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Old 06 October 2011, 05:35 PM
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COBRA666
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Default speedo advise please

sorry to do yet another thread but its one thing after another 1998 2ltr non turbo, the speedo as soon as ive pulled of jumps to just over 40mph and stays there 99% of the time until i turn of the engine on the odd time it will just drop back down and start working again for a bit, if i tap the unit it sometimes moves back down a few mm very annoying and plenty of speed cameras where i live

along with the car running like a bag of s**t could this be linked very hard to start especially in the morning not so bad when its warm,juddering at low revs then bamm full power if you hit the pedal down
Old 06 October 2011, 08:16 PM
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jimmy gee
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it sounds like your speed control at the gearbox is goosed mate.and your engine is going into safe mode.it stops your engine reveing past 4500 rpm.to test this out.try reveing your engine past 4500 with the car stoped,if it dosent let it rev past 4500.switch off and disconect the batterie and hold your food on brake pedal for 30 sec.this will drain all the power,leave bat off for 30 mins,this will reset your ecu,start engine and try to rev past 4500 now,if it dose its your speed control at your geerbox mate sending out the wrong signals.hope this helps
Old 06 October 2011, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmy gee
it sounds like your speed control at the gearbox is goosed mate.and your engine is going into safe mode.it stops your engine reveing past 4500 rpm.to test this out.try reveing your engine past 4500 with the car stoped,if it dosent let it rev past 4500.switch off and disconect the batterie and hold your food on brake pedal for 30 sec.this will drain all the power,leave bat off for 30 mins,this will reset your ecu,start engine and try to rev past 4500 now,if it dose its your speed control at your geerbox mate sending out the wrong signals.hope this helps
thanks for that mate will give it a try tomorow as for the power though its there high end but say pulling of it judders like a bugger and to start it in the morning well it certainly takes some going
Old 07 October 2011, 05:13 PM
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no problems revving past 4500 rpm mate
Old 07 October 2011, 05:25 PM
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Then your speedo problem is either the gearbox sender: (check connections for wear, corrosion etc), or the speedo head: (remove, check connectors and try a known working unit).
Old 07 October 2011, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
Then your speedo problem is either the gearbox sender: (check connections for wear, corrosion etc), or the speedo head: (remove, check connectors and try a known working unit).

thanks for the reply mate, is there anyone in or close to notts that could take a proper look without getting stung
Old 07 October 2011, 05:40 PM
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White clocks or Blue?

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Old 07 October 2011, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by scubbay
White clocks or Blue?
black/white clocks mate the fuel and temp gage dont light up either when the lights are on everything else does though

Last edited by COBRA666; 07 October 2011 at 06:16 PM.
Old 07 October 2011, 08:11 PM
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I have a new speedo unit if you need one. Ł50 delivered 0 miles genuine unit.
Old 07 October 2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by scubbay
I have a new speedo unit if you need one. Ł50 delivered 0 miles genuine unit.
ok thanks need to find out for sure whats going on with it one problem after another
Old 08 October 2011, 12:02 PM
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The white clocks are less than ten minutes to remove, 5 screws. You DO need a stubby posidrive for the two in the upper part of the black surround, though, and a magnetic one is useful for the other three screws, since they are a bit deep in the dash.

Once the screws are out, pull top of instruments towrds you, release the connectors and wriggle the instruments out.

Don't forget to lower the steering wheel before starting and check that you haven't left the parking switch on.

The bulbs that illuminate the instruments are W5W aka 501, good idea to have all of them out and replace the lot, if two have gone, others will follow. AARC, there are 5, or 6.
Old 08 October 2011, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
The white clocks are less than ten minutes to remove, 5 screws. You DO need a stubby posidrive for the two in the upper part of the black surround, though, and a magnetic one is useful for the other three screws, since they are a bit deep in the dash.

Once the screws are out, pull top of instruments towrds you, release the connectors and wriggle the instruments out.

Don't forget to lower the steering wheel before starting and check that you haven't left the parking switch on.

The bulbs that illuminate the instruments are W5W aka 501, good idea to have all of them out and replace the lot, if two have gone, others will follow. AARC, there are 5, or 6.
thanks again, ive been to a garage today for other bits to be looked at and as usual it went straight to 45ish and stayed there so whilst waiting at the lights i started tapping the dash and it starts to move back down until i pull of again and its straight back up to 45 if its 100% the clock unit then il buy yours mate really could do with someone who knows what there looking at taking a butchers,
Old 08 October 2011, 12:57 PM
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this is the style clocks in my car

Old 08 October 2011, 01:10 PM
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the fault is more likely to be the gearbox end.

Last edited by JDM_Stig; 08 October 2011 at 02:53 PM.
Old 08 October 2011, 08:29 PM
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If the car revs past 4500 it is more likely the cluster itself which is broken.

I believe the sender sends its information to the cluster, which then sends a signal to the ECU.If this signal isn't there the ECU will go into limp mode, and throws an error code.
Seeing this is not happening (revs past 4500, no error messages, at least none mentioned) the error seems to be in the cluster itself.
Old 09 October 2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch Scooby lover
If the car revs past 4500 it is more likely the cluster itself which is broken.

I believe the sender sends its information to the cluster, which then sends a signal to the ECU.If this signal isn't there the ECU will go into limp mode, and throws an error code.
Seeing this is not happening (revs past 4500, no error messages, at least none mentioned) the error seems to be in the cluster itself.
thanks for your reply mate ive done a diagnostic

ive conected the black plugs turned the igntion on and the engine check light flashes as follows ...

1 x long flash follwed by 2 x short flashes but it does this for ages does this mean there are no errors stored?
Old 11 October 2011, 06:19 PM
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The long flash is the "ten" and the short flash is the "unit". So you have code "12" - which is the starter signal!(?) See here:-

Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions


The "all clear" is represented as on/off flashes, evenly spaced every 0.5secs. See here:-

Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
Old 11 October 2011, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by joz8968
The long flash is the "ten" and the short flash is the "unit". So you have code "12" - which is the starter signal!(?) See here:-

Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions


The "all clear" is represented as on/off flashes, evenly spaced every 0.5secs. See here:-

Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
thanks, what is the procedure to cure the starter signal got a few other problems with the car that im trying to sort but its one thing after another at the moment
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