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-   -   Do I have to completely disconnect brake lines to swap front shocks?! (https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/911606-do-i-have-to-completely-disconnect-brake-lines-to-swap-front-shocks.html)

Jay Cartay 01 November 2011 09:53 PM

Do I have to completely disconnect brake lines to swap front shocks?!
 
It's a classic. I am putting some red STI shocks on but have found that the brake lines appear to be threaded through the bracket on the strut and look like they'll need disconnecting and the brakes bleeding once the shocks are swapped. Is this right?

prodriverules 01 November 2011 09:57 PM

That's the 'official' way to do it mate but you can cheat by cutting the bracket with a hacksaw[fine blade] and then bend it over to get the brake pipe out,repeat the process on the new shocks and bend it back into position when done and put the clip back on to hold the pipe in place.:thumb:

r1c 01 November 2011 09:58 PM

I cut a slit in the bracket on the shock, rather than disconnect brake lines. Otherwise yes you need to disconnect the brake pipes

Jay Cartay 01 November 2011 10:01 PM

Thanks guys. I'm on the first one and want to be finished in well under 2 hours so I will be cutting them!

r1c 01 November 2011 10:06 PM

the rear ones are the worst!! i struggle big time with access to the top nuts!! good luck

addi monster 01 November 2011 10:20 PM


Originally Posted by r1c (Post 10310653)
the rear ones are the worst!! i struggle big time with access to the top nuts!! good luck

lol,, 12mm deep reach 3/8 socket does 2 then its the 12mm spanner im affraid for the last 1,,, :norty:

Jay Cartay 01 November 2011 10:43 PM

Well I've just realised that I'm not going to get this done tonight so will put the front wheels back on and leave it until the weekend. I can't figure out how I'm supposed to get to the rear strut tops?!

classicgc8 01 November 2011 10:48 PM

you need to remove the 12mm bolts holding the rear seats in ,including the one in the centre between the lower and upper pieces,
5 bolts in all,two in bottom where your feet would be if you sit in it
one behind you as you are sitting in the midddle of the seat
thinks there is another two once you take out the bottom section of the seat
you can then access the top mounts either side.

addi monster 01 November 2011 10:53 PM


Originally Posted by classicgc8 (Post 10310747)
you need to remove the 12mm bolts holding the rear seats in ,including the one in the centre between the lower and upper pieces,
5 bolts in all,two in bottom where your feet would be if you sit in it
one behind you as you are sitting in the midddle of the seat
thinks there is another two once you take out the bottom section of the seat
you can then access the top mounts either side.

yep, thats spot on, 2 in the foor well, then 3 across the bottom of the back rest, then lift it to release it from the hooks:thumb:

Jay Cartay 02 November 2011 12:12 AM

Thanks guys, that certainly clears that up :)

his-n-her-scoobs 02 November 2011 12:27 AM

I took the oportunity to change to braided Goodridge hoses at the same time. Two birds with one stone.

Plus if your shocks are gone, when was the last time the brake fluid was replaced? Do mine every 1 to 2 years anyway as brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water)

They usually handle much better on fresh shocks (sti or otherwise), but remember to get the camber and tracking set up after disturbing the suspension. Found max allowed front negative camber helped reduce understeer no end. And a touch of front toe in helps prevent scrubbing the inside edges. IMHO of course but I think Prodrive recommend similar. This is for the classic, don't know about the new age.

Good luck and enjoy the improvements




:)

Msgrt 02 November 2011 07:01 AM

Great one.
www.Dragstock.com


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