speedo advise please
#1
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speedo advise please
sorry to do yet another thread but its one thing after another 1998 2ltr non turbo, the speedo as soon as ive pulled of jumps to just over 40mph and stays there 99% of the time until i turn of the engine on the odd time it will just drop back down and start working again for a bit, if i tap the unit it sometimes moves back down a few mm very annoying and plenty of speed cameras where i live
along with the car running like a bag of s**t could this be linked very hard to start especially in the morning not so bad when its warm,juddering at low revs then bamm full power if you hit the pedal down
along with the car running like a bag of s**t could this be linked very hard to start especially in the morning not so bad when its warm,juddering at low revs then bamm full power if you hit the pedal down
#2
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it sounds like your speed control at the gearbox is goosed mate.and your engine is going into safe mode.it stops your engine reveing past 4500 rpm.to test this out.try reveing your engine past 4500 with the car stoped,if it dosent let it rev past 4500.switch off and disconect the batterie and hold your food on brake pedal for 30 sec.this will drain all the power,leave bat off for 30 mins,this will reset your ecu,start engine and try to rev past 4500 now,if it dose its your speed control at your geerbox mate sending out the wrong signals.hope this helps
#3
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it sounds like your speed control at the gearbox is goosed mate.and your engine is going into safe mode.it stops your engine reveing past 4500 rpm.to test this out.try reveing your engine past 4500 with the car stoped,if it dosent let it rev past 4500.switch off and disconect the batterie and hold your food on brake pedal for 30 sec.this will drain all the power,leave bat off for 30 mins,this will reset your ecu,start engine and try to rev past 4500 now,if it dose its your speed control at your geerbox mate sending out the wrong signals.hope this helps
#6
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thanks for the reply mate, is there anyone in or close to notts that could take a proper look without getting stung
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#11
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The white clocks are less than ten minutes to remove, 5 screws. You DO need a stubby posidrive for the two in the upper part of the black surround, though, and a magnetic one is useful for the other three screws, since they are a bit deep in the dash.
Once the screws are out, pull top of instruments towrds you, release the connectors and wriggle the instruments out.
Don't forget to lower the steering wheel before starting and check that you haven't left the parking switch on.
The bulbs that illuminate the instruments are W5W aka 501, good idea to have all of them out and replace the lot, if two have gone, others will follow. AARC, there are 5, or 6.
Once the screws are out, pull top of instruments towrds you, release the connectors and wriggle the instruments out.
Don't forget to lower the steering wheel before starting and check that you haven't left the parking switch on.
The bulbs that illuminate the instruments are W5W aka 501, good idea to have all of them out and replace the lot, if two have gone, others will follow. AARC, there are 5, or 6.
#12
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The white clocks are less than ten minutes to remove, 5 screws. You DO need a stubby posidrive for the two in the upper part of the black surround, though, and a magnetic one is useful for the other three screws, since they are a bit deep in the dash.
Once the screws are out, pull top of instruments towrds you, release the connectors and wriggle the instruments out.
Don't forget to lower the steering wheel before starting and check that you haven't left the parking switch on.
The bulbs that illuminate the instruments are W5W aka 501, good idea to have all of them out and replace the lot, if two have gone, others will follow. AARC, there are 5, or 6.
Once the screws are out, pull top of instruments towrds you, release the connectors and wriggle the instruments out.
Don't forget to lower the steering wheel before starting and check that you haven't left the parking switch on.
The bulbs that illuminate the instruments are W5W aka 501, good idea to have all of them out and replace the lot, if two have gone, others will follow. AARC, there are 5, or 6.
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If the car revs past 4500 it is more likely the cluster itself which is broken.
I believe the sender sends its information to the cluster, which then sends a signal to the ECU.If this signal isn't there the ECU will go into limp mode, and throws an error code.
Seeing this is not happening (revs past 4500, no error messages, at least none mentioned) the error seems to be in the cluster itself.
I believe the sender sends its information to the cluster, which then sends a signal to the ECU.If this signal isn't there the ECU will go into limp mode, and throws an error code.
Seeing this is not happening (revs past 4500, no error messages, at least none mentioned) the error seems to be in the cluster itself.
#16
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If the car revs past 4500 it is more likely the cluster itself which is broken.
I believe the sender sends its information to the cluster, which then sends a signal to the ECU.If this signal isn't there the ECU will go into limp mode, and throws an error code.
Seeing this is not happening (revs past 4500, no error messages, at least none mentioned) the error seems to be in the cluster itself.
I believe the sender sends its information to the cluster, which then sends a signal to the ECU.If this signal isn't there the ECU will go into limp mode, and throws an error code.
Seeing this is not happening (revs past 4500, no error messages, at least none mentioned) the error seems to be in the cluster itself.
ive conected the black plugs turned the igntion on and the engine check light flashes as follows ...
1 x long flash follwed by 2 x short flashes but it does this for ages does this mean there are no errors stored?
#17
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The long flash is the "ten" and the short flash is the "unit". So you have code "12" - which is the starter signal!(?) See here:-
Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions
The "all clear" is represented as on/off flashes, evenly spaced every 0.5secs. See here:-
Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions
The "all clear" is represented as on/off flashes, evenly spaced every 0.5secs. See here:-
Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
#18
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Thread Starter
The long flash is the "ten" and the short flash is the "unit". So you have code "12" - which is the starter signal!(?) See here:-
Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions
The "all clear" is represented as on/off flashes, evenly spaced every 0.5secs. See here:-
Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions
The "all clear" is represented as on/off flashes, evenly spaced every 0.5secs. See here:-
Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
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