical outputs on engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 16 March 2012, 06:23 PM
  #1  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default electrical outputs on engine

hi all,
on a 95 wrx is there an output from the engine that changes volts with more revs? ive checked the injectors and the tach wire, but im just getting 12v ish, any help would be good, thanks,
phil.
Old 16 March 2012, 06:48 PM
  #2  
Turbotits
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Turbotits's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Nope. Should be anywhere between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. 12v with engine running is to low. Sounds like an alternator issue.
Old 16 March 2012, 07:08 PM
  #3  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

so theres nothing at all that changes with the revs?
Old 16 March 2012, 07:46 PM
  #4  
Don Clark
Scooby Regular
 
Don Clark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 7,558
Received 746 Likes on 619 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by thewhitewarrior
so theres nothing at all that changes with the revs?

So what are you trying to do?????
Old 16 March 2012, 08:45 PM
  #5  
Turbotits
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Turbotits's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The alternator may go up a volt from idle to 2000rpm. After that it should be stable. What is it your trying to acheive?

You will see voltage change on lamda and maf sensors. But there only 0 to 5volts.

Last edited by Turbotits; 16 March 2012 at 08:51 PM.
Old 16 March 2012, 08:52 PM
  #6  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

my rad is in the boot and thinking of going electric pump that works off the revs some how, ill look at the alternator tomorrow, i was hoping to find a something that gives 2-5 volts on tickover and upto 13 volts when reved higher?
Old 16 March 2012, 11:10 PM
  #7  
r1c
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
r1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: cambridgeshire
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Your rad is in the boot! That's an interesting concept! May I ask why?
I think you'll find your alternator will go from 12.7 ish to maybe 14 volts from idle to full chat, I'm not sure you will find anything that has a big enough range of voltage.
Could you not fit 2 electric fans to the rad and fit a toggle switch in the dash? I built a bike engined mini a few years ago, engine in the boot rad in the front but the water pump wasn't man enough to push the water at idle. Worked for me!!
Old 16 March 2012, 11:19 PM
  #8  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

look at my avitar or go in my garage, i have a mk1 escort wit5h 95 wrx engine and running gear in, no room for rad in front, i have 2 fans but like your mini, the pump is not upto the job, just thought about an electric pump to help?

Last edited by thewhitewarrior; 16 March 2012 at 11:20 PM.
Old 16 March 2012, 11:46 PM
  #9  
r1c
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
r1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: cambridgeshire
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok, I found whilst driving it was up to the job but any more than 2-3 mins in traffic I'd be about to overheat, thats why I went electric fan and switch on the dash, only took a few weeks to get used to. Just flicked it on as I hit town or traffic. If I forgot the expansion bottle was attached to the roll cage behind the drivers seat, so I got a spray of steam on the back of my neck!! I only got one tho, f-ing hot that was, lesson well learnt!!
Just out of interest, if you can find a man enough pump, do you have sufficient air flow?
Gonna go look at you thread now, enjoy the build mate
Old 17 March 2012, 12:24 AM
  #10  
ianbott
Scooby Regular
 
ianbott's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Warrington
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

There is no reason why the pump won't be up to the job, there are literally hundreds and maybe thousands of people who have put a Subaru engine in the back of there Volkswagen T25 van with the rad up front and engine in the back with no issues. My guess is you will have to redesign the cooling a little, maybe by using an external thermostat and junk the original one which really isn't suitable when increasing the volume of the coolant system so much.
HTH cheers Ian.
Old 17 March 2012, 08:40 AM
  #11  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

thanks, yes the air flow is very good now, it is a bit wierd as it coped untill i left it on the drive for a few weeks, now it doesnt seem to be doing anything, i have took the thermostat out, so that wont be an issue, ill have another look at a blockage today and i may just fit the electric pump ill let you know :-)

Last edited by thewhitewarrior; 18 March 2012 at 06:32 PM.
Old 17 March 2012, 08:45 AM
  #12  
jayallen
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (31)
 
jayallen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: The Fabulist Hunter
Posts: 7,899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

A friend of mine has a silimar project on the go, im not sure what rad he is using but it will be mounted in the front of the car..
Old 17 March 2012, 03:37 PM
  #13  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

quick update, i fitted the electric pump and made a few pipes straighterand it has solved it, i may put a termostat switch in the pipe work to turn the pump on and off, the only thing is, i cant tell if the pump stops working? but its all good for now :-)
Old 18 March 2012, 06:31 PM
  #14  
thewhitewarrior
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
thewhitewarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: in the engine bay
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

hi again,
another quick update, just for them that maybe doing a project the same,
i tried just the normal water pump and it works fine now, so im guessing before i put the electric pump in, there must have been a big air blockage, thats why i thought it was broke, the electric pump is now used as a primming pump to make sure all the air is out :-)
as IANBOTT said the pump can cope with ease, i have removed the thermostst though as it has a long way to go,
a big thanks to all who had a say,
phil.
Old 18 March 2012, 06:50 PM
  #15  
ianbott
Scooby Regular
 
ianbott's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Warrington
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey Phil that's good news, but as said you really should be using a thermostat, I'm doing a similar thing with a vw beach buggy with the engine in the back and rad up front, due to this I've fitted an external thermostat from a BMW, works a treat and maintains a correct temperature in the engine.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KAS35RSTI
Subaru
27
04 November 2021 07:12 PM
Sam Witwicky
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
17
13 November 2015 10:49 AM
Brzoza
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
1
02 October 2015 05:26 PM
Ganz1983
Subaru
5
02 October 2015 09:22 AM
shorty87
Other Marques
0
25 September 2015 08:52 PM



Quick Reply: electrical outputs on engine



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:34 PM.