SubbyG00n

I have a UK 99 Wagon Turbo. I've not had the car long - a month or 2.
It has an aftermarket downpipe, PPP ECU, Pipercross air filter, Baileys VTA DV and NGK 7s.
I bought it with the d/pipe and nothing else done and each of teh above has been added in the order i wrote with days or weeks inbetween fitting each item. Since buying the car it has been slightly hesitant on occation when going onto boost but not all the time.

After getting the NGK 7s fitted I drove maybe 5miles and it was OK, just the odd bit of slight hesitation. I had put the hesitation down to it not being set up for the mods as I still have an exhaust and up-pipe to fit before I remove my PPP ECU and have the standard ECUteked by Andy Forrest in a couple of weeks. I thought this would solve the problem of the slight hesitation.

Right well above was just some background on the car to hopefully help troubleshoot as I don't even know if this hesitation is related to my current issue...

Here's the problem:
I work away so i've been away for 2 weeks and upon returning home when I first drove the car it will only go up to 3000RPM then when I think boost tries to kick in the car will struggle to get the power and jerk violently if i try and accellerate. It does not want to go above 3000RPM, it will go up a little bit (a few hundred i think) then drop back to 3k then repeat until i come off the accellerator.
This is my first Turbo car so I'm a bit of a n00b when it comes to Turbo issues.
The DV only dumps when i let off the accelerator (it doesn't sort of keep going on and off with the revs going up and down), I don't know if this info is useful, just writing down what i can think of.
It has full Subaru service history until 10k ago and since then a local garage serviced the car once then i serviced the car a few weeks ago.

I'm not sure what the problem is so any suggestions are welcome.
My MOT is due in 2 days so i need to get this sorted ASAP as i'll be away to work again in 3 days!

I'm heading outside now to try and clean the boost solenoid (if i can find it), i don't even know what it does but it sounds like something that could break and cause boost problems. I cleaned the MAF like a month ago when i fitted the air filter. I'm also going to try and look for any split hoses.
Any help is appreciated, cheers!

SubbyG00n

forgot to mention. For the first minute that it was being like this the check engine light was NOT on but after about a minute the check engine light came on.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Well it could be one of several problems, to start with the PPP ecu doesnt like anything outside the ppp mods, especially decat down pipes, then you have the issue of you cleaning the maf, thats a big so I would say you killed that, so now your at the stage of having to remove all the mods and replace the maf to see if that is the issue, or you could try fitting the standard ecu in but it still seems like you have killed one or two sensors, hence your hesitation and reluctance to go beyond 3k rpm.

Tony

SubbyG00n

I'll stick the old ECU on, see if that makes any difference. I can pick up a MAF too and try if that helps... Any other suggestions still welcomed...

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Just try those and replace the dv with the standard one to start with, the standard ecu corrects better than the ppp one so has a bit more "give" in it, but replace the maf for sure, sounds like that could also be an issue, especially if you cleaned it

Tony

arumdevil

if you have no luck with that, this sounds very similar to an issue I had which had it running on 2-3 cylinders (mostly 3 but occasionally 2). My cause turned out to be the cam wheel not straight on the shaft (and messing up the sensor readings). There could well be other reasons for it to run on less than all cylinders.

is the violent jerking like in this video at all?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dd0RCe9y0vs

I'm not sure what they're like on your car, but on the Legacy we have separate coil packs on each plug. I had a situation where the tab that keeps the wiring clipped onto the coil broke and so it didn't keep a good connection, causing it to run on 3. If you've changed the plugs it's worth checking the connections, and also worth checking that the plugs are all screwed in properly as it's tricky to access them and sometimes they feel tight but they're not in all the way (oh er!).

also worth checking each plug for spark.

SubbyG00n

Thanks for suggestion Arumdevil. I don't think it's a problem with the cylinders though as it's smooth up until 3k then it won't go past so i think it's a boost/turbo related issue which could be caused by sensors easily. It's not like on the video. The Jerking is just like accelerating then coming off the pedal then back on really fast. I think cos the ECU is telling the car not to go up past 3k.
If i accelerate really slowly it'll go just past 3k to about 3400rpm before freaking out.

That said though if i'm not driving and just rev the car uuup it sounnds totally fine and will rev smoothly :-s
I've been to scrappies and found 4 scoobies and each one of them had the MAF missing. I've just bought a MAF from Scoobyspares so hopefully that should be here tomorrow or the next day.
I'm gunna go n fit the old ecu now.

Tidgy

to be honest sounds like someone has totaly *******ised it with mods.

needs looking at by someone that knows what there doing to try to find the fault's, i says faults cos i expect theres more than one issue with it.

stedee

iTrader: (4)

you need to check the diagnostic codes, sounds like some kind of sensor issue

SubbyG00n

Ok it's showing a MAF error. Have a MAF on it's way and I'm putting old airbox back on. Just bought a K&N for it too.
I think my MAF cleaning was ok - just sprayed with brake cleaner then left to dry before running the car and i did this like a month ago and it's been ok since until now so i think it may have been the extra vibrations due to my Pipercross filter not being supported better. Hopefully i'll get it sorted tomorrow.

I did put the old ECU on but problems just the same. Hopefully i should get it fixed when the new MAF arrives :-)

arumdevil

make up your own mind:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...sensor-ok.html

SubbyG00n

Yeah reading that people seem to have mixed ideas. I used brake cleaner as i read up on a forum (corsa forum i think) that brake cleaner was the thing to use as long as carb cleaner was avoided. From the looks of the thread on the link there are different kinds of brake cleaner. No opposition to the electronics cleaner stuff so i think i shall use that in future just to make sure.

I was told that the vibration from my Pipercross was the most likely culprit as it was not secured in a bracket.