crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

why my recirc is pushing out air loads, its keeping the piston on oe recirc forced open when im not even on throttle ?.. and when i am on throttle there is a force 1 gale going on !

when i leave the car to idle with the oem recirc pushing out the air the car idles purfect but..
if i cover the recirc pipe outlet or even put my forge dumpvale on the the car just cuts out after a few secs ..

i did post a thread a few weeks back with no joy interms of been
able to figure out a solution but didnt find 1 so figured with the insentive of abit of cash i might get lucky

it a 98/99 v5 type r

engine mods:

catch can
zerosports hard pipe
k&n cone filter
lateral turbo intake hose ( 1 take off for recirc, bunged up )+( 1 take off added for boost solenoid)
standard vf28

pics ..

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

I would suggest putting the pipe back on the re-circ valve that goes to the inlet pipe, That should do it

Do i get £20 now?

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Lol the recirc pipework has been removed from under the manifold so that's not a option

Nice try though ..

Ian

iTrader: (10)

the recirc valve wont ac t the same as a vta valve by just venting it to the air. you need it plumbed in right like said in the above post or you need a twin piston style one that is designed to vta.

im sure if you have the standard recirc valve not plumbed in correct, it will be acting the same as if you took a fmic pipe off.

Ian

iTrader: (10)

i would not drive my car like that with a standard recirc valve venting to the air. im sure the turbo will be having to work its nuts off trying to make boost

BLU

iTrader: (27)

So your recirc is getting constant vaccuum holding it open?

Where is the vacuum pipe for the recirc attached?

Ian

iTrader: (10)

on the pic above you can see it on the inlet manifold. any point off that will be fine for a bov

BLU

iTrader: (27)

Thought so.....

Suppose the only option if the return pipe can't be added is to replace it with a BOV

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

On your last thread i told you to put the standard pipe work back on, so once you do that & the car runs fine I'll be expecting my £20

You want this setup to work and it won't, listen to the advice being given or take it to a proper garage.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

the car is not been driven im just trying to get the engine all up and running first.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

the piston is open all the time .. i have checked the oem recirc valave and its not falty ...

the amount off air that is passing thought is what is keeping the recirc open .... if i put on my forge dv which will effective shut off the air getting out the car just dies .....

all the air coming out is off throttle

Ian

iTrader: (10)

you you have 2 options as far as i see it.

you you have a recirc valve, standard or aftermarket. you have to have it plumed in right and not vta.

if you want a vta sound, you need to buy a vta type valve. a recirc one will just not work

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Its the only way it will work with that set up mate, You say the inlet has a take off that is bunged up, Just remove the bung and fit some hose, Job done

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

i have a forge vta ... if i put this on it shut off the airflow coming through and the engine dies ... the reason the oem is on there is because the car runs with it on untill i find a solution

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

hi gaz ... i will bare that it mind but tbh i think there is a anoither issue .. when u say it is the only way it will work with that set up what do u mean ??

ianbott

I think the problem that needs addressing is why does your car try to cut out when the dump valve is closed? I'm running no dump valve and my engine runs sweet. I would be looking towards the wastegate or turbo in general. If the dumpvalve closes there is no reason it should cut out.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Hi Ian thanks for taking the time to read it ..

Yes exactly why when I put my forge on the car will cut out after about 6-7 seconds due to the fact it has no where for the air to go ??

Sorry to every1 if u think I'm missing a point .. But ! Surly the air should only be released when u let off the throttle not it gushing out and holding the piston back in the oe recirc as there is so much

If I could post a video I would but abit unsure

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

Maybe your OE dump valve is knackered? Like ive said 3 fvcking times now, put the car back to standard & see if it runs ok. You could be chasing several different problems & without a baseline you are not going to get far.

BLU

iTrader: (27)

If, like you say, when fitting the forge dump valve the car stalls then it sounds to me like you have a problem with the icv sticking shut or getting no signal from the ecu.

As mentioned above reconnect the recirc up properly and see what happens. If it does the same then I'd be looking at the ICV.

Dutch Scooby lover

iTrader: (3)

Maybe the VTA Forge has a broken spring.
The smaller one underneath the piston does go from time to time, and that causes a post MAF air leak, and bad running.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

i do understand what ur saying just for me to go back to standard means removing manifold again buying another turbo intake pipe and having to do it.. b4 u say anything yes i want to get the car running at its best and i do want to resolve the problem, just i would like to try to all avenues b4 i have to start removing the manifold etc.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

ive taken the dv apart ... all in good working order

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

ok so .. the way i would imagin it is that the standard the recirc would put back the excess air into the system ( when u let foot off throttle ) the problem been there is a constant strong flow of air which is pinning the piston of the revirc valve open, when i put the forge on it block the flow as the spring is harder causing the car to cut out as there is no where for this air flow to go ..

yesterday i removed the icv which was fully carboned up (needed a good clean !) prior to me having this v5 i had a 95 where the icv whas ajustable ... what im wondering is dose any part of the icv move on a v5 as when i took it out nothing moved on it up or down or round, i didnt force anthing but where the icv on the 95 u can move i was alittle supprised that on the the v5 it didnt ....
is it fooked or is that just the way it should be ??

cheers

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

I think you are going to end up chasing your tail then, but best of luck.

stedee

iTrader: (4)

the icv`s work differently on v5/6 , i think its a stepper motor, i dont know what been deleted on yours ,does the icv have a feed to the inlet pipe like v3/4???

are all your vac pipes on???

as above somewhere, sounds like your wastegate stuck shut, you havent messed with the turbo actuator or anything????

and from the sound of the problem dont think having a recirc would help anyway but there are always the " put it back to standard posters" , that`ll fix it

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

100% all vac pipes are on .. The turbo I bought off a person on eBay ( dont laugh ) . The main problem been I cannot drive the car atm, I bought it almost as a shell and am building it up to put back on the road. .. The thing is this problem is occurring before the dv as there is so much air ... I also no people are telling me to return to standard just alot of effort to get it where it's at and would be alot more if I have to return to standard..

Not quite sure on the setup on the icv all I can say on it really is that it plugs into the top of throttle body .. As I said I took it out and nothing moved, nothing like a my95 icv that's for sure ...

This problem is def not the recirc or dv related its 100% Somthing else like turbo or icv maybe ...

Sorry for been vague.

ianbott

Try disconnecting the vacuum pipe from th D/V and try running it, the boost pressure alone isn't enough to open a D/V it relies on the vacuum pressure from a closed throttle to suck the D/V open.
As said earlier even if you completely blocked the D/V there is no reason why the engine wouldn't run.
Oh also I'd test the boost control solenoid to ensure it is bleeding boost away correctly, or in your case check if it's bleedIng any boost away.
Do you have a boost gauge? If not get one and monitor the results.

stedee

iTrader: (4)

also try puliing the actuator rod just to see if its is moving, they are quite hard to move but could have been bent if posted

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

Only to see if the dump valve can be ruled out of the equation, start from a known position, i.e. standard inlet piping & work from there. Logical steps not try this & then try that.

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

Just a wild thought, but have you still got a MAF? you could try disconnecting it & see what happens. Its tricky to see in the photos if you have one still.