Do I have to completely disconnect brake lines to swap front shocks?!
01 November 2011, 09:53 PM
#1
Do I have to completely disconnect brake lines to swap front shocks?!
It's a classic. I am putting some red STI shocks on but have found that the brake lines appear to be threaded through the bracket on the strut and look like they'll need disconnecting and the brakes bleeding once the shocks are swapped. Is this right?
01 November 2011, 09:57 PM
#2
That's the 'official' way to do it mate but you can cheat by cutting the bracket with a hacksaw[fine blade] and then bend it over to get the brake pipe out,repeat the process on the new shocks and bend it back into position when done and put the clip back on to hold the pipe in place.
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01 November 2011, 10:48 PM
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you need to remove the 12mm bolts holding the rear seats in ,including the one in the centre between the lower and upper pieces,
5 bolts in all,two in bottom where your feet would be if you sit in it
one behind you as you are sitting in the midddle of the seat
thinks there is another two once you take out the bottom section of the seat
you can then access the top mounts either side.
5 bolts in all,two in bottom where your feet would be if you sit in it
one behind you as you are sitting in the midddle of the seat
thinks there is another two once you take out the bottom section of the seat
you can then access the top mounts either side.
Last edited by classicgc8; 01 November 2011 at 10:50 PM.
01 November 2011, 10:53 PM
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you need to remove the 12mm bolts holding the rear seats in ,including the one in the centre between the lower and upper pieces,
5 bolts in all,two in bottom where your feet would be if you sit in it
one behind you as you are sitting in the midddle of the seat
thinks there is another two once you take out the bottom section of the seat
you can then access the top mounts either side.
5 bolts in all,two in bottom where your feet would be if you sit in it
one behind you as you are sitting in the midddle of the seat
thinks there is another two once you take out the bottom section of the seat
you can then access the top mounts either side.
02 November 2011, 12:27 AM
#11
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I took the oportunity to change to braided Goodridge hoses at the same time. Two birds with one stone.
Plus if your shocks are gone, when was the last time the brake fluid was replaced? Do mine every 1 to 2 years anyway as brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water)
They usually handle much better on fresh shocks (sti or otherwise), but remember to get the camber and tracking set up after disturbing the suspension. Found max allowed front negative camber helped reduce understeer no end. And a touch of front toe in helps prevent scrubbing the inside edges. IMHO of course but I think Prodrive recommend similar. This is for the classic, don't know about the new age.
Good luck and enjoy the improvements
Plus if your shocks are gone, when was the last time the brake fluid was replaced? Do mine every 1 to 2 years anyway as brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water)
They usually handle much better on fresh shocks (sti or otherwise), but remember to get the camber and tracking set up after disturbing the suspension. Found max allowed front negative camber helped reduce understeer no end. And a touch of front toe in helps prevent scrubbing the inside edges. IMHO of course but I think Prodrive recommend similar. This is for the classic, don't know about the new age.
Good luck and enjoy the improvements
Last edited by his-n-her-scoobs; 02 November 2011 at 08:08 AM.
02 November 2011, 07:01 AM
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