charged7

Hi all,
Slight issue has begun to show itself on my recently purchased 1996 wrx wagon.
Under light driving all is well but when i go for it the car stutters a bit....
Was fine before but seems to be getting a little worse.
Read loads of bits up and was planning on changing plugs but are there any tests i can do???
Also read temp sensor possibly.....
I have cleaned the MAF and Boost solenoid out and reset the ecu but no change, mainly seems under WOT...
cheers in advance
joe

bmposer

iTrader: (3)

I would try the plugs and coil packs first.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

What mods does the car have, if any?

charged7

its a wagon running TD05 and Z4 ecu, exhaust and K&N panel filter. no changes done since i bought it and was fine at first.
cheers

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

What fuel?
Also where is it stuttering in the rev range?

Tony

charged7

always run bp high or optimax.
and seems to be on boost, light driving doesn't seem to do it.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

No change to dumpvalve? Aftermarket one?

Could be plugs/leads/coilpack.

charged7

has a brand new bailey DV on it actually, forgot about that but checked and theres no leaks. Was fine for first week of having it on....
will order some plugs and check coil packs too

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Take the dumpvalve off, refit the OE recirculating one and come back and tell us if the problem goes away.........please.

charged7

ok will do that tomo, can i ask why you think it could be that?
cheers

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Because VTA dumpvalves are known to cause running issues on many Scoobs, over-fuelling etc.

And do a search on here: Baileys is a swearword to genuine Impreza ENTHUSIASTS, they really are cr@p, sorry...........

charged7

lol dont worry i am not offended...lol.
what would be your recomendation on a valve? recirc or atmospheric and brand? forge? i was looking to chage it as hate the noise...lol.
Plus if its the cause of the issue then it gotta go

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Stick with the recirculating valve, and the standard ones are fine unless you go FMIC and big power.

Mine is 400/400, FMIC and runs a Forge..........recirculating type

charged7

ok, will play tomo after work and get back to you.
thanks very much for the help so far.
joe

shag

iTrader: (10)

change your coil packs mate , job done.

charged7

will try to get time to take them out and look at them, but trying to remove DV first, getting on my nerves anyway...lol.
Another person has said MAF so could be soo many....lol

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

Have you checked for error codes ? Defo change that dv

charged7

will loose the DV tomoand report back, was late home today.
cheers

charged7

right, DV out and standard valve back in. Problem still there.
if anything today its a little worse but i dont think that is down to the valve being changed.
I haven't started it since sunday so not sure if damp or anything.
Was going to order some plugs as prob not a bad idea anyway and can check coil packs then, also found this link below for testing the maf, is this the best method to work out if its that before i buy a new one??

http://forums.sidc.co.uk/topic/13477...lassic-solved/

...cheers again

e110at

I had this problem make sure the plugs are gapped to 0.6-0.65 max, grade 7 I use, hope this helps

charged7

Problem solved.
Bought some new irdium plugs and got them fit in, the old ones were wrongly gapped and crap, notvery good at all so she is sweet now.
cheers for help guys

oobyJu

iTrader: (2)

just a quick note, it's important to get the temp grade right when choosing plugs, they need to absorb/transmit enough heat to keep them at the right temp or they foul or burn up.

charged7

old ones were some crappy ngk r heat 6, news are the BRK....7 iridiums.....